If you’re spending some time in Sarajevo and have a spare day, I highly recommend a day or overnight trip to Lukomir Mountain Village in Bosnia (pronounced Luke – oh – meer). This village is on the back side of Bjelasnica Mountain, about a 2-hour drive from the capital of Sarajevo. You can do it on your own or take a Lukomir Tour.
Lukomir Hiking
There are several trails out of Lukomir, in addition to hiking along the main road. You are likely to encounter more sheep than people on the trail! I recommend bringing Hiking Poles for this hike! It’s a bit steep in places and hiking poles help stability and balance.
The Lukomir Village
The ethnic village is so remote, it is said this is the only Bosnian village that was unaffected by the Serbians in the 1990’s war on Bosnia. The population is only around 50 and none of the residents stay over the winter as there is too much snow and it is impossible to travel to neighboring village for food, medical treatment, etc.
Exploring the Village
Make sure you save some time to walk around the village. Walk around the houses, play with the cats, and be amused by the stray chickens. From the village facing towards the canyon, make sure you head up the hill past the cemetery to see the stecak grave stones (Stecci) from pre-Ottoman era. This particular grave is the most famous of the 60,000 graves in Bosnia, as it is remote, has a carving of a cross, and overlooks an incredible view.
Pop into the Mosque
You are welcome to visit the mosque as long as you remove your shoes.
Have a Burek and some Bosnian Coffee
There’s a small restaurant at the entrance to the village. Here you can eat some of the best Burek (bread pie) in Bosnia and Herzegovina, made from local ingredients. They also serve Bosnian Coffee and other drinks.
Make sure you order ahead if you want to eat.
A Toilet with a View
Toilet with a view
When you visit Lukomir, you must go to the toilet on the outskirts of the Lukomir village. It’s said to be the bathroom with the best view in all of Europe. Be aware it is a squat toilet and isn’t the most fresh toilet I’ve used.
How to Get to Lukomir
Lukomir is not currently accessible by public transportation. This is both a blessing and a curse. It makes getting to Lukomir much more difficult for budget travelers (although it is possible to get a ride to a nearby town, but it is still quite a hike), but it also keeps the town more untouched. I met a number of people in Sarajevo and none of them have visited Lukomir even though it is couple hour drive for them. This keeps the town and trails having few tourists and remaining relatively unspoiled.
So, the best options are to take a Lukomir tour or rent a car.
For a Lukomir Tour, I recommend Green Visions, as they offer the cheapest tour I could find per person at 45 Euros (90 BAM), but also includes a great English speaking guide and lunch.
If you’re taking a rental car, note that some rental cars in Bosnia forbid driving on gravel road and Lukomir is accessed via a long gravel road. Ignoring these restrictions, driving to Lukomir is doable in a non-4×4 car if driven slowly.
Lukomir – Where to Stay
This post contains affiliate links. This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. There are several, very highly rated places to stay in Lukomir (Check Rates and Availability). Here you can stay in one of the traditional stone houses which have been converted to a Lukimor Guest House. Make sure you make reservations, especially on busy weekends.
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