Weird Things to See in North Dakota (World’s Largest “fill in the blank” and a Famous Woodchipper)

North Dakota is not packed with traditional attractions.  There’s one national park, a bunch of recreation lakes and reservoirs, and historical sites from the time of the Lewis & Clark expedition and the western expansion.  To bring tourists, various towns created their own attractions and claims to fame.  Luckily for travelers of Interstate 94, all of these Weird Things to See in North Dakota are along Interstate I-94 and have been listed from west to east.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Nothing weird about this place, except for the unusual rock formations and unusually high concentration of wild animals.  Theo Roosevelt National Park is a must see.

 The Enchanted Highway

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota
Grasshoppers in the Field

The Enchanted Highway is the world’s largest collection of scrap metal sculptures, stretched along a 32-mile stretch of road off exit 72 of I-94.  Read more about it here.

 World’s Largest Cow

Weird Things to See in North Dakota
World’s Largest Cow – Salem Sue

The “world’s largest cow” is a Holstein cow statue on the hill at New Salem, overlooking the fields and Interstate I-94.  Her name is Salem Sue and she’s 50 feet long.  Exit I-94 at New Salem (exit 127), head south, and turn right where you see the sign for Sue.  Here you can take the grave drive up the base of Sue.  Donations accepted.

 Worlds’ Largest Sandhill Crane

Weird Things to See in North Dakota
World’s Largest Sandhill Crane

A quick pull off from exit 200 of I-94 to the edge of Steele, ND will allow you to see the World’s Largest Sandhill Crane.  As you exit the freeway, go south towards the town and an immediate left behind the motel.  There’s a small parking lot to view the statue.

 World’s Largest Buffalo & Albino Buffalo

Weird Things to See in North Dakota
World’s Largest Buffalo

There are many billboards across North Dakota to see the live albino buffalo and world’s largest buffalo in Jamestown, North Dakota (exit 258).  Follow the signs to Pioneer Village/Buffalo Museum. The world’s largest is yet another cement statue of a bison, on a ridge overlooking the buffalo pen.  In late Spring, the live bison, including the albino, were no where to be seen.  Entrance to the view point and statue are through the Jamestown Pioneer Village. Pioneer Village looks really cute, with several museums and shops, but was closed when I visited in the late afternoon.

 World Famous “Fargo” Movie Wood Chipper

Weird Things to See in North Dakota
Fargo Woodchipper

It’s difficult to believe the movie Fargo is more than 20 years ago – it’s one of my favorite movies of all time and especially funny since I was born and raised in Minnesota.  The Fargo/Moorhead visitor center did something brilliant – they purchased the original woodchipper and made it a tourist attraction.   You can even borrow a hat for your photos! This visitor center is great – Fargo movie memorabilia, free wi-fi, clean restrooms, free coffee and popcorn.  Like other visitor centers, they have a wide selection of travel brochures and magazines for Fargo and surrounds.  Complete a survey and get a free gift (I scored an iron-on Fargo Woodchipper patch).  The visitor center is at exit 348.

Can you believe it was the Fargo film’s 20th anniversary last year?  Buy the limited edition Blu-Ray edition of one of my favorite movies.

Weird Things to See in North Dakota – Stay

Interstate I-94 has many exits that state “no services”.  Check Availability & Rates for some of the better selection locations:

West North Dakota – Dickinson

Central North Dakota – Bismarck (the capital)

East North Dakota – Fargo

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The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota (World’s Largest Scrap Metal Sculptures)

If driving across I-94 in North Dakota, you MUST take exit 72 and do the 64-mile round trip down to Regent, so you can see all the art work of the Enchanted Highway.  The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota is the world’s largest collection of scrap metal sculptures and one of the top reasons why you should visit North Dakota.  It was built starting in the 1990’s to attract tourists to the small town of Regent, North Dakota.  You’re probably already nearby if you’re visiting Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Each statue has a large parking area and small picnic area.  Donations are accepted for upkeep and future statues, although no new statues have been completed in many years.  There are many signs on I-94 advertising this tourist destination.

Statue #1 – Geese in Flight

Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Geese in Flight

Mile 0.0 – this 2-D radiant eye with flying geese is the first statue you will see when you get off exit 72.  It’s

located on the north end of the interchange and all miles below are measured from this point.

