The Dempster Highway is one of those rare roads that still feels like an adventure. Stretching 737 kilometers from Dawson City in Yukon to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories, and then another 138 kilometers to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, it is the only public road in Canada that reaches the Arctic coast.
Driving it is not easy. The surface is mostly gravel, conditions change quickly, and services are scarce. But the rewards are immense: vast tundra landscapes, mountain passes, and the thrill of dipping your toes in the Arctic Ocean after days of remote road. For anyone who loves long road trips, the Dempster is unforgettable.
Starting Point: Dawson City
Most journeys begin in Dawson City, a historic gold rush town with wooden sidewalks and old saloons. It is worth spending a day here before heading north. Stock up on food, water, and extra fuel, as services along the Dempster are limited. Check your spare tire and make sure your vehicle is in good condition.
What the Drive Is Like
From Dawson, the road heads north into the wilderness. The first stretch takes you through boreal forest, with the Ogilvie Mountains rising in the distance. Unlike paved highways, the Dempster demands attention. Gravel sections can be loose, and sharp rocks can damage tires. Weather changes fast, with sudden rain turning dust to mud.
Driving here is about patience. You cover ground slowly, but that is part of the experience. Each bend reveals a new view, from river valleys to ridgelines.
Tombstone Territorial Park
About 50 kilometers from Dawson, you enter Tombstone Territorial Park. This is one of the most beautiful sections of the highway, with jagged peaks, tundra meadows, and plenty of hiking trails. The Tombstone Interpretive Centre offers maps and information. If you have time, a night of camping here lets you experience the midnight sun or, later in the season, the northern lights.
Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle
Halfway to Inuvik, you reach Eagle Plains. It is little more than a service stop, but it has fuel, food, and lodging. This is also where you cross the Arctic Circle. Many travelers stop for a photo at the sign, a milestone on the journey north.
From here, the landscape opens into tundra. Trees grow shorter until they disappear altogether. Caribou and moose sometimes appear along the road, and birds circle over wetlands.
Crossing the Rivers
In summer, you cross two major rivers by ferry: the Peel and the Mackenzie. These government-run ferries are free and operate regularly. In winter, they are replaced by ice roads. Shoulder seasons can be tricky, when ice is forming or breaking up, so plan your trip carefully.
Fort McPherson and Inuvik
Fort McPherson is a Gwich’in community with a rich history. The Lost Patrol gravesite here honors members of the Northwest Mounted Police who perished in the early 1900s. Local craftwork, especially traditional beadwork, is sometimes available.
Further north, you reach Inuvik, the largest town in the region. With shops, hotels, and restaurants, it feels like a hub after days of wilderness. The Igloo Church (Our Lady of Victory) is the town’s most distinctive landmark. Inuvik is also the gateway to the final leg of the drive.
To Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean
Until recently, the road ended in Inuvik. In 2017, the Inuvik–Tuktoyaktuk Highway opened, allowing travelers to reach the Arctic Ocean by road for the first time. The 138-kilometer stretch passes through tundra dotted with pingos, ice-cored hills unique to the region.
Finally, you arrive in Tuktoyaktuk, or Tuk. This Inuvialuit community sits on the edge of the Arctic Ocean. Here you can walk the beach, dip your feet in icy water, and learn about local culture. Some residents offer home-cooked meals or tours of the area. Standing at the ocean’s edge, knowing you drove all the way, is a moment few forget.
Best Time to Go
- Summer (June to August): Long days, milder temperatures, and accessible ferries. Mosquitoes can be intense.
- Autumn (September): Stunning fall colors, cooler air, and fewer insects. Snow may arrive early.
- Winter (November to March): Cold, dark, and challenging, but the northern lights are spectacular. Roads become ice highways.
- Spring (April to May): Melting snow and muddy roads. Not ideal, but possible with preparation.
Most travelers choose summer or early autumn for comfort and safety.
What to Pack
- Extra fuel and at least one spare tire (two recommended)
- Plenty of food and water
- Warm layers, even in summer
- Bug spray and head nets
- Camping gear if staying overnight outside towns
- A camera for the incredible scenery
Cell service is limited outside communities, so consider renting a satellite phone if traveling alone.
Costs
There are no fees to drive the Dempster. Costs come from fuel, accommodation, and supplies. Fuel is more expensive in remote towns. Lodging options include Eagle Plains, Inuvik, and Tuktoyaktuk, as well as campgrounds along the way. Budget $100 to $150 per day if camping, more if relying on hotels.
Challenges and Rewards
The Dempster is not a casual drive. Flat tires, sudden storms, and long distances test both vehicles and travelers. But the rewards are immense. The road takes you into landscapes few people see, with a sense of scale and solitude that is hard to find elsewhere.
Final Thoughts
Driving the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Ocean is one of North America’s great road trips. It requires preparation, patience, and a spirit of adventure, but the payoff is reaching a place that feels like the edge of the world. From the peaks of Tombstone to the tundra of Tuktoyaktuk, the journey is as memorable as the destination.
If you want a road trip that combines wild beauty, cultural encounters, and the thrill of reaching the Arctic Ocean, the Dempster Highway delivers.
