I was returning to the lower 48 states after my road trip to Alaska, coming south on the Alaska Highway. If you know anything about driving in Alaska and Yukon, other than in the Kenai Peninsula and around Anchorage, the traffic is light. But coming south to Dawson Creek, BC was quite a shock. All of the sudden there were loads of huge, speeding trucks. The trip on the Yellowhead highway from Prince George to Mount Robson was no different. But then I noticed a town called Dunster BC with a general store on the camping app on my phone, so I decided to take a detour from the Yellowhead highway and literally travel the road less traveled. Dunster is such a cool name for a town, so I had to check it out.
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The Dunster – Tete Juane Cache Route
Whereas staying on the highway will only take 30 minutes, taking this scenic drive will take at least 60 minutes of driving on mostly gravel roads without stops. With stops, plan for this trip to take 2-3 hours. From the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), you will turn right onto Dunster Station Road, which turns into Dunster-Croydon Road. Stay right when you get to a junction and the road turns into Tete Jaune-Croydon Forest Road which will take you back to Highway 16 in Tete Juane Cache, BC. Insider tip: download the maps.me app and the British Columbia maps on that app – these maps work even if you’re not connected to data or wifi. These forest roads are on the app so you’re more confident you’re on the correct road.
Dunster General Store
I arrived just
before 9am opening at the Dunster General Store. The owner opened the door and said coffee
would be ready in about 15-minutes so I took the opportunity to look
around. This tiny store has a little bit
of everything! From farming supplies to
fresh produce, spices, T-shirts. The
Dunster General Store is also the Dunster Post Office!
Insider tip: Look outside the shop for the historical list of proprietors of the Dunster General Store.
Dunster General Store
Dunster Railroad Station
The railroad
station, now a small railway museum, is across the street from the store, open
3 days a week noon to 4:00. The Via
Rail to Banff stops here on request.
Wild Blueberry Picking
The proprietor of the Dunster General Store told me there was a bumper crop of wild blueberries this year and told me to look in the areas of tree clearings. Sure enough, the ground was covered in tiny blueberry bushes. It only took a few minutes to fill a whole container with blueberries. Just as I had filled my container, I saw a big pile of fresh bear scat on the ground. I should have definitely been carrying my bear spray for berry picking!
A Momma Bear and Cub
I got in the car and drove not a mile down the road only to discover a momma bear and her cub. The momma stood on her hind legs to get a better look at me but then shuffled off into the bushes. I was glad I was in my van.
A Road Less Traveled
I only encountered a few other vehicles on this detour – a couple of logging trucks and a couple of pick-up trucks. I chatted with one couple picking berries – I warned them of the bear seen nearby and they explained the husband had bear spray and the wife had an airhorn – certainly more prepared than me. Make sure you yield to the logging trucks as you are officially on a forest road.
Other Things to See on the Dunster Road
The drive is so lovely – you are surrounded by forest and mountains. There are some scenic farmsteads, both active and inactive, along the road. They say the cows in California are happy, but the cows here have a lovely home. I pulled into Shere Lake BC Rec Site for a view of a lake. There were baby frogs everywhere!
Mount Robson
From the end of the Dunster Detour, from Tete
Juane Cache, it’s only a 14 km, or 10-minute drive to Mount Robson Provincial
Park. I will not forget the moment I turned the
corner and got my view of Mount Robson.
It brought tears to my eyes. Do
not miss this park! Some of the best
views in British Columbia.
Dunster BC – Where to Stay
To the west of this detour, on the Yellowhead
Highway, is McBride, BC (Check Rates and Availability). Valemount is to the east (Check Rates and
Availability)
The Taylor Highway and the Top of the World Highway stretches 171 miles from Tetlin Junction, Alaska to Dawson City, Yukon. The highway is paved in Alaska, but the driving the Top of the World Highway (Yukon portion) is gravel. This highway is great for views and unique experiences in Chicken and Dawson City – it’s like a step back in time to the wild west. Note that this road is only open seasonally, from April to October. Check if it is open before traveling if you travel in the months of April or October.
The Taylor Highway
The Taylor Highway, Alaska Highway 5, stretches from Tetlin Junction to Eagle, AK. I didn’t do the last portion to Eagle, but instead turned right at the junction to Yukon. This road is paved and there are still mining claims all along this stretch. There was a major fire, the Taylor Complex Fire, in 2004. You can see lots of evidence of that today and now you can find lots of wild mushrooms and blueberries in the fire zone.
The best thing to do on the Taylor Highway is to spend the night in Chicken. Chicken, AK is a very unique place. It’s the summer home to men, and a few women, who are living their lifelong dream of gold prospecting and a place for tourists to explore and stay along the Top of the World highway.
Chickens in Chicken Alaska
The most famous legend of Chicken is how it
got its name. The town founders wanted
to call it Ptarmigan (a type of small Grouse), but they didn’t know how to
spell it, so they named it Chicken instead.
The town of chicken seems to have 3 different town centers – each one having a café, gas station, camping (and in some cases other accommodation), and shopping. The souvenir shopping is divine – you can buy all sorts of gold mining supplies and lots of chickens – from chicken socks to magnets that say “I got laid in Chicken, Alaska”.
Pedro Dredge
Some things you can see and do in Chicken:
The post office on the hill
The pieces of
F.E. Company Dredge No. 4 (Pedro
Dredge), part of the Chicken Gold Camp
Downtown Chicken
Chicken statues – each section of
Chicken has its own Chicken Statues.
Gold prospecting – you can pay a
daily fee to mine of the claims around Chicken.
It’s also possible to buy some pay dirt and learn gold panning.
But my favorite thing about Chicken was hanging out in the Chicken Saloon. The drinks are a bit pricey (the camping was free, but I paid $20 for 4 cans of PBR). But I met some interesting people. I met some Canadians doing a similar trip to mine, a 40-something doing his Alaska bucket list which included gold dredging in Chicken, and 70+ year old guys that come to Chicken each year for summer gold mining. It’s fun to talk to them about the physical challenges of gold mining – you must be in shape!
Chicken Saloon
Alaska/Yukon Border
The border is located on a high mountain
pass. Note that entering Canada, you
cannot bring firearms (except those for which you have a special permit) and
limited tobacco and alcohol. Pepper
spray is also forbidden, but I was able to declare and bring bear spray over
the border.
Top of the World Highway
Make sure you stop at the pass to see the Alpine flowers and wild cranberries. It’s also interesting to stop in the defunct villages, with dusty rusting gas stations and decrepit motels – the deserted dreams of people who tried to open businesses in Alaska and around – you see so many abandoned businesses all around Alaska. If you’re super lucky, you might encounter the Porcupine Caribou herd on the highway. I met another traveler that saw 100’s of caribou along the highway in July 2019.