 Statue #2 – Cell Tower

Mile 0.1.  Just kidding!  This isn’t one of the statues, but I fooled you, huh?

 Statue #2 – Deer Crossing

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Deer Crossing

Mile 2.9.  Another 2-D statue of a couple deer leaping over a fence.  There’s a metal labyrinth here if you want to play and stretch your legs.

 Bank Lefor

Mile 13.8.  The remainder of the old Lefor bank still can be seen just off the Enchanted Highway.

 Statue #3 – Grasshoppers in the Field

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Grasshoppers in the Field

Mile 15.2.  One of my two favorite statues – one huge grasshopper and several babies.  Put yourself in the shoes of a grasshopper and feel what it’s like to be dwarfed by the creature!  There’s a small playground here, but watch for falling blades of wheat.  Notice the fence – many of the statues have a fence that follows the theme of the statue – here it is a metal fence shaped like wheat.

 Statue #4 – Fisherman’s Dream

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Fisherman’s Dream

Mile 19.9.  This was my other favorite statue.  One giant northern pike, other fish, a boat, and other things you might see in a lake.  The fence here is blue waves.  Several of these statues are also starting to fall – the more intricate, the more rusting and breakable.

 Statue #5 – Pheasants in the Prairie

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Pheasants in the Prairie

Mile 24.4.  A whole Pheasant family welcomes you.  Ironically, I saw two male pheasants on the road immediately next to this statue.

 Black Butte Marker

Mile 25.5.  Black Butte was a famous sight on the stage coach trail.  It was said to be called black butte because at sunset, the silhouette of the butte is black.

 Statue #6 – Teddy Rides Again

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Teddy Rides Again

Mile 26.6.  At first I noticed a man on a horse but upon a closer look, realized it was a depiction of Theodore Roosevelt, who owned a ranch in the area of North Dakota that is now Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

There’s also an old stagecoach at this stop.

 Statue #7 – Tin Family

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Tin Family

Mile 30.1.  Here is the farm family – dad with the pitchfork, mom with the basket, and the boy with a pink lollipop.

 Statue #8 – Whirly Gigs

The Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota

Whirly Gigs

Mile 32.0.  In town, there’s a statue outside the gift shop.  Make sure you press the big green button to watch the whirly gigs move:

  • Dad rocking in his chair
  • Woman rolling dough in the kitchen
  • Kids jumping on the bed
  • Momma bathing the two twins.

 

Enchanted Highway Gift Shop

Mile 32.0.  This gift shop was closed on my Sunday noon visit in April, but in summer you can buy Enchanted Highway themed gifts and ice cream!

 Enchanted Castle Hotel

Mile 32.4.  The most recent addition to the Enchanted Highway, a castle themed hotel and restaurant in town is the last stop on the Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota.  There’s a start of a statue grave yard in the adjacent school grounds.

 Photographing the Statues

I would recommend visiting in the late afternoon.  Although half of the statues are facing east, and half west, the light would be very nice at this time.  Unfortunately, my visit was in the middle of the day and the lighting really wasn’t good for any of the statues.

What Else to Watch For

Watch the fields for cool deserted farms, deer, pheasants, and antelope.

Enchanted Highway Regent North Dakota – Stay

If the Enchanted Castel Hotel is closed, or you want to stay on the Interstate, there are many decent hotels in Dickinson – Check Rates and Availability.

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What It’s Like to Camp at Walmart

You may have seen I’ve been making my way across the USA lately.  This is normally incredibly expensive as a solo traveler due to accommodation costs, but I found a better, cheaper way to do it.  In January, I bought a Ford Transit Connect cargo van.  It looks a lot like a minivan but besides the 2 seats in the front, the back is completely empty (except the metal walls, ceiling, and padded black vinyl flooring).  So, I set up a bed and got some essential gear (plates and cups, a towel, camp chair, flashlights, etc) and hit the road, trying to camp for free or inexpensive campgrounds!  While I prefer to stay at a campground in the countryside – like a state or national park, a national forest, a lake, etc, sometimes these aren’t closely available for the activities you have planned that day.  In Great Falls, Montana, I had evening plans to hang out at one of the world’s only mermaid bars, so I wanted a place to stay near the city.  Many Walmart stores allow free overnight parking, so I decided to give it a try – this is What It’s Like to Camp at Walmart…or more specifically, What It’s Like to Van Camp at Walmart

Make Sure You Can Camp There

Not all Walmart stores allow overnight camping.  Some cities have regulations against it.  Other Walmarts have been pressured by local campgrounds, KOA’s, etc. to close access for overnight parkers.  There are several websites that report what Walmarts don’t allow camping, but when in doubt, ask a manager or security guard.

