Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia

Tigray is the farthest northeast state of Ethiopia.  Tigray has a rich history but is best known for the Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia.  This area is a real gem – very few tourists make it to this region so you can often have a whole church to yourselves or only share with a few others. There is no single must-visit church, and many of the churches involve steep hiking and rope climbing to visit.  Others don’t allow women to enter.  Others require use of 4×4 and very able driver.  After seeing the incredible climbs in pictures on the internet, I was seeking out some more accessible Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia and Ethiopian Stone Churches.  I asked a guide in Axum for churches with easy hikes and he gave me these great suggestions as he put it “for fat and old people”.

Here are some of the more interesting, accessible Tigray Churches – accessible for both men and women, and accessible for most physical capabilities.

Getting Around the Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray

Most people start their days in Tigray in Axum (northwestern end of the region) and end in Mekele (southern end), or vice versa.  Both cities have airports and also can connect by road and bus to other destinations in Ethiopia.   The churches I list here are in the order visited starting in Axum and going towards Mekele.

Yeha

This temple, about an hour east of Axum, predated the Christian churches of the Tigray region and is an interesting place to start or end your tour to the accessible Tigray Churches.  The temple is thought to be over 2500 years old.  A museum is being built but was not open in late 2017.  Visiting this church only involves a few staircases.  Entry is 200 ETB ($8).  It is accessed by a gravel road off the main highway through some cute villages.

Mikael Alem Adi Kesho

The cleaver locking mechanism in Mikael Alem Adi Kesho

This church is in a cluster of three Ethiopian stone churches near Teka Tesfai down some mostly rough gravel roads.  Of all the churches visited, this was the most challenging hike, but still wasn’t bad.  It involved about a 100 foot climb up a single sandstone monolith rock.  As sandstone is constantly eroding the walk is quite slippery and it didn’t help that 80 local boys and young men were chasing us yelling “local guide.  You want local guide?”.   We got to the top and entered a gate to the church and my friend cleverly slammed the door shut and held the handle so the few that made it to the top could not enter.  They stood outside exclaiming that they would call the police!

 Once inside the church, the monk will show you how to use the ingenious stick and rope key system to enter the church – wish we got this on video – when we tried we just ended up with tangled rope.  Entry is 150 ETB ($6).

 Mikael Milhaizengi

This church is also in the Teka Tesfai cluster of Ethiopian carved churches.  The church is reached by a few minute hike up a hill. This church is best known for the unique circular dome ceiling.  The monk may also be willing to open the door to the holy place and show you the pages of a 1500-year-old bible – it’s crazy to see a book so old and see it being held by bare hands!  You will need a 4×4 to get to this church, or need to hike over a mile from Mikael Alem Adi Kesho.  It may be better to take a guide – even our driver got lost.  Entry is 150 ETB ($6).

 Wukro Churkos

By far the most accessible of all Ethiopian stone churches, both by transportation and by foot.  This church is on the northeastern outskirts of Wukro.  Located on mostly flat ground, this rectangular church looks like it’s free standing but it’s interesting that it’s actually carved from solid rock.  Entry is 150 ETB ($6).

Abraha We Atsbeha

Abraha We Atsbeha

My favorite of the Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia was Abraha We Atsbeha.  This church is a 45-minute drive on gravel road from the main highway northwest of Wukro, followed by a 5 minute walk up about 100 steps.  Not only is this church architecturally interesting, it had the best murals of all the churches visited.  Make sure you take your time viewing the intricate paintings.  Entry is 200 ETB ($8).

A Few Words and Tips About Visiting the Churches

A 1500-year-old bible in Mikael Milhaizengi

• You must remove your shoes before entering all the Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia, except Yeha.
• Don’t expect all the churches to be open. Sometimes a monk is out doing errands and you might not be able to visit or may have to wait for entry.
• As mentioned above each church has its entry fee of 150 to 200 ETB. It’s wise to ask for a receipt so they don’t ask for you to pay entry again.
• Usually the monk caretaker will also ask you for a tip.
• Almost every Ethiopian carved church came with additional people looking for money – from kids trying to sell you fossils and rocks, boys trying to be your guide, or old men wanting a tip to watch your shoes. We were often asked to pay a “bonus.”

Where to Stay – Click links below to access the booking.com city pages

Note: cities of Ethiopia seem to have multiple spellings.  I found this booking site to have the best selection and rates for Ethiopia.

• Axum – The northern end of the Tigray region. We stayed at the Africa Hotel which was basic, but clean and in a great location.
• Wukro – This is a great mid-way place to stay if visiting the churches for 2 or more days. Most of the hotels were on the main highway but no problem with noise.  Hotels very inexpensive here.
• Agridat – This is another mid-way place to stay on the intersection of the two main highways.
• Mekele – The southern end of the Tigray region.

Guidebook

This book has an incredible amount of info about visiting the various churches in the Tigray region.

Make sure you include the Rock Hewn Churches of Tigray Ethiopia in your Northern Circuit Itinerary.

If you’re in the area, specifically Mekele, make sure you check out the Danakil Depression.

Sharing is caring!