Driving Whitehorse to Skagway – a Side Trip to Skagway via the World’s Smallest Desert

It was mid-August and I was starting to drive home to Seattle after my long journey up the Dempster Highway, I wasn’t looking forward to 30+ hours of driving to get home.  I stopped into the main Yukon visitor center in Whitehorse to pick up material for my drive south along the Alaska Highway.  I happened to look at the weather forecast and discovered it was snowing in northern British Columbia!  They were expecting a freak snowstorm with over a foot of snow!   On August 19^th!!!  There was another traveler at the help desk, and she said they had driven thru the starting bit of snow, and the driving conditions were terrible!   The nighttime lows in the area were around freezing – not my favorite sleeping temperatures when I don’t have a heater and I’m van camping.  So, I asked the lady at the desk for advice and she suggested that I drive from Whitehorse to Skagway for the night and take a look around the gold rush town.

Skagway is only 19 miles from Haines by ferry.  I had visited Haines earlier in the trip but the ferry costs $130 so I had chosen to skip Skagway.  But now, snow had given me the time to make a trip to Skagway after all.

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Driving from Whitehorse to Skagway

It’s a 176 km, 2.25 hour drive from Whitehorse, Yukon to Skagway on Highway 2 which turns into Highway 98.  The road is paved the whole way and in quite good condition (maintenance was being performed during my drive). 

Carcross Desert

I’ve visited some of the world’s best deserts, like the Sahara in Egypt, Danakil Depression in Ethiopia, the Gobi in Mongolia, the outback in Australia, and the incredible gas crater in the middle of the Turkmenistan desert.  But I never knew that the world’s smallest desert is in Yukon and there’s a nice little pullout along Highway 2.  I highly recommend walking in the dunes in your bare feet… so relaxing. 

Carcross, Yukon

Carcross is a cute little town with a great visitor center, coffee shops, restaurants, and a few shops.  After many years without one, a pub opened in the local hotel.    Once or twice a week, the train comes to Carcross.  Otherwise, it’s a sleepy little town.   If open, make sure you stop into Matthew Watson General Store, a funky store with knick-knacks and ice cream. 

Tutshi Lake

Tutshi Lake is turquoise blue on a sunny day.  There’s an established Yukon campground for $12 CAD and some secret places to camp for free too.   Make sure you watch for wildlife – it’s common to see mountain goats, sheep, and bears in this area.  I met a couple of sheep hunters from the Vancouver area at my campground.

White Pass

The drive over White Pass that differed from other scenery seen on the drive to other coastal towns like Hyder, Haines, Valdez, Seward, and Homer.  The terrain around White Pass is dotted with tarns, or small lakes in the mountains.  They look like little gems in the rocks.  Other things to do up in the area of the pass are viewing waterfalls and blueberry picking in August.   This area has lots of history, as two different gold rush routes made their way from Skagway to Dawson City. 

Canada/Alaska Border

The border is located on White Pass.  Note that entering Canada, you cannot bring firearms (except those for which you have a special permit) and limited tobacco and alcohol.  Pepper spray is also forbidden, but I was able to declare and bring bear spray over the border into Canada. 

Places to Visit in Skagway – Top Skagway Attractions

• Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Visitor Center and Exhibits – this is the best thing to do in downtown Skagway and it’s free!   Stop into the visitor center to get maps and information on the historical buildings around town.  My favorite was the saloon!
• Dyea – if you have your own wheels, you can visit the start of the Chilkoot Trail in the ghost town of Dyea.  It’s a beautiful drive and your best chance to see wildlife near Skagway
• Shop til you drop – there’s loads of shopping in Skagway.   The Alaska Shirt Company is near the cruise port and train station.  They have some of the cheapest souvenirs in Alaska (granted, it’s all made in China). 
• Red Onion Saloon – a historical pub with food and a brothel museum upstairs! 

Advice to Cruise Ship Passengers to Skagway

Skagway gets nearly 1,000,000 cruise ship passengers per year.  While I visited Skagway for a day, there were 3 ships in port.  If possible, make your way up to White Pass – you can make a trip in a half–day, either by tour or by the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway.  Spend the rest of the day exploring some of the Skagway attractions above.

Spending the Night in Skagway?  Check Rates and Availability

Do you like Skagway? Check out all the other places I visited in Alaska.

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