 Park on the Perimeter

Walmart doesn’t want you taking a parking spot close to the store – this is reserved for customers.  The preferred spots for overnight Walmart RV parking is along the perimeter of the parking lot or on the side of the store.  I parked towards the end of one row, under one of the street lights for safety.

 Your Fellow Campers

What It’s Like to Van Camp at WalmartI saw about 20 other vehicles that may have been camping that night, but I didn’t see another person coming in or out of any of them or evidence of any light.  Some of the RVs looked pretty rough, so I’m not sure if they were occupied or not.

 Toilets

The problem with drinking beer just before bedtime is obvious.  I woke up at 3am and really had to go to the bathroom so I was lucky this was a 24-hour store.  I put on my jacket (it was only about 40 degrees that night) and headed towards the store, still wearing my patterned purple pajama pants.  I hauled past the security guard as I entered and felt good to relieve myself.  As I exited, the cute security guard smiled and said “have a good night.”  I mumbled “See you in the morning”.

Paranoia, Paranoia Everybody’s Trying to Get Me

There wasn’t a lot of noise in the parking lot with one exception… a large tow truck with its parking lights on was idling ALL NIGHT LONG.  I’m not sure what he was up to, but I was a little worried I might find myself being towed away in my pajamas in the middle of the night.  But he just sat there running his engine.  Needless to say, I didn’t get towed, but I had a bit of paranoia.

I didn’t catch anyone else peeking in overnight, but I recommend putting up curtains (I didn’t have curtains at the time, so I used a bath towel and binder clips to black out the back window).  Binder clips like these are incredibly useful for van camping:

Morning Shopping Trip

I woke up and got changed into my street clothes.  I put my comb, toothpaste, and toothbrush in my purse and headed inside to freshen up.  Then I did my morning shopping – bought some groceries for the day and stopped into the gun section to buy some bear spray as I’d be camping and hiking in national parks.  The guys in the gun section were so nice! 

What It’s Like to Van Camp at Walmart – The Verdict

I’d prefer to camp like this… the Deschutes River in Oregon

Camping at Walmart isn’t my first choice, but I’d consider doing it again.  I’d definitely stay at a 24-hour store or if at a limited hour store, make sure I don’t drink before bed and use the toilet shortly before closing time.  I’d also sleep in some black yoga pants rather than pajama bottoms if I needed to make a quick stop in the store in the middle of the night.  I also feel safer now that I have pepper spray.


 

Have you ever been camping at Walmart?  Leave a comment about your experience below.

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Best Things to Do on Highway 2 in Montana (All 667 miles of it!)

Highway US-2 across Montana is one of the longest roads across a single state in the USA.  It travels an entire time zone!  Also known as the Roosevelt Highway, I traveled all 667 miles to find the best Things to Do on Highway 2 in Montana, as listed from west to east of this epic Montana Road Trip:

Best Attractions on Highway 2 Montana:

Wildlife

There is a ridiculous amount of wildlife in this western part of Montana.  After driving all day across Washington and Idaho, I hadn’t seen a single wild animal, but the minute I crossed the border into Montana I saw a deer in the road.  For the next 50 miles, I managed to see 6 herds of elk, a dozen wild turkeys. 4 bighorn sheep, and a few hundred deer.  Watch your speed!

 Kootenai Falls

Kootenai Falls Things to Do on Highway 2 in Montana
Things to Do on Highway 2 in Montan

Kootenai Falls is a free, must visit stop.  There’s a easy to moderate hike across the railroad track with two forks – one to the falls (a giant rapids, really) and one to the suspension bridge.  You can’t miss the big parking lot off the north side of the road, around mile marker 21.