Views on the Top of the WorldAlpine flowers on Top of the World Highway in August
Yukon River Ferry
Just before Dawson City, you will have to
take a seasonal ferry to cross to the city. The ferry is small – only room for a few
vehicles, but the Top of the World highway is not heavily traveled. The ferry operates 24 hours when in
season. Low clearance vehicles, like my
camping van, need to take extra caution when entering and exiting the car
ferry.
Dawson City
There are some great festivals in Dawson
City, like the annual music festival and Dawson City Discovery Days. It’s worth attending one of the festivals if
your trip coincides with that. Some of
the highlights of Dawson City:
Jack London and Robert Service
Cabins – you can visit the wild west homes of these famous writers.
Yukon riverfront and SS Keno
Riverboat
Diamond Gertie’s Gambling Hall
and dancing girls – you pay $15 for an annual pass to this gambling and
drinking hall with 3 can-can shows daily.
The three shows are different – the first is the most tame (for the many
cruise ship passengers), the second show is a little racier, and the third show
features modern music and costumes.
Top of the World Highway Driving Tips
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Take the Milepost Guidebook. This book has maps and a mile by mile
description of the Top of the World Highway, as well as the other highways and
detours to and around Alaska.
The highway is 171 miles and takes 4 hours to
drive without stopping, but leave lots of extra time to stop, and plan to spend
a night in Chicken as that’s such a unique place.
There is limited cell phone reception and
wi-fi only at a few locations, so plan to be disconnected – and ENJOY being
disconnected!
Gas is so much cheaper in Alaska, so if you’re
going from Alaska to Canada, fill up in Tok, AK and then fill up again in
Chicken.
Bring any automotive essentials you might
take on a remote gravel road (spare tire, repair kit, etc)
Warning – your car will be dirty after driving the highway if there’s been any rain. But there are several car washes in Dawson City.
It’s time for a wash
Where to Stay on the Top of the World Highway
You must stay in Chicken! If you’re in a smaller vehicle, you can camp
for free at Downtown Chicken, where the only amenity is a composting toilet. If you need a motel or camping with amenities
(showers and RV hook-ups), you might want to stay at Chicken Gold Camp or Town
of Chicken (Chicken Creek RV Park).
These are my favorite photos of Alaska Fireweed, taken on my trip to Alaska in summer of 2019
The best time to see Fireweed blooming is in July. By early August, most of the Fireweed was bloomed all the way to the top and some were starting to seed. Leaves of the Fireweed also turn bright red.
Red leaves of fireweed
While Fireweed is the official territorial flower of Yukon, it’s surprisingly not the state flower of Alaska. The Alaska state flower is the Forget-me-not.
I found the most abundant Fireweed was on the Kenai peninsula, but there was Fireweed all over Alaska and Yukon. The following photos are my favorite pictures of fireweed from my 8 week trip to Canada and Alaska…
At Sunrise, the Fireweed was aglow near Whiskey Point on the Kenai Peninsula.
There were amazing views from Skyline Drive above Homer, with views of a glacier across the Kachemak Bay, with Alaska Fireweed in the foreground.
Glacier view from Skyline Drive in Homer
A close-up of fireweed with a volcano in the background, on Kenai Peninsula.
The sea of purple on this hill near Nikolaevsk is all Fireweed!
Russian Orthodox Churches and Fireweed.
Church of Saint Nicholas in Nikolaevsk
Sometimes you can get a shot of both Alaskan wildlife, like these Caribou with incredible antlers, and Fireweed.
Fireweed blooms during the golden hour on the Denali Highway.
Serendipity is having luck by accident. Serendipity is when I got stuck waiting to pass at a road construction site on the way into Valdez after 10 pm as the sun was going down, and I got this shot of the sun setting which lit the Fireweed nicely. Read more about my favorite town in Alaska – Valdez.
Sunset view after 10 pm as I was driving into Valdez
A cruise ship passing in the evening just outside of Haines
And not to forget Yukon, this was some Fireweed in Tombstone Mountain Territorial Park, nearing the end of it’s summer bloom.
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The Alaska Highway, aka the Alcan Highway, was built during WWII to connect the 48 states to Alaska, which wasn’t yet a state. It was over 1,700 miles when completed, but now it is closer to 1,400 miles due to rerouting. The miles of the Alaska Highway stretch between British Columbia, Yukon, back into BC, back into Yukon and eventually to Fairbanks, Alaska. It was an incredible effort to build and now you can travel the highway for your own adventures. There are now two main ways to drive to Alaska from the 48 states, the Alaska Highway and the Cassiar Highway in western British Columbia. These are the best things to do on the Alaska Highway, as listed from the south to the north.
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Alaska Highway Map – Source: Google Maps
Alaska Highway FAQ
Is the Alaska Highway Paved?
Despite the fact that the Alaska Highway was
mostly gravel at one time, the Alaska Highway is now completely paved except
for a few segments of maintenance. Drive
especially carefully on these sections, as flying gravel can chip your windshield. That being said, the only crack I got on my windshield
was on a paved road with paved shoulders.
A loose rock shot up from a semi-truck.
How Long Should You Travel the Alaska Highway?
If you drive 10 hours a day, it will take you
about 3 days to drive the entire Alaska Highway from Dawson Creek to Fairbanks.
But as listed below, there are plenty of interesting things to see along the
way. I cannot say how long it took me to drive the
Alaska Highway, as I made many detours during my drive.
Is the Alaska Highway Dangerous?
The Alaskan highway is no more dangerous than other roads in remote areas. There may be long periods of time between seeing other passing vehicles so it’s best to come prepared for minor car trouble or stops due to inclement weather. Always keep a look-out for wildlife that might come onto the road. It’s easier to do in British Columbia as they keep the area next to the road clear, but in Yukon and Alaska the wildlife is more hidden by trees near the road so it’s wise to drive at a moderate pace.
Do I Need theMilepost Guidebook?
A must-have for driving the Alaska Highway is the Milepost. This book is the self-proclaimed bible of travel to Alaska. It contains nearly every point of interest on any route you might take to Alaska, all around Alaska, plus many interesting detours. It contains mile by mile attractions, campgrounds, motels, and other points of interest along the entire Alcan. It also hints where you might have an extra good chance to see wildlife, where you might find wild berries, etc. You should buy this book before you travel. Not only can you plan your route, you save about $15 from buying it from a visitor center or gas station in Canada or Alaska. Buy your Milepost now at amazon to start planning your trip up the Alaska Highway.
Alaska Highway Sites and Attractions
Dawson Creek
Dawson Creek, British Columbia is the starting point of the Alaska Highway. There are a few places you should visit before you hit the road to Alaska. You should stop at the Dawson Creek visitor center. They have loads of information, maps, etc to get you started on your drive. There are two famous markers that you should visit and photograph – the milepost 0 marker and the “World Famous Alaska Highway” sign. You should also visit the Alberta Pool Grain Elevator. You can’t miss it – the tallest building in the center of the city. The Grain Elevator now houses an art gallery. Check Rates and Availability of Dawson Creek motels.
