Whittier, Alaska is a strange place. With history as a portage for native people and fur traders, the village started as a military base in world war 2 and is only reachable by boat or car/train via a tunnel. I wasn’t originally planning on visiting Whittier as it involved yet another dead-end drive , it involved the paying of a toll, and I had already visited other beautiful Alaskan coastal towns like Hyder, Haines, Valdez, Seward, and Homer; but a friend from Anchorage said it’s such a beautiful place – I should visit whether I’m taking a glacier cruise or not. The glacier cruises were pricey at nearly $200. So skipping a cruise, I still found plenty of great things to see and do on my day trip from Anchorage to Whittier, AK.
Anchorage to Whittier Drive
Driving from Anchorage to Whittier is only 61 miles, but it could take well over an hour depending if you hit the Whittier Tunnel schedule at the right time. From Anchorage you will head south and east, passing the gorgeous Beluga Point and Girdwood, finally turning east towards Whittier in Portage, AK.
Taking the Whittier Tunnel
The Whittier Tunnel, also called the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, is a single lane 2.5 mile long tunnel, shared by cars, trucks, RVs, and trains. The Whittier Tunnel tolls start at $13 for a car and prices raise from there for larger vehicles with more axles. Generally, the tunnel is open for entry for 15 minutes each way, once each hour. The tunnel is closed overnight. So do check the schedule before you go, as you may have to wait up to 45 minutes if you arrive at the wrong time. If you do get stuck on the west side, you can check out the US parks visitor center at the Portage Glacier lake. While you can no longer see the glacier, they have exhibits and toilets.
The Whittier Barracks
At a population of only around 200 people, Whittier is a really small town. The town is dominated by two huge WWII barracks. One is in use as the main living and shopping center of the town. The other is a hulking abandoned building. It’s not possible to visit this dangerous abandoned building, it’s heavily fenced and lots of “no trespassing” signs. For a great opportunity to visit abandoned buildings, there’s no place more fascinating than Pripyat city in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.
Glacier Viewing From Whittier Without a Cruise
One of the main reasons to go from Anchorage to Whittier is to take a glacier cruise, but with parking and taxes, this can cost upwards of $200 for a 7-hour tour. The glacier and wildlife cruises in Valdez and Seward tend to be better value, with free parking and longer time on the sea. There are several glacier views you can see from Whittier town and from viewpoints along Shotgun Cove Trail Road to the east of town.
Byron Glacier Hike
Either on your way to or from Whittier, you should definitely stop to do the Byron Glacier Hike, just a couple miles west of the western entrance to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. This flat, easy hike has great views and ends at the snow bank below the Byron Glacier – there was still melting snow during my visit in early August.
Staying Longer Than a Day? Where to Stay in Whittier
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There are only a couple places to stay in Whittier, and none are available on booking. There is one municipal campground, they don’t look friendly on free camping on the Whittier side of the tunnel. Another alternative is to stay in Girdwood, with nearly as nice views as Whittier, you’re not “stuck” by the tunnel. (Check Rates and Availability in Girdwood).
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