 Huge Paul Bunyan Pan – Heritage Museum, Libby

Paul Bunyan Pan – Heritage Museum, Libby

There are loads of historical museums in all the little county seats across the state of Montana, but the Heritage Museum in Libby is one of the better ones.  Make sure you check out Paul Bunyan’s giant frying pan out back.  The Museum is located on the east side of town.

 Stay – Libby

Libby is the best place to stay in far western Montana.  Check Rates and Availability at booking.com.

 Loon Lake

Loon Lake

Mile marker 69 is the location of the beautiful Loon Lake.  This is the first of a chain of Thompson Lakes but Loon Lake is the only one that has ample room to view and pull off the road.  The other Thompson Lakes are off the highway and require fees for day use or camping.   Loon Lake is true to its name – a single loon was making it’s morning swim on the day I visited.

 Montana Vortex

Montana Vortex is one of those places where you can witness all sorts of cool things.  It’s located 2 miles east of Columbia Falls.  More details about Montana Vortex here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hungry Horse Dam

Glory Hole
Hungry Horse Dam

A 4 mile detour off of highway US-2, just east of Hungry Horse town, is the Hungry Horse Dam.  It’s possible to walk or drive over the top of the dam and view the famous “glory hole”.  The visitor center is open in the summertime.

 

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is the quintessential attraction on highway US-2.  Learn more about a spring visit here.  If visiting Glacier and not camping, I recommend staying in West Glacier or East Glacier.  From Glacier, enjoy the views of the Rockies all the way to Shelby.

Cut Bank Penguin

things to do on highway 2 Montana
Cut Bank Penguin

This giant cement penguin on the westbound lanes of US-2, near the eastern border of town claims that Cut Bank is the coldest place in the nation but google search tells me it’s not even in the top ten coldest!

Stay – Shelby

Shelby is the best place to stay in far central Montana.  Check Rates and Availability at booking.com.

Detour South: Great Falls

From Shelby, it’s well worth the 1 hour, 20 minute drive down I-15 to Great Falls – so much history of Lewis & Clark, and location of the only mermaid bar I know.  Find more info on Great Falls here.

Farming Communities

There are many small towns along highway 2 with exotic names like Zurich, Dunkirk, Malta, and Kremlin, but like much of main street America, they are home to too many failed dreams – deserted motor hotels, shops, restaurants.  But the people are so nice and they continue on. Farming is key, and you can see this in the large grain elevators along the railway that parallels highway US-2 across most of the state.

Train Stations

A couple years ago, I traveled this same route by Amtrak If you’re driving, you can still check out some of the historic train stations on the tracks that parallel highway 2 Montana for most of the width of the state.

 Havre Beneath the Streets

One of the biggest surprises in Montana was this fascinating tour in the center of the state that takes you to an underground city.  More details about Havre Beneath the Streets here.

 Where to Stay – Malta

Malta is the best place to stay in eastern Montana.  Check Rates and Availability.

Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge

Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge
American Avocet

Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge is a great place for birders, and includes a 15 mile circular road around the Bowdoin Lakes.  Road to the refuge is located 1 mile east of Malta.

 Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

The biggest highlight of eastern Montana is the Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, located halfway between Malta and Saco, MT.  This newly remodeled resort and campground is a real gem.  Also check out the Sleeping Buffalo Rock and sunset at Nelson Reservoir when you’re in the area.  More details about Sleeping Buffalo here.

 Glasgow Animals

Glasglow Montana Dinosaur

There are a dozen animals that reside atop the hills outside Glasgow, MT.  Most are dinosaurs, but there are a few locally founds animals like an eagle and bighorn sheep.  The metal statues are located about a mile west of Glasgow on Highway 2. 

Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site

Fort Union Trading Post
Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site

Fort Union is a historic trading post on the Missouri River.  This park is free and they can provide you with info if you’re on your way to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  The best way to get here is to cross the Montana – North Dakota Border on US-2 and turn right on county 5 in North Dakota.  Follow the signs.  The unique thing about this park is the driveway is in Montana and the building is in North Dakota, so you change time zones between the entrance and the visitor center!