Oil and Gas Industry in eastern B.C.
The road between
Dawson Creek and Fort St. John was my least favorite part of the Alaska
Highway. This section is busy with speeding
trucks, part of the oil and gas and other industries around eastern British
Columbia and western Alberta. Even though
the road is paved, watch out for flying gravel from these speeding trucks – I got
my windshield cracked near Dawson Creek.
Stone Mountain Provincial Park
There was still fresh snow in Stone Mountain Provincial Park when I visited, and it was absolutely gorgeous. You can camp up at Summit Lake, hike, or view wildlife. Stone Mountain is a great place to see wild sheep and reindeer.
Muncho Lake Provincial Park
Muncho Lake is an emerald green lake and so pretty, even though I visited on a cloudy day. I’d love to go back on a sunny day. The park includes some nice hikes and gorgeous campgrounds on the lake. This was one time that I really wished I had packed an Inflatable Kayak for my trip.
Muncho Lake
Wildlife in Northern British Columbia
I was so excited to see wildlife in Alaska. I dreamed of seeing bears, big male moose with huge antlers, herds of caribou, and much more. However, the wildlife you can see near the roads in Alaska and Yukon are sparse. The highest concentration of animals seen on the whole 8.5 week road trip to Alaska was in northern BC, specifically in and between Stone Mountain, Muncho Lake, and Liard Hot Springs Provincial Parks. A huge herd of Wood Bison were grazing near the highway. I also saw reindeer/caribou, moose, foxes, and several black bears.
Wood Bison
Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park
Sadly, there was a
freak snowstorm on August 18th, 2019 that included heavy snow that
caused many trees to fall in northern BC, so the hot springs were closed when I
drove the Alaska Highway. Crews were
busy with their chainsaws but the park and campgrounds wasn’t expected to open
for more than 24 hours even though most of the snow had melted by the time I
arrived.
Watson Lake
Watson Lake is the first town of any size once you enter Yukon with all the major services such as restaurants, hotels, groceries, etc. But Watson Lake is most famous for its Sign Forest. A homesick man from Illinois put up a sign with the date and hometown while building the Alaska Highway. And from this single sign grew an entire forest! Thousands of new signs are added annually (don’t ask me how they count them!) Watson Lake also has a great visitor center with a small museum and films about the Alaska Highway. The visitor center also had a particularly friendly fox handing around outside – you could almost pet it. Check Rates and Availability of Watson Lake motels.
A friendly fox at the Watson Lake visitor center
I especially liked a placard at the sign forest that says“The Watson Lake Sign Post Forest is the oldest and most extensive site of it’s type. It represents the longstanding tradition of “leaving your mark”. Carl Lindley started the Sign Post Forest in 1942 when he was a homesick soldier from Danville, Illinois. While working on the construction of the Alaska Highway, he added his hometown sign to an army mileage post. A tradition of adding signs gained momentum and the single signpost grew to a forest. People from all over the world continue to add signs connecting their faraway homes to the town of Watson Lake. The Sign Post Forest illustrates the historic and universal relationship between a traveler, their journey and their connection to home. The Alaska Highway was constructed during the Second World War to provide a land based route to Alaska and ground support for the construction of airstrips for the Northwest Staging Route. Now designated an event of national significance, the Alaska Highway changed the landscape of the Yukon by providing year round access to the rest of Canada, increasing transportation routes, improving communication systems and altering settlement patters. It brought new services and expanding economic opportunities throughout the territory. While the tangible aspest of the Forest will continue to evolve, it is the intangible values, such as the emotional connection people make with the site and the stories and memories they conjure, that give the Sign Post Forest its enduring qualities.”
Whitehorse
Whitehorse is by far the largest city in Yukon. It’s worth spending a day or two here to visit the historical riverboat, museums, restaurants, and shopping. Check Rates and Availability of Whitehorse motels.
Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge is home to many types of birds and a number of mammals as well. There is a visitor center and some hikes, as well as lakes and rivers for canoeing. Read here about the two awesome free campgrounds run by Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge – Deadman Lake and Lakeview Campgrounds.
Deadman Lake
North Pole, Alaska
The town of North Pole, Alaska is about 15 miles southeast of Fairbanks along the famous Alaska Highway. There’s a huge Christmas story where you can get your photo with Santa Claus year-round. There’s also a barn with Reindeer, aka Caribou in Alaska. For $13 you can feed and pet reindeer at the “Antler Academy”.
Fairbanks
Fairbanks is endpoint of the Alaska highway. It’s the city with the largest population and cheapest gas on the entire Alcan. There are so many things to do in Fairbanks – like Riverboat Discovery, gold panning, museums, Alyeska Pipeline, and more. It’s worth spending a couple days in Fairbanks. Read here for the best things to do in Fairbanks. Check Rates and Availability of Fairbanks motels.
Do you have any other favorite places to visit on the Alaska Highway that I haven’t mentioned above? Please leave your comments below.
If you want to go to the end of the road in Denali (approximately 92 miles, and the same return), there are two options – the Kantishna Experience Tour at almost $240, and the Denali Shuttle Bus, costing around $64 to go to the end of the road. Sure, the tour includes lunch and a guaranteed guide, but the shuttle is over $175 cheaper – you could buy lunch and a guidebook and still save over $100 per person. I chose to take the shuttle and the following are my best Denali Shuttle Bus Tips.
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Update for 2020: There were bad mudslides in 2019 and there is a possibility that part of the road into Denali may be closed for maintenance in 2020. Please check nps.gov for latest updates.
Mt. McKinley/Denali on a rare day you can see it
Why You Should Take the Shuttle Bus Rather
than the Denali Tour
I’ve already mentioned the huge savings –
around $175 per person. You could take
the full shuttle ride almost 4 times for the same price as a one day Kantishna
Experience Tour.
Although the Shuttle Bus is advertised as a “Non-Narrated Transit Bus” ride, most of the bus drivers provide some light narration and they stop for extended periods so you can get great shots of wildlife. As I traveled around Alaska, I talked to many other travelers who raved how great their driver was on the Denali Shuttle Bus.
Grizzly Bear Back Scratch FeverCaribou reflection
Denali Shuttle Bus Tips
Tip #1 -The entry fee into Denali National Park is $15 but it is included if you have or buy the $80 Annual America The Beautiful Pass which gives you entry into all US National Parks for a year. Insider Tip: the pass is good until the end of the month of purchase plus 12 full months, so if you purchase the pass at the beginning of the month, the pass is good for 13 months.
Tip #2 – It’s worth reserving the bus, especially if you are traveling in the busy months of July-August. They release some of the tickets for reserving well before departure, and the remainder within 48 hours of departure. You’ll also want to make reservations for the shuttle bus if you’re planning to do any back country Denali backpacking.
