Things to Do in Hyder, Alaska (4th of July – Glaciated and Hyderized)

When planning my big trip to Alaska, I originally figured I would be in British Columbia (BC) for the 4^th of July, since I was going to be spending Canada day in Barkerville, smack dab in the center of BC.  But then I got to researching and found there is one small outpost of Alaska in the far southeast corner that is only accessible by Canada.  So, I found I could spend Independence Day in America after all by celebrating the 4^th of July in Hyder, AK.  Here’s my guide of the best things to do in Hyder, tips on visiting, and what it’s like to spend the 4^th of July.

For those who want a taste of Alaska without driving all the way up – Hyder is ONLY an 18 hour 36 minute drive from Seattle (according to google maps)

Hyder is a true gem – and not heavily visited (yet).  I reckon during my visit, maybe only a 100 people a day manage to visit some of the glaciers mentioned in this post, and probably less than a dozen make their way over to the Granduc mine mentioned below.  Get there before the glaciers melt (all of them are retreating quickly). 

Driving to Stewart and Hyder

Neither the BC nor Alaska ferry system makes their way to Stewart, BC and Hyder, AK.  The only way to get there is by private boat, sea plane, or the most common way is to drive.  Highway 37 is the famed Cassiar Highway that’s one of the two main routes up to Alaska, but Stewart and Hyder are a 60 km detour on Highway 37A out of Meziadin Junction.  I met a few people on the Cassiar that skipped this detour and they missed one of the highlights of northern BC.    Driving Tip:  Gas is about 15 cents cheaper per liter at the Stewart gas station, rather than the station at Meziadin Junction.

Bear Glacier

The 60 km drive to Stewart is spectacular with green mountains, roaring rivers, and dozens of waterfalls.  But the highlight is the Bear Glacier.  Locals say this glacier is retreating very quickly.  I’m not sure where a person is supposed to park to photograph this glacier, as the signs claim the berm is unstable and there are no parking signs everywhere.  I pulled over to take a few photographs, but didn’t stay long. 

Hyder “Downtown”

You cross the border and you will be on Main Street Hyder.  There’s only a few restaurants, shops, and motels that are still operating.  There are a few deserted shops that obviously haven’t been open for years. 

Things to Do in Hyder – Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site (US Forests)

Hyder is most famous for the easy bear viewing, and I was hoping to get a glimpse of the Grizzlies and Black Bears that frequent the observation point to eat the salmon, but the rangers quickly informed me the salmon was not yet running a no salmon means no bears.  July 15^th is the average date the salmon start to run, and they’ve started as early as July 1 but I wasn’t so lucky on my visits on July 3 and July 4.   Unlike other Grizzly expeditions in BC and Canada that can cost thousands of dollars for a few days, this place only costs $5 to park.  Luckily, they don’t charge anything until the bears arrive, so I got to look around for free.   The best time to visit Hyder is mid July to early September, when you can see both the bears and the glaciers. 

Things to Do in Hyder – Drive to Salmon Glacier

Beyond the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site, the road turns into twisty gravel road.  There are a few interesting points along the way (pick up a free guidebook at the Stewart visitor center).  Stops include seeing the rusty mining parts at the Riverside Mine, an overlook of the active Premier Mine, and the least secure border crossing between Canada and the US (literally, it’s a sign).   Driving tips: make sure you have at least a ½ tank of gas, especially if driving to Granduc.  Make sure you down shift while driving back down the mountain, you don’t want to burn out your brakes.

Salmon Glacier

OMG!  This is one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen.  There are multiple view points as you drive up the canyon, from the foot of the glacier to the summit observation point.  The views change with the weather, and it’s worth seeing both on a cloudy/foggy day or a sunny day.  On a foggy day, the summit was under fog, but you could see the sun trying to peak out under the cloud cover from the foot of the glacier viewpoint, and the blues are so brilliant on a cloudy day.  On a sunny day, you can see for miles and really appreciate the vastness of the glacier – a sign says this is the 5^th largest glacier in North America.