Are there any other best things to do on highway 2 Montana you’d like suggest to do?  Or other favorite Montana road trips?  Leave your note in the comments below!


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Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs (a Soak and a Sunset)

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs outside of Saco Montana is an oasis in northeast Montana for two reasons:

  1. There just isn’t much to do and see in northeast Montana. The area is mostly wheat fields, oil pumps, and little towns.
  2. Montana is famous for its hot springs such as Bozeman or Chico Hot Springs. But if you map the hot springs you will see that all of them except Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs is located to the north and west of Yellowstone park (a volcanic hot bed – pun intended!).  Sleeping Buffalo is all by itself (cue the Eric Carmen hit “All by myself…don’t want to be…).

There are a couple other things to see within a mile of the hot springs, so this is a fun place to stop for a night or two of soaking and sunsets…

Sleeping Buffalo Rock

Sleeping Buffalo Rock

There are two old rocks, shaped like sleeping buffaloes, under protective cover.  These rocks used to sit on the top of hills and fool many-a Native American.  They even carved features of the buffalo (bison) in the rock.  At one point it was determined the carved rocks should be protected from the elements, so they were moved to the nearby town of Malta.  But the rocks were determined as “restless” so they were moved to this more appropriate place.   People leave small gifts, like cigarettes and coins, at this sacred site.  The Sleeping Buffalo Rock & marker is located in the pull off at the junction of US-2 and the road to Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs.

 Roosevelt Highway Marker

There are many historical markers along highway US-2 in Montana, but this one indicates the history of the road and why the highway is also known as Roosevelt highway.  Marker is also located in the pull off at the junction of US-2 and the road to Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs.

 Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

The swimming pool at Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

Only one mile off Highway 2  in Montana is the Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs and Resort.

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs is A*M*A*Z*I*N*G.  Its one of the best hot springs in Montana.  There are three indoor tubs/pools at Sleeping Buffalo:

  • the large one is a perfect temperature for swimming,
  • the medium one is a hot tub with a perfect temperature for soaking,
  • the small one, that I first though was a kiddie pool, is 46 degrees! Brrr…  If you want to play a trick on your friends or family, tell them to jump into the kiddie pool.

The Springs also include use of a lovely locker room and sauna.  There’s loads of loungers and tables around the pool so you could spend the whole day here if you want to relax.  They sell snacks and pizza at the front desk if you need a bite to eat.

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs Rates

Cost per day visit is $9.50 or included if you spend the night at the resort.

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

The hot tub at Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs

 Nelson Reservoir

Nelson Reservoir Sunset

Only 1 mile north of the hot springs is a park and picnic area of Nelson Reservoir.  This park is managed by the Bureau of Reclamation (have you heard of them?).  The dam & reservoir are a wonderful place for recreation in the summer.  But in my spring visit, most of the lake was frozen but the water birds, meadowlarks, and coyotes were singing in chorus.  Nelson Reservoir is known for it’s spectacular sunsets and I was not disappointed on my visit.  It is possible to camp for free in this small park even though signs are not posted except inside the pit toilet).

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs – Where to Stay 

There isn’t a lot of choice around here.  An obvious choice would be to stay at the newly renovated Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs Resort.  In summertime it’s also possible to stay at Sleeping Buffalo Campground.

If that’s full or if you’re heading west, it’s only 20 miles to Malta, home of the very nice Country Inn (Check Rates and Availability)

 

 

 

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Havre Beneath the Streets Tour (The City That Went Underground)

Living in Seattle, I love the history of Seattle Underground.  While researching my trip across highway US-2, I was surprised to find out there is a similar underground city in the middle of Montana!  It’s called Havre Beneath the Streets Tour.

The History

Havre, Montana is a remote, windy town that started in 1893 as a result of James Hill selecting a midway point for his railroad between Seattle and Minneapolis.  In 1904, when a bar patron wanted revenge, he started a fire to burn the bar, but the wind spread the fire and soon 4 city blocks had burn down!  Back in those days, insurance wasn’t so common, and the townsfolk didn’t have money to rebuild right away.  But what they did have was basement storage rooms and passages in between, so an underground village began.  A portion of the city remained underground for a number of years until the city above could be rebuilt.