Tip #3 – Find the bus! Both the tours and shuttles leave from the bus depot, not far from the entrance to the park from Parks Highway. There’s ample parking, but it’s worth arriving a bit early just in case.
Tip #4 – Stay comfortable. Both the tours and shuttle buses use glorified school busses. The seats were more comfortable than I remember from my school bus rides in the 1980’s but consider bringing a pillow or seat cushion.
Tip #5 – Heed the bladder. Neither the tours now shuttle buses have toilets, so plan on only having access to bathrooms every 90 or so minutes. Don’t drink too much coffee!
Tip #6 – Bring plenty to eat and drink. I like to bring some fruit or veggies and protein bars or hard-boiled eggs. For water, I try to avoid single use plastic water bottles and instead use a refillable bottle (I especially like this one that includes a filter). You can refill your bottle at Eielson visitor center.
Tip #7 – The most important thing is to remember your camera. Make sure you fully charge your batteries, bring extra batteries if you have them, and consider bringing a portable charger if you’re afraid your batteries might die. You will take lots of photos! I used my zoom a lot!
Tip #8 – Be flexible – the weather in Alaska is wild and you might see early snow, or pouring rain, or a great sunny day. According to a park ranger, only 30% of park visitors actually see the mountain. And now my story: I arrived on a beautiful morning. The sun was shining bright and the air was clean of the Summer 2019 smoke after a few days of rain. I happily skipped along to check-in for my day-long shuttle bus only to be told there were mudslides the previous day, and the road was only open for 30 miles of the total 93 miles. Poor roads and multiple mudslides had closed the road. They would give me a proportional refund, but they would not refund in total. I was so bummed but decided to go anyways. In the end, I’m super happy I went, as I saw the mountain, several caribou, and a silly grizzly bear roaming down the mountain and scratching his back on a little tree. And I spent the rest of the day exploring the incredibly scenic Denali Highway.
Tip #9 – Consider booking more than one day. If you’re not a hiker (or if you are a hiker), riding the bus on multiple days will ensure you see the maximum. As mentioned above, the weather isn’t super predictable so maybe one day you can see the mountain and the other you won’t. You will definitely see different animals if you ride the bus more than once. The shuttle is not super expensive, so for the same price of the tour, you can ride the bus two or three times.
Tip #10: there is one weekend per year in September where private cars can go all the way to the end of the road with a permit. There is a nominal fee to enter the lotto to get a permit and the odds are not in your favor to win, but if you’d love to drive yourself into Denali, you get to join the lotto in May and then plan your Alaska vacation around your Denali drive.
Denali Shuttle Bus
Where to Stay When Visiting Denali National
Park
Going all 93 miles into the park, either by tour or shuttle bus, means a long day – 12 or 13 hours. The nearest larger city is Fairbanks, a 2 hour and 15 minute drive from Denali Park, so consider staying in the village at the entrance of the park or in Healy before and/or after your tour or shuttle bus (Check Rates and Availability). There are several restaurants and souvenir shops available.
Exploring Further
Before or after traveling in Denali National Park, make sure you explore Fairbanks, Alaska and drive the Denali Highway for amazing views.
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I spent nearly 6 days traveling the nearly 1,100 miles of the Dempster Highway in Yukon and Northwest Territories. I spent 2 nights (and almost a 3rd night due to rain) in Inuvik and got a chance to do many of the activities around town. These are the best things to do in Inuvik, NWT.
Check Out theCommunity Bulletin Boards
Most of the activities around town are only
open for a few hours or days per week. There
are also multiple free activities in the afternoon and evenings most days. The best way to find the most up-to-date
information about these is at the bulletin boards in the two city campgrounds
or the Inuvik city or Western Arctic Visitor Centers. If you can’t make it to one of those, there
are also bulletin boards at the library and Northern Store.
Inuvik Igloo Church
The Igloo Church is the most iconic building in town, and an active Catholic Church. It’s possible to tour the church a few times per week (check bulletin boards for latest hours). The tour includes an interesting video about the construction of the church. The guy who designed the church had no engineering or architectural background.
Inside the Igloo Church
Do some of the Free Activities Around Town
The Inuvik city Visitor Center and the Western Arctic Regional Visitor Center regularly schedule cultural events in the afternoon and evening. Events include movie nights or tea with the elders in the Chief Jim Koe Park in the center of town. Cultural events at the Western Arctic Center include storytime and free cooking and arts classes. I took a dream catcher making class and got to hang out with some locals and tourists alike. One evening I watched two NWT movies in the park – a documentary about placing the Canadian flag on the bit of land closest to the North Pole. The other was a fictional movie about a young woman to was forced to go from the big city to stay with her grandmother in Fort McPherson, one of the towns in which I stopped along the Dempster Highway.
Dreamcatcher class (mine’s the white and purple one in the middle)
Western Arctic Regional Visitor Center
This is a really great visitor center and a good place to kill a couple hours if the weather is bad or the Dempster Highway driving conditions are bad. They have displays on aurora, animals, and local culture. They have loads of different videos on demand. I watched a couple videos, and highly recommend the video on the last year of the Ice Road between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk. Don’t forget to pick up your free certificate here commemorating your crossing of the Arctic Circle!
Western Arctic Regional Visitor Center
Day (or Overnight) Trip up to Tuktoyaktuk,
NWT
If you’ve made it as far as Inuvik, you absolutely must drive the last 90 miles to Tuktoyaktuk andthe Arctic Ocean. I met one woman who had bicycled to Inuvik and wasn’t going to ride to Tuk – I told her she must find someone to hitch a ride to visit the unique site at the end of the world. If you don’t have transport (or don’t want to drive your vehicle up there), there are a couple tour operators around Inuvik which will take you, but it’s spendy.
It’s a little windy at the Arctic Ocean
Soak or Swim at the Aquatic Centre at the
Midnight Sun Complex
You can swim, ride the waterslide, sit in the
sauna or steam room, ride the lazy river, or soak in the hot tub all year long
at the aquatic centre. The hot tub is especially inviting after a chilly
trip up to Tuktoyaktuk.
Tour the Inuvik Community Garden
This summer-only greenhouse is a converted hockey rink. The community garden gives tours a few times per week in the late afternoon for a small donation.
Inuvik Community Greenhouse
Stop into the Airport to see the Polar Bear
It’s worth the stop into the airport to see the stuffed polar bear (don’t worry, a sign tells you it died of natural causes). You can also eat lunch or breakfast at the Cloud 9 cafe, one of the best places to eat in town.
See the Midnight Sun Mosque
Inuvik is home to one of the northernmost mosques in the work (there’s one in Russia that’s 1 degree further north).
Midnight Sun Mosque
Attend a Town Festival
I was hoping to time my visit with the Great Northern
Arts Festival in July, a festival showcasing local arts. But summer 2019 had loads of wildfires and
heavy smoke in the Arctic in July so I headed south to the Atlin Arts and Music
Festival instead. But the most interesting sounding festival is
the Sunrise festival, held in January after the 30 days of constant winter
darkness.
