Somaliland is not the first place most people think of when planning a trip to Africa. Officially part of Somalia, it declared independence in 1991 but is still not widely recognized by the international community. Despite this, it operates as a stable, self-governed region with its own currency, borders, and political system.
For travelers willing to go off the beaten path, Somaliland offers unique history, culture, and landscapes. From ancient cave paintings to bustling markets in Hargeisa, it feels like a world apart from the headlines often associated with Somalia.
This guide covers what you need to know about traveling to Somaliland, including how to get there, safety, top attractions, and practical tips.
Why Visit Somaliland?
Traveling to Somaliland is about curiosity and discovery. It is a place where you can:
- Experience an unrecognized nation with its own flag, money, and identity.
- Visit one of Africa’s most important archaeological sites at Laas Geel.
- Explore lively cities like Hargeisa and Berbera without tourist crowds.
- Meet people who are proud of their culture and eager to share their stories.
For adventurous travelers, Somaliland is both challenging and rewarding.
Is Somaliland Safe?
The biggest question travelers ask is about safety. While the rest of Somalia remains unstable, Somaliland is generally safe for foreigners.
- Security: The region has its own police and military. Hargeisa, the capital, is considered safe to walk around during the day.
- Travel permits: Visitors are often required to travel with local guides or have police escorts outside major cities.
- Precautions: Normal travel precautions apply. Avoid discussing politics and respect local customs.
Tourists are still rare, so expect curiosity from locals rather than hostility.
How to Get There
By Air
- Hargeisa Airport (Egal International): The main gateway, with flights from Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), Djibouti, and Dubai.
- Berbera Airport: Smaller, with limited international flights.
By Land
- From Ethiopia: Travelers can cross the border at Wajaale. A Somaliland visa must be arranged in advance, usually from the Somaliland Representative Office in Addis Ababa.
- From Djibouti: Possible by road, though less common for tourists.
Traveling from Somalia (Mogadishu) is not recommended.
Visa Requirements
A visa is required for most nationalities. The easiest ways to obtain one are:
- In Addis Ababa: The Somaliland Representative Office issues visas in one day.
- In Djibouti: Available at the Somaliland mission.
- Online agencies: Some travel operators can arrange visas ahead of time.
The visa is usually valid for 30 days. Passport stamps will say “Somaliland,” not Somalia.
Top Things to Do in Somaliland
Hargeisa
The capital is a chaotic yet friendly city and the best place to start.
- Livestock Market: One of the largest in East Africa, where camels, goats, and sheep are traded daily.
- Central Market: Bustling with colorful fabrics, spices, and everyday goods.
- Independence Monument: A Somali Air Force MiG jet mounted as a memorial to Somaliland’s struggle.
- Local culture: Spend time in tea shops and chat with locals about daily life.
Hargeisa is not polished, but it is full of energy and authenticity.
Laas Geel Cave Paintings
Perhaps the most remarkable site in Somaliland, Laas Geel is home to rock art dating back 5,000 years. The paintings depict cattle, people, and ritual scenes in vivid colors that remain surprisingly well-preserved.
- Location: About 50 km outside Hargeisa
- Access: Requires a guide and a travel permit
- Why visit: It is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Africa and still largely unknown to mass tourism.
Berbera
This port city on the Gulf of Aden has a relaxed, coastal vibe.
- Beaches: Miles of untouched coastline with turquoise waters.
- Colonial architecture: Old Ottoman, British, and Arab buildings line the streets, though many are in ruins.
- Seafood: Fresh and affordable, Berbera is known for excellent fish dishes.
Berbera is also a great place to unwind after Hargeisa’s chaos.
Sheikh Mountains
On the road between Berbera and Hargeisa, the Sheikh Mountains rise above the desert plains. The drive is scenic, with winding roads, cooler air, and stunning views.
Local Markets and Everyday Life
Part of the charm of Somaliland is simply observing daily life. The markets, tea shops, and bus stations provide endless opportunities for cultural immersion.
Travel Logistics
- Currency: Somaliland shilling. US dollars are widely accepted.
- Language: Somali is the main language, though many people also speak Arabic and some English.
- Transport: Shared taxis and minibuses operate between towns. Hiring a driver or guide is often the easiest way for tourists.
- Internet: Mobile data is widely available and cheap, though speeds vary.
Culture and Etiquette
Somaliland is conservative and Islamic. Visitors should respect local customs.
- Dress modestly: Men wear long pants, and women should cover arms, legs, and hair.
- Alcohol: Banned throughout Somaliland.
- Photography: Always ask before taking pictures of people, especially women.
- Hospitality: Guests are treated warmly, but politeness and respect go a long way.
Challenges of Traveling in Somaliland
- Infrastructure: Roads are rough, and accommodation outside cities is basic.
- Tourism services: Few formal tour companies exist, so independent arrangements can be difficult.
- Escorts: Government sometimes requires tourists to travel with police or guides.
- Recognition: Somaliland is not officially recognized, so embassies may not assist in emergencies.
Pros and Cons of Traveling to Somaliland
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Unique, off-the-beaten-path experience | Infrastructure is limited |
| Friendly and curious locals | Travel permits and escorts may be required |
| Important archaeological sites like Laas Geel | Lack of international recognition can complicate support |
| Safe compared to the rest of Somalia | Limited tourism facilities |
Suggested Itinerary
Day 1–2: Explore Hargeisa, markets, and Independence Monument
Day 3: Day trip to Laas Geel
Day 4–5: Travel to Berbera, enjoy beaches and old town
Day 6: Drive through the Sheikh Mountains back to Hargeisa
Day 7: Visit local markets or take a cultural tour before departure
This one-week itinerary gives a balanced introduction to Somaliland’s cities, history, and landscapes.
Conclusion
Traveling to Somaliland is not about luxury or convenience. It is about stepping into a region that has carved out its own identity against the odds. With ancient cave art, vibrant markets, and friendly locals, Somaliland offers a travel experience few others can match.
It is not for everyone. Roads are rough, services are basic, and logistics require patience. But for adventurous travelers seeking authenticity and untold stories, Somaliland is one of the most fascinating destinations in Africa.
FAQs
Is Somaliland different from Somalia?
Yes. Somaliland declared independence in 1991 and operates as a separate entity, though it is not internationally recognized.
Is it safe to travel to Somaliland?
Yes, compared to Somalia, Somaliland is considered stable and safe for tourists, though you may need permits or escorts for certain areas.
How do I get a visa for Somaliland?
Visas are available from Somaliland representative offices in Addis Ababa or Djibouti, usually within one day.
Can I use Somali shillings in Somaliland?
No. Somaliland has its own currency, the Somaliland shilling, though US dollars are widely accepted.
What is the highlight of Somaliland travel?
Most visitors agree Laas Geel’s ancient cave paintings are the top attraction, followed by the markets of Hargeisa and the beaches of Berbera.