 The Bar

Underground BarEven the bar that burned down decided to go underground.  The wooden bar that sits on two large barrels is likely the original, as the wooden plank was discovered in a storage room by the historical society.  Check out the tables… you can see the cigar burns still there.

The Butcher Shop

The Butcher’s occupies a large portion of the underground and there are some photos that document the days underground.

 The Bakery

Check out the flimsy glass doors of the bakery.  It’s clear to see security wasn’t such a problem in the olden days.  If you’re nice, the guide might offer you a sweet treat.

 The Pharmacy

Read the bottles of the pharmacy carefully… you might see some cocaine or heroin which was legal in the early 1900’s.

The Brothel

Havre Beneath the Streets Tour

Brothel, notice how close the numbers 4 and 5 are painted on the wall

In the current decorated form, with its fancy bedding and ladies’ accessories, the brothel doesn’t look so bad.  But you can see the reality painted on the walls… 28 sections marked by original numbers on the wall.  From the space allotted, it’s clear that the beds couldn’t have been wider than a hospital gurney, separated by curtains.  It’s sad that human trafficking goes back longer than we can imagine.

 The Chinese Laundry

Havre Chinese LaundryChinese people often worked on the railway and others would open restaurants and laundries.  Mannequins in the laundry show what it might have looked like in the early 1900’s

 The Opium Den

This is one of the last stops on the tour, a dark walk-in-closet-size room off the side of the Chinese Laundry – the opium den.  Of all the rooms in the Underground, this room is the most haunted – visitors sometimes have strange feelings or photograph orbs in this dark room.  The mannequins lying in a stupor in the bunk beds make this room even more chilling.

Visiting Havre Beneath The Streets

The one-hour tour operates year-round but has limited hours in the winter.  Guided tour admission is $17 in 2018.  The money goes for operation and preservation costs.

Things to See Above Ground

James Hill Statue, Havre Train Station

The Havre Beneath The Streets tour starts at the railroad museum, so make sure you check this out.  Havre has a cute downtown.  Within a block of the underground, you can check out the oldest bar in Montana and head over to the train station to see the James Hill statue.  Shop at some of the locally owned shops, like the western wear store.

Havre Beneath The Streets Tour – Where to Stay

Havre is a university town of nearly 10,000 residents so the selection of restaurants and hotels is ample (Check Rates & Availability).

Havre Beneath the Streets Tour Review

I HIGHLY recommend this tour.  The history is so fascinating – it’s an unusual find in a place you wouldn’t expect.  If you find yourself in Glacier National Park or Great Falls, consider a detour to Havre.

 

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Best Things to Do in Great Falls Montana (Lewis & Clark & Mermaids?)

The land around Great Falls, MT marks the location of one of the significant events in the Lewis & Clark expedition – the great portage.  Boating up the Missouri River was an effective way to move west until they came upon not one, but five waterfalls in an 18-mile section of river that’s now known as Great Falls.  It took the crew a full month to portage the large boats the 18-miles and was one of the most physically and mentally challenging events of the Lewis & Clark trail.  There are a few fun and unique things to do in this friendly town.  The following are the best things to do in Great Falls:

Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center

Best Things to do in Great Falls

Great Falls Portage

There are many Lewis & Clark Interpretive Centers in the west USA, but this might be one of the best.  From life-size depictions of the portage, to identifying the animal pelts that were commonly traded.  You can also dress up in clothing common to the time and get as many photos as you want.  The absolute cutest addition to this interpretive center is the very cute Newfoundland dog to signify Seaman, Merriweather Lewis’ Newfie that made the journey.

Volunteers man this center and are a wealth of information about the area.  They show several videos in their huge auditorium – don’t miss the Ken Burn’s film and the locally taped film about the portage.

Entry is $8 per person, but if you have the annual or senior National Park Pass, you can get free entry.

The Adorable Seaman

Waterfalls

Only 4 of the 5 waterfalls portaged by the Lewis & Clark expedition still exist today, and the remainder are very altered due to dams.  The 5th waterfall is completely submerged by the damming.  There is still beauty in the falls, but over half of each has been claimed for power generation.  You can close your eyes and imagine what these might have looked like in the days that Lewis & Clark visited over 200 years ago.  3 of the 4 falls are in or adjacent to the town.  Only “Great Falls” is located about 7 miles out of town.  If you visit between Mother’s Day & Labor Day, there is better viewing from Ryan Island Picnic Park.  Pick up maps at the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center to learn more.