Stop Into the Library
If you need access to wifi, the best place in
town is the local library.
Check Out the Shopping
If you want to appreciate the shopping prices from your hometown, stop into the Northern Store to check out the grocery prices. In addition to groceries and a KFC express, this shop sells everything from clothing to $18,000 snowmobiles. There are also a few shops around selling art and souvenirs. I found the selection here was much better than the souvenir shop in Tuktoyaktuk.
Where to Stay in Inuvik
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I like to camp for free when I can, but there weren’t any clearly great free places to camp between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk (in fact, Tuk has security guards that will wake you up in the night if you try to free camp too close to town). For $24 CAD, you can camp at one of the two Northwest Territories Campgrounds in Inuvik – the Happy Valley Campground is right in town, and the Jak Campground is between the town and the airport. I stayed at Jak Campground which had really great hot and clean showers included in the camping fees. If you’re not camping, or want a break from the weather, there are several good motels in Inuvik (Oil company workers often have to visit for work). Check Rates and Availability in Inuvik.
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I arrived into Dawson City in the afternoon, after a rough start in Chicken, AK (too many PBRs) and driving the Top of the World highway. I stopped into both the Dawson City and Northwest Territories visitor centers, located across the street from each other. I got a great map and guide of the Dempster Highway and learned there was rain forecast for the entire highway for at least the next week. But, it was dry in Dawson City and I was hoping to at least see Tombstone Mountain Territorial Park in partial sunlight so I decided to fill with gas and get started on the Dempster immediately, rather than start on Sunday morning. The first bit of the Dempster was smooth and dry – much better than expected. I saw a porcupine and enjoyed the views of the Tombstone Mountain. North of the park I encountered rain, but I decided to get as far as I could as the roads might even be slicker the next day. There was some slipping around but it got really slippery in about 5 inches of pure mud as I approached the Ogilive-Peel Viewpoint Rest Area so I decided to camp there with a couple other cars and semis parked for the night.
Saturday Night at Tombstone Territorial Park
Sunday
I had slippery roads in the morning, especially near Rock River, and I stopped at the major sites along the way, including the Arctic Circle (believe it or not, this was my first time crossing the Arctic Circle), and the Yukon/NWT border. The roads got much better in NWT. I stopped at a territorial park and got a certificate for making the Arctic Circle crossing, and had to ride on two river ferries.
Time for a wash, at the Arctic Circle
I eventually arrived in Inuvik in early
evening after a very full day of (slow) driving. I wasn’t crazy about the
choices for free camping and talked to a couple that said there was no camping
between Inuvik and Tuk, so I decided to stay at the great Jak Campground for
$23.65, just outside of town.
Monday
Got up early, had a hot shower at the campground, and hit the road for the 144 km drive to Tuk. The start of the road wasn’t too bad, but it got worse as I approached Tuk, as there had been quite a bit of rain in the previous hours and days. I stopped to see the Pingo and went into town. Got some photos of the famous “Arctic Ocean” sign and stopped in the visitor center. Had lunch at Grandma’s Kitchen – a sampler plate I had them put together of the various local delicacies – smoked white fish, smoked Beluga jerky, and raw Beluga blubber. I’m pretty sure I’d lose weight if this was the make-up of my diet. The raw whale meat was not good.
Dipping my toes in the Arctic OceanLocal delicacies – Muktuk and smoked fish
I took my time driving back to Inuvik, stopping to pick cloud berries, soft orange berries with an indescribable taste. Tart and mushy but unlike anything I’ve ever tasted before.
Cloud berries
Back in Inuvik, I did a tour of the Igloo Church and watched a documentary about placing a Canadian flag on the land nearest the North Pole and a fictional story about a young woman from the city that returned to her mother’s small village in NWT. I stayed in the Jak Campground again.
Inside the Igloo Church
Tuesday
It was raining all night and morning so I was in no hurry to start driving the Dempster Highway as it would be mush. Slept in a little and made coffee. Hung out at the library and visited the Aurora Research Center. I took a free craft class at the Western Arctic Visitor center, making a dream catcher. I was hoping to do a tour of the Inuvik Greenhouse Community Garden at 5:30 but there was a sign on the door cancelling the tour, but they let me have a little walk around inside. Since this ended early and it hadn’t been raining, I decided to start my return trip towards Dawson City. I made good time and didn’t have to wait for the ferry long, so I was able to make both ferry crossings well before their ending times of the day. It was along this stretch that I had one of my coolest wildlife experiences of the trip. I came upon a fox that had a limp, dead rabbit in its mouth. It watched me, and I shot photos. I drove by it and it started following behind my van. So I stopped and it trotted by my van. I started to drive again, and it followed again. We repeated this process 3 times before the fox decided he had enough and ran off into the brush.
Red Fox and prey
I made it to Midway Lake – half way between
the Peel River and the Yukon border. There is a First Nations festival
here in August to coincide with the Caribou herd running, but it’s a virtual
ghost town the rest of the year. There was a couple from Switzerland
camping too so I felt safe.
Wednesday
I woke up early and got on the road
immediately. There was some rain in the morning, so the roads were bad,
especially near Rock River. I stopped in Eagle Plains for gas and decided
to relax a little since I was making great time and didn’t need to be to Dawson
City until tomorrow for the festival so I drank several cups of excellent
coffee in the Eagle Plains restaurant. It was pretty quiet in the
restaurant and I watched Canadian news, and heard of the big stock market
drop.
I continued driving to Tombstone Mountain park. I was planning on doing a hike, but the rain seemed to be off and on, so I found a spot in a gravel pit on the north end of the park and spent some time doing some writing. I went to sleep only to hear some noise on the roof of my van around 11:15. At first it sounded like raindrops but then I could tell it was something different. It was only on one edge of the roof. While solo camping, I have a lot of fear that someone is going to mess with me, so the first thing that comes in my mind is that someone is throwing gravel at my truck. The noise stops so I peek out from behind my curtain and see if I can spot something in my side mirrors. On my right mirror, I see a flash of white. Was someone wearing a white t-shirt and lurking about my van? I keep myself partially hidden as I grab my bear spray and keep looking out the windows and mirrors and then I spot the culprit… a large owl is sitting on the ground, just staring at me. Owls are so cool, so I grab my camera and try to take a photo. At nearly 11:30, there is still some light in the sky in August. The owl flies over my head and lands on the side of the gravel pit. It sits patiently before it starts flying over my head. It disappears behind a hill and a second owl is following it. They keep circling and swooping over my head, getting as close as 5 feet away. I can see their faces in the partially dark/light skies. And then a third bird joins them – 3 owls swooping my head. Eventually, they fly away and I don’t see them again. I go to bed thinking about the cool experience.
Thursday
Tombstone Provincial Park was beautiful in the morning. The sun was partially shining, and the fall colors were starting to show. I stopped into the visitor center and enjoyed the view and sipped Labrador Tea with yarrow and cranberries.
Partially Sunny Morning at Tombstone Territorial Park
I drove back to the start of the Dempster Highway where it joined the Klondike Highway. I stopped at the Dempster Highway Interpretive sign, it felt very anti-climactic. I did a little jump for joy and a bridge construction worker saw me – she didn’t care and went back to her job.
I drove into Dawson City, arriving
mid-afternoon. After checking e-mail for
the first time in a couple days, I popped into the Northwest Territories
visitor center to sign in on completing the Dempster highway and enter the
drawing to win an NWT diamond. I was telling
the lady the story about the owls and she got a concerned look on her
face. “Did anyone you love die? Owls are the messengers of death and someone
you love will die in 24 hours.” I freaked
out a little and tried to call my parents.
No answer. Eventually I got hold
of my sister-in-law and found out everyone was fine. A strange end to my Dempster Highway adventure.
Driving the Dempster Highway is one of the great North American adventures as you drive all the way to the Arctic Ocean, in the hamlet of Tuktoyaktuk (lovingly referred to as “Tuk”, pronounced “tuck”). I was driving the Dempster Highway from August 10-15, 2019. I had originally planned to visit around July 18 to attend the annual arts festival in Inuvik, but the smoke conditions were very bad, so I detoured to Atlin, BCandAlaska first. Read here about my experience on the Dempster Highway, and below for some tips if you’re planning to do the journey for driving tips and things you can see on the Dempster Highway.
What is the Dempster Highway?
The Dempster is a 736 km (457 mile) gravel road from the junction of Highway 2 in Yukon (aka the Klondike Highway) to Inuvik, Northwest Territories. It was completed in 1978 and has been known as one of the more extreme road trips in North America. In late 2017, a road was completed the final 144 km (90 miles) to Tuktoyaktuk, which previously was only reachable by plane and in the winter when there was an ice road on the Mackenzie River and the Arctic Ocean. So now, you can drive 547 miles one way to the Arctic Ocean, of course you have to drive back the same way you came!
What to See on the Dempster Highway – Scenery
The highway is famous for its scenery. Some of the top scenic highlights include:
Tombstone Territorial Park – this is one of the most scenic sections of the Dempster Highway. There are several hikes to do in the park. If you’re short on time, the Goldenside Trail is a short (4 km), scenic hike.
Tombstone Territorial Park
Fall Colors – late August to early September is one of the best times to travel the highway, as you might see the northern lights and the fall colors are amazing.
Fall Colors
Ogilvie-Peel viewpoint Lookout – this viewpoint is the meeting of two rivers.
Ogilvie-Peel viewpoint
Arctic Circle Crossing – stop at the Arctic Circle for great views and pictures at the Arctic Circle Marker.
Arctic Circle Marker
Yukon/NWT Crossing and Markers – the border is located on a mountain pass, there was snow present in my early August visit. Each territory has its own welcome signs.
NWT border, on a snowy morning
Fort McPherson – it’s worth a visit to the local church and cemetery. You can visit the grave of the Lost Patrol. The Lost Patrol were 4 Mounties that set off using sled dogs from Fort McPherson to Dawson City in the winter without a guide. Sadly, it didn’t end well for the Mounties or the dogs.
Grave of the Lost Patrol
Inuvik/Mackenzie River – Inuvik is the largest town in this part of NWT, with a population above 3,000. It’s the only pavement you will see on the entire Dempster highway. The Mackenzie River makes the border of the western side of Inuvik
Inuvik Igloo Church
Pingos – Pingos are earth-covered ice blocks caused by permafrost and one of the largest Pingos in the world is located just outside of Tuktoyaktuk, part of Parks Canada. The adventurous can canoe to a boardwalk to get a closer view.
Tuktoyaktuk Pingo
Tuktoyaktuk/Arctic Ocean – Tuktoyaktuk is a small town with mostly First Nations population on the Arctic Ocean. You can park on the spit for photos of the “Arctic Ocean” sign. It’s also possible to camp out there for $63 CAD per night (money to go for developing the site). While you are allowed to dip your toes at the city park, a better place to swim or dip your toes is at the beach at Grandma’s Kitchen. Make sure you stop into Grandma’s Kitchen to try local delicacies. I tried a sampler plate of smoked fish, muktuk (raw beluga meat), and beluga jerky.
It’s a little windy at the Arctic Ocean
What to See on the Dempster Highway –
Wildlife
Wildlife is not abundant on the highway. The only wildlife I saw was birds, rabbits, and a couple foxes. That being said, you may be lucky. I met 3 different travelers, one saw a Grizzly Bear, one saw the huge Porcupine Caribou herd, and the other incredibly saw a Musk Ox.
Red Fox and prey
How Many Days to Do the Dempster Highway?
They say the highway is like Vegas – 3 days
is too short and 7 days is too long. 3
days would mean you’re literally driving from morning to night with no stops
(it is 1100 miles on gravel, after all).
I would say do a minimum of 4 days
(Day 1 to Dawson City to Eagle Plains, Day 2 to Tuktoyaktuk, Day 3 back
to Eagle Plains, Day 4 back to Dawson City). My trip was 5.5 days and I felt that was
about perfect. It gave me some time to
explore Tuktoyaktuk, Inuvik, and Tombstone Territorial Park.
Dempster Highway Driving Tips
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Take the Milepost Guidebook. This book has maps and a mile by mile description of the Top of the World Highway, as well as the other highways and detours to and around Alaska.
The best advice someone gave me – if it is raining and the road is sloppy, avoid driving. You will be stuck in slippery mud. On the day I had planned my departure from Inuvik, it had rained all night and the roads were terrible. So I hung out in Inuvik all day, visiting the museum, watching films, taking an art class (making a small dream catcher), and using the wi-fi at the library. By 5 pm, the roads were drier so I drove for 5 hours on better roads. The next day, I heard both a tour bus and RV had gone in the ditch near Rock River Campground, the worst part of the Dempster Highway.
A little bit of rain makes the road messy
There is limited cell phone reception and
wi-fi only at a few locations, so plan to be disconnected – and ENJOY being
disconnected!
Ferry Crossings – the times are fairly random, so expect to wait awhile, up to 30 minutes at the Mackenzie River crossing as that’s a 3-way crossing between the two ends of the Dempster and the village of Tsiigehtchic. The Peel River Ferry just runs back and forth so it’s a shorter wait. These ferries are open from 8-9 am to 11-12 midnight each day. If you do get stuck in between the two ferries, there is a motel in Fort McPherson, a NWT campground at Nitainlaii Territorial Park just north of the Peel River ferry, and several places you can Boondock camp for free.