 River Walk

There is a fine area to walk or bike along the Missouri river near the historic downtown.  Watch out for water birds such as geese, ducks, and even loons!

 Morony Natorium

After van camping for a couple nights, I was in the mood for a shower.  I prefer going to hot springs or pools and this is a great indoor pool if you don’t have one at your hotel.  For a tiny entrance fee of $4, I got use of locker room, open swim time, and a water aerobics class with some of the friendliest ladies you’d ever meet.  It was extra fun to swim knowing I’d be seeing a mermaid later this night…

Sip n Dip

If you regularly read my blog, you might already know that I like to visit offbeat destinations… Like the Spam Museum, or Montana Vortex, or the Danakil Depression, so when one of my coworkers told me about the Sip n Dip bar, I HAD to go!  The Sip n Dip is a tiki bar located in a retro motor hotel (the O’ Haire Motor Inn) in downtown Great Falls.  The back of the bar opens to a picture window to the bottom part of the hotel pool.  Many days per week, there’s a mermaid swimming for tips from 6pm – 10pm.  Tuesday is ladies night, and then you can see the merman!  Who would think the middle of Montana would be home to so many mermaids?  Make sure you check the Sip n Dip Calendar, the mermaids and Piano Pat don’t entertain every night.

Best Things to do in Great Falls

Sip n Dip Mermaid

On top of the mermaid show, four nights a week you can also hear the 80-something “Piano Pat” sing a mixture of country and rock hits.  She’s been playing here since 1963!  Her musical stylings don’t always make a song recognizable, but if you listen carefully you might hear a song from Jimmy Buffett or Billy Joel or Toby Keith.

Tip Jar

Piano Pat

If you’re not travelling solo like I was, order a “fish bowl” drink to share with your friends – a tropical drinks with 10 shots in a fishbowl glass with as many straws as you need to share.

The barkeep might tell you some stories – about skinny dippers or the time a couple got really frisky in the pool and then came down to the bar for a drink and a surprising round of applause.  Day swimmers in the pool aren’t aware the pool window exists unless they dive and take a look!

 Things to do in Great Falls – Stay

There are a couple dozen hotels in the Great Falls Area.  Check the Rates and Availability at booking.

Getting There

Great Falls is only a few hours away from your visit to Glacier National Park.

 

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Montana Vortex and House of Mystery (Things are not what they seem)

Montana Vortex and House of Mystery  Montana is one of the few “mystery spots” around the western US…where things are not what they might seem… marbles roll uphill, you move from one end to another of a level, short plank and gain or lose 6 inches, blurry shadows, trees that grow in a spiral, but only within each “vortex” on the grounds. The other vortexes in the western US are:
• Mystery Spot in Santa Cruz, CA
• Oregon Vortex in Gold Hill, OR
• Cosmos Mystery Area, Rapid City, SD
• Confusion Hill, Piercy, CA

There are 3 overlapping vortexes on the ground of Montana Vortex and House of Mystery. Strange things happen when you cross the border of one of the vortexes.

The Visit

Each visit to the Montana Vortex includes a guided tour of the best sites plus extra self-guided time around the grounds.

How to Have a Growth Spurt (or “Shrinkage”)

The coolest effect is standing on a level ground (you get to check with a construction level tool), and gaining or losing about 6 inches depending on what side of the vortex border you’re standing on. Look at these pictures and see the height differences! (thanks to my models – the Hausers, owners of the Vortex).

Montana Vortex and House of Mystery

House of Mystery

My other favorite attraction at the Vortex is the House of Mystery. You can stand in this crooked house and try some different experiments – balance a broom on the crooked floor, lift an impossibly heavy weight, try to climb a ladder. There’s loads of fun in this one-room house and they give you some free time at the end of the tour to play around more. If you take photos with a flash, you may be lucky to capture orbs in your photos – orbs are common on the vortex grounds.