Mackenzie River Ferry Boat
Dempster Highway Gas Stations – the gas
stations from south to north are Dawson City, Dempster Highway Junction
(24-hour cardlock only), Eagle Plains, Fort McPherson, Inuvik, and
Tuktoyaktuk. At the time of my visit, there was only an 11 cent
difference per liter of gas. It seems that Fort McPherson consistently
has the cheapest gas, and Eagle Plains has the most expensive (probably because
they can – it’s such a long distance without stations from Dawson City to Eagle
Plains). In summer 2019, Bob’s Welding which has stations in Inuvik and
Tuk was offering a 10% discount. These are full service stations
but keep an eye on your gas filler – I suspect one time the machine hadn’t been
reset to zero and another time the guy overfilled my tank by topping it up to
much, which I didn’t ask for. Also, at Eagle Plains, they will
automatically fill your tank rather than ask how much you want – I only wanted
enough to get to Fort McPherson but he had already filled it by the time I got out
of my car to talk to him.
The Dempster is notorious for flat tires but
I think this is a story of the past – I don’t think I met a single person that
had a flat tire, and I didn’t see anyone stopped fixing one on the road.
That being said, it is worth coming prepared as flats certainly do
happen. Bring any automotive essentials you might take on a remote gravel
road (spare tire, repair kit, etc)
The Dempster is also notorious for chipped
windshields and I am sorry to report I did end up with a small chip. I
was pulling over to let semis go by but a big pickup truck sent a small rock
flying my way. Of the others that had rock chips, most of them got it on
the Alaska Highway rather than the Dempster.
Warning – your car will be VERY dirty and caked with mud after driving the highway. The back of my van was caked with as much as ½ an inch of mud, and I had to kick huge clumps of mud from my wheel wells. There are several car washes in Dawson City. Insider tip: consider having your tires washed of the mud. My van was off balance for some time due to caked mud.
Time for a wash, at the Arctic Circle
Weather on the Dempster Highway
On the Dempster Highway, I encountered sun, rain, mud, sleet, snow, horizontal mist, rainbows, and that was on Monday morning! Weather on the Dempster Highway is quite erratic. In general, the weather was a little be better than forecast – for example if it was a forecast of clouds, there was a little sun. If there was a forecast of rain, there were clearings in the rain.
Rainbow on the Dempster Highway
Cost to Drive the Dempster Highway
The main cost of the Dempster Highway is the
gas! Gas cost from $1.59 to $1.70 CAD
per liter. I got surprisingly good mileage on the gravel
road, but poor mileage on the sections where I was driving in mushy mud.
The next cost was camping. While there are lots of places to pull over
in Yukon and southern NWT to camp for free, once you get near Inuvik and
Tuktoyaktuk, there are no places to camp for free (or legally anyways). The public campgrounds in NWT are $23.65 CAD
a night, but they usually include flush toilets and hot showers, unlike the public
Yukon campgrounds that cost only $12 CAD a night.
Another cost was food. I was on a diet and I had stocked up prior to making the trip north. I did eat out one meal at Grandma’s Kitchen in Tuktoyaktuk. And I stopped into the cafe at Eagle Plains for some great coffee.
Local delicacies – Muktuk and smoked fish
Most activities and attractions along the
Dempster Highway are free – including Tombstone Territorial Park, Arctic Circle
marker, Pingos, and Tuktoyaktuk spit. I
also participated in some free cultural activities in Inuvik.
Where to Stay on the Dempster Highway
There’s lots of camping on the Dempster Highway. If you’re not camping, there are only a few places to stay – the single motel at Eagle Plains and one of several motels and hotels in Inuvik (Check Rates and Availability in Inuvik). There are also a few B&B’s in Tuktoyaktuk, but they are quite expensive.
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The Denali Highway should not be confused with Denali National Park. The Denali Highway does not run directly through Denali National Park, nor directly to the entrance of the park, but on a clear day you can get incredible views of the Denali Mountain (aka Mt. McKinley), the highest mountain in North America from the Highway
Just a random view on the Denali Highway
What is the Denali Highway?
The Denali Highway, Alaska Highway 8, stretches 136 miles west to east from Cantwell, AK to Paxson, AK. While the two ends are paved, the majority of the road is gravel. This is the historical route to Denali National Park, opened in 1957 but the main entrance to the park is now from the paved Parks Highway that runs from Anchorage to Fairbanks. The Denali Highway is a seasonal highway only open from late Spring to early Fall – the snow is not cleared from around October to May each year.
Denali Highway was not on my initial itinerary to Alaska, as I had originally planned to go from Kenai and Anchorage to Denali National Park, to Fairbanks, then back down along the Alaska Highway to the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City. The Denali Highway was out of the way. And it was gravel (and I had plenty of other gravel highways to traverse, like the road to Salmon Glacier in Hyder, Road to McCarthy (Kennecott), the Top of the World Highway, and the Dempster Highway). But as I made my way around Alaska, I had so many locals ask me if I was going and highly suggest this drive. So, when my plans changed to first visit Fairbanks before Denali National Park (planned that way to visit Denali on a day with nice weather), it now meant that driving this highway would not be so far out of the way. And I am so glad I did it – the weather was perfect and the views were priceless. As I was sitting by the lake enjoying the sunset, I heard a big splash. Usually such a large splash was the sound of a moose, but in this case, it was a colony (group) of beavers swimming in a line. They looked like they were up to no good – I’ve researched but don’t know why they might have been swimming like that.
Beaver Swimming
What to See and do on the Denali Highway
The Denali Highway is all about taking your time, enjoying the views, picking wild blueberries (if you visit in August), and enjoying the fresh air. Some of the highlights of the Denali Highway from west to east:
From the westernmost part of the highway, there are great views of Mt. McKinley/Denali.
View of Denali from the Denali Highway
You will not miss the views of the Alaska Range and it’s glaciers as you make your way along the highway. In this area, look for eskers (a glacier caused ridge of silt), where you may be able to pick wild blueberries in August. There are some fantastic wild camping areas with views of the Alaska Range.
Imagine camping here, with a view of the Alaska Range
My favorite part of the road was around the 50-Mile Lake. Wildlife abounds and there are some great camping spots. Look for Pingos – mounds of ice covered by earth that exist in permafrost conditions. I spotted some of these around 50-mile Lake.
Tangle Lakes Archaeological District has
hundreds of archaeological sites dating from around 10,000 years ago. There are some great hikes in this area.
At the eastern part of the Denali Highway, you have views of the Wrangell Mountains.
Wrangell Mountains
Bring a canoe or an inflatable kayak and take a float on one of the many lakes along the highway. Next time I go to Alaska, I definitely want to take a boat.
Alaska Canoeing
Enjoy a sunset – pick your favorite spot along the highway and have a BBQ and/or drinks as you watch the sunset and only have the sound of the wind and wildlife.
Denali Highway Sunset
Denali Highway Driving Tips
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website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with
no additional cost to you.
Take the Milepost Guidebook. This book has maps and a mile by mile
description of the Denali Highway, as well as the other highways and detours to
and around Alaska.
The highway is 136 miles and takes 4 hours to
drive without stopping, but leave lots of extra time to stop, and plan to spend
a night either in Cantwell or along the highway.
There is no cell phone reception and wi-fi
only at a few locations, so plan to be disconnected – and ENJOY being
disconnected!
Fill up with gas! First of all, make sure you are completely full when leaving the Anchorage or Fairbanks area, as they have the cheapest gas in Alaska. I topped off in Cantwell, which was surprisingly the most expensive gas in Alaska (more expensive than remote areas like Chicken and Haines). There is no gas station in Paxson, but there are two lodges along the highway where you may be able to get gas – the Tangle River Inn and the Clearwater Mountain Lodge.
Bring any automotive essentials you might take on a remote gravel road (spare tire, repair kit, etc).
Bring spare water and food just in case you break down or decide to spend another night. There are no towns along the highway and only a few restaurants located in the lodges.
Where to Stay on the Denali Highway
If you’re not camping, consider staying at the Backwoods Lodge in Cantwell, on the western end of the Denali Highway. This place is super clean, has a great staff, and a great BBQ area. (Check Rates and Availability). There are several lodges along the Denali Highway (some specializing in hunting – Caribou hunting is big business on the highway). There are a couple establish, paid government campgrounds along the road, but countless “Boondooking” sites (campgrounds without facilities, but amazing VIEWS)! I camped next to 50-Mile lake and had views of eagles, swans, pingos, mountains, glaciers, beavers, a caribou, and a beautiful sunset.
Seven Swans a swimming
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Fairbanks, Alaska is popular for its winter activities like soaking at Chena Hot Springs, dog mushing, and marveling at the Northern Lights. But Fairbanks is a great summer destination too. Fairbanks is a perfect access point to Denali National Park, with the national park entrance only a 2 hour and 15 minute drive from Fairbanks. These are the best things to do in Fairbanks in Summer:
Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitors
Center – Fairbanks Visitor Center (Explore Fairbanks)
Your first stop when you arrive to Fairbanks should be the visitor center. There’s plenty of free parking and they can give you lots of maps and info about Fairbanks attractions and Fairbanks activities. Insider trip: pick up the yellow map for independent travelers. This was my favorite map for Fairbanks. The building houses a great museum and theater. In the summer, a group of local teenagers do a Native American cultural show with dancing, skits, and audience questions. The theater also shows various films on Fairbanks and culture. If you have a free evening in Fairbanks or it’s a rainy day, it’s a great plan to watch some films. One of the most instagrammable spots in Fairbanks is just outside the visitor center in the park – you can get your photo at the moose antler arch.
Riverboat Discovery
Riverboat Discovery is a 3-hour adventure on a huge riverboat, the “Discovery III” on the Chena River. It combines a mix of boat ride, sea planes, sled dogs, Athabascan culture, reindeer, and more. Read more about my Riverboat Discovery trip here.
Discovery III – Riverboat Discovery
LARS – Large Animal Research Station
LARS is located west of the city and the farm is part of the University of Alaska in Fairbanks. This is one of the best places to see the incredible Musk Oxen in Alaska, along with other wild animals. They do tours several times a day.
Georgeson Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden is also west of the city and part of the U of A. See the plants that grow under the midnight sun. Many flowers and huge cabbages! Suggested donation of $5 or more per person.
Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum
This museum is the collection of a husband-wife duo. The husband collects cars from invention to the 1930’s, and the wife collects clothes and accessories from the same eras. What’s unique about this museum is that most of the cars are in working condition, with a working auto shop on sight. There’s one car where you can dress up and get your photo taken inside. Make sure you read the story about the first trip from Fairbanks to Valdez by car in 1913! The museum is a great rainy day activity.
Museum of the North
This is the most
popular museum in Fairbanks. I didn’t
have time to visit on this trip, but will need to visit my next trip to
Fairbanks.
Creamer’s Field
Creamer’s Field is a beautiful wildlife refuge with walking trails on the north end of town. It’s most famous for migratory fowl. There are about a hundred Sandhill Cranes that spend the year here, but you might see as many as a thousand cranes if you visit during migration.
North Pole – Santa and Reindeer
The town of North Pole, Alaska is about 15 miles southeast of Fairbanks along the famous Alaska Highway. There’s a huge Christmas story where you can get your photo with Santa Claus year round. There’s also a barn with Reindeer, aka Caribou. For about $13 you can feed and pet reindeer at the “Antler Academy”. For an even larger Christmas shop, visit Bonners in Frankenmuth, Michigan.
Pioneer Park
Pioneer Park is a
group of historical buildings, museums, a riverboat, and other
attractions. There are places to eat and
shop. I rode the train for only $2 which
gives you a view of the whole park. In
the summer, they have free concerts in the evening.
Gold Dredge 8
The Gold Dredge No. 8 tour is a two-hour experience that includes a train ride, education about the gold mining practices at the start of the 20th century, a chance to visit the inside of a gold dredge, panning for gold, turning your gold into jewelry, and a talk about the Alaskan oil pipeline. It was my favorite thing to do in Fairbanks. Read more about my Gold Dredge 8 trip here.
Fox Spring
Take Highway 2 Steese
Highway north a few miles past the turn off to Gold Dredge 8, go past the junction
with Highway 6, and you will see a shack on the left side of the road. This
wooden building contains a couple taps to pour water directly from the Fox
Spring – the best tasting water in Alaska.
I filled all of my bottles!
Alaska Oil Pipeline – Alyeska Pipeline
Viewing Point
Take Highway 2 Steese Highway north of Fairbanks but south of Gold Dredge 8 and you will see an interpretive display on the Alyeska Pipeline, with a portion of the pipeline above ground. Read the placards to learn what is a pipeline “pig”. This is one of the most accessible places to see the pipeline in Alaska. It’s cool to see the diameter of the pipe up close.
Eat Thai Food, or other Cuisine
There are loads of
great restaurants in Fairbanks, but for a city of this size, they have an
incredible number of Thai Restaurants. The
restaurant I wanted to try, but I was trying to stick to my diet, was the Moldovan
restaurant downtown. Another popular
dinner choice is the Salmon Bake located at Pioneer Park
Weather in Fairbanks in Summer
Fairbanks summer is
considered to run from May – July, as these are the months with the longest
days. August is locally considered as
fall, as it starts to get dark at night. You might even spot the northern lights later
in the month. Average highs in the summer are around 70
degrees, but it can get as high as 90 degrees.
Where to Stay in Fairbanks
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website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with
no additional cost to you.
Fairbanks has a wide selection of hotels and motels. It’s a very drivable city so any place in or around the city would be a good choice. (Check Rates and Availability in Fairbanks)
. This book has maps and a mile by mile
description of the Top of the World Highway, as well as the other highways and
detours to and around Alaska.
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