I witnessed Joe take this broom from leaning on the wall to standing upright on the floor!

Mysterious Trees

The energy in the vortex will make all of the trees out of whack in a certain area.  At first I thought all the snow in the winter makes all the trees crooked, but then discovered that the trees outside the vortex were perfectly straight.

Gift Shop

The Columbia Vortex has one of the best gift shops in western Montana – a huge selection of cool rocks and semi-precious stones.

Montana Vortex Gift Shop

 

Operating times & Entry Fees

The Vortex is open April – October each year (Call ahead if visiting in April or October – late or early snow may impact opening days.) Entry fee in 2018 is $12 for adults and $8 for children.  Visit their website here.

Montana Vortex Review

The Vortex is a great stop before or after visiting Glacier National Park. Kids and people who like mysterious and different attractions will especially love it!  It’s one of the fun attractions in Montana and one of the best attractions on Highway 2 Montana.

Montana Vortex and House of Mystery – Where to Stay

The Vortex is located 2 miles east of Columbia Falls on highway US-2. There are loads of dining and accommodation choices in Columbia Falls (Check Rates and Availability).

 

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Glacier National Park in the Spring (No Glaciers but Plenty of Snow)

Glacier National Park in Montana is one of the USA’s most prestigious national parks.  It’s a favorite park for some of my friends.  In the summertime, it is a view, hike, and wildlife extravaganza but Glacier National Park in the Spring is another story – still some good views but massive closures too.

Apgar Village

Apgar is a village inside the park on the west side of Going to the Sun Road.  There are several shops and restaurants here, but they were literally shoveling out from under the snow.   Apgar is home to the only Visitor Center that’s open in the spring, but it’s only open on weekends.  I visited on a very sunny, very busy Monday afternoon and was shocked it wasn’t open – surely the income from the gift shop might have paid the opening costs?

 Lake McDonald

In the spring, if you’re not hiking or biking or skiing further afield, Lake McDonald is the attraction.  The lake wasn’t open to boating and it’s way too cold to swim (near freezing, with patches of ice present), but it’s beauty is undeniable.  Make sure you walk on one of the red rock beaches.  The colors of the rocks on the

floor of the lake are unique.

 Two Medicine & Many Glaciers

The entry roads to these two portions of the east side of the park will likely be open if you visit in the spring, but will dead-end well before the parking and visitor centers.  It is possible to hike or bike in, as the road looked clear beyond the closure gate.  

St. Mary

St. Mary’s Lake

The St. Mary (east) entrance of the Going to the Sun Road is open, but only for the first few miles along the St. Mary lake.  The lake was still frozen in late April.  The views from this side of the park are especially good in the Spring as the mountains are completely covered in snow – the summer view is of tree covered mountains.

 Entry Fee

Entry for Glacier National Park in the spring is $20 for 7 days.  This is incredibly high considering the small part of the park that’s accessible.  If you’re visiting other parks in the coming year, consider purchasing the $80 pass good for all parks for a full year.

Wildlife

Glacier National Park in the Spring
Butterfly at Lake McDonald

I’ve visited in the summer and the wildlife is spectacular – I viewed bears, mountain goats, moose, marmot, big horn sheep, and even a wolverine!  In the spring, some animals are still hibernating, or they are located further inside the park.  On this visit, I only saw a few deer and butterflies, but it was cool to have a butterfly land on me while enjoying the sun at the lake.

Glacier National Park in the Spring – Stay:

 Most of the lodges and all of the non-park campgrounds are closed until tourist season – late May or even June.  There are some hotels open in East Glacier (check rates and availability), West Glacier (check rates and availability), and further west at Columbia Falls (check rates and availability).

The only campgrounds open in the park are Apgar and St. Mary, operating on Primitive, winter operations – meaning only pit toilet is available.  On a mid-week, late April visit, I found that Apgar (which was still located in the picnic area on the lake as the camp was still under snow) was nearly full by 4pm.  So, I headed the long away around Highway 2 to Browning and up 89 to St. Mary and I was the only one camping there.

See what it’s like to visit another National Park that’s heavily under snow until the summer – Crater Lake in the Spring.

Glacier National Park is just one of many US National Parks to visit.

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