Mining Road and Mining Tunnels

The road beyond the Salmon Glacier Summit observation point is an old mining road and is sometimes closed.  If you are lucky, it will be open!  If you thought the drive up to the Salmon Glacier observation point was too rough, you better not continue.  The road becomes more potholed and there are many rock falls.  That being said, if you have a couple hours to spare, this is one of the most beautiful drives I’ve ever done in my life!  Just beyond the Salmon Glacier is Salmon Lake, the lake must have already cleared during my visit, as it was mostly dry.  A highlight was exploring a couple mining tunnels.  Locals said this tunnel was 11 km long!  It was used for mining trucks in the winter, so they didn’t need to cross the pass at the Salmon Glacier Summit. 

Granduc Mine and Even More Glaciers

I continued down the pot-holed road to see the mostly deserted Granduc Mine.  The mine reminds me of Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut in Egypt.  There are a few guys still working in the area (geologists doing exploration, the owner reckons there’s a bunch of gold somewhere), but the camp looked pretty deserted.  But the highlight of driving this far is the view of the two fingers of the Salmon Glacier that merge and melt into a muddy lake below.  Further afield, there are views of other snow capped peaks and glaciers.  I sat in the quietness and enjoyed the views.  Not another tourist in sight.  I would guess less than a dozen tourists come this far each day.

Wildlife

Keep your eyes open for wildlife along the drive up to the glaciers and beyond.  There was plenty of bear scat, but unfortunately I didn’t see bears.  I did however, see many chirping marmots and the mating dance of a Blue Grouse.

Back in Hyder Town – Getting Hyderized

Now that you got that harrowing drive out of the way, it’s time for a drink.  Both of the bars in Hyder will get you “Hyderized” – they will give you a shot of mystery alcohol (but I reckon it’s Everclear in a brown paper bag), followed by a chaser of water.  The shot glasses are flipped upside down on the bar and set ablaze.  You then get a credit card -sized certificate and can have your photo taken. 

Things to Do in Hyder – Visit the Hyder Port

It’s possible to take a short drive or walk from Hyder village to the sea plane and boat dock.  I highly recommend this – the views are great!   It reminded me of the fjords of Norway.

4^th of July Festivities in Hyder

I have to admit I was a little underwhelmed by the Hyder 4^th of July festivities.  I had read about the famed days of parties from July 1 Canada Day in Stewart to July 4 Independence Day in Hyder.  But despite the small-town size, there were some fun activities.  Kids events were at noon, and the adult activities started at 4pm with ax throwing, followed by the 22^nd annual Bush Woman contest.  The Bush Woman Contest was a running game with stations that included chopping a log, casting a fishing line, scooping a bucket of water and taking it to the washing line, hanging up 3 socks, then shooting a (teddy) bear that came running from the woods.  Then running to the kitchen (a picnic table) and flipping a pancake, diapering a doll, and putting on lipstick while crossing the finish line.  It was a great spectator sport.   After having a drink with some other tourists, we watched the parade and ugly vehicle contest.  It wasn’t a very long parade, but there were some interesting “floats” that included Smokey the bear, “Newfies in Hyder” which was a bachelorette party that wore pajamas and masks, and the “Miss Hyder” pageant float  (how hilarious was the boy sitting on the back of the float hiding behind a sign that read “I’m a teenager.  The contestants are my mom, my sister, and my aunt.  Way to ruin a beauty pageant. #pleasenoswimsuits”).   There were no fireworks – with such a small population, there was no money to do fireworks.  Maybe they should start a gofundme!  The bars closed early that night, as a few locals tailgated on main street after the parade.

Crossing the Border Between Stewart and Hyder

The Stewart/Hyder border crossing might be one of the most interesting border crossings between the US and Canada.  There is absolutely no check going into Hyder (the USA), but there’s a serious check going back into Stewart (Canada).  They will ask you all kinds of questions like when did you first enter Canada, are you carrying any tobacco, drugs, alcohol, or weapons (including bear spray).  You can either drive or walk across.  This border crossing is open from around 7am to midnight, although there is a number to call to cross if needed in the night (but who wants to be the one to wake up the person who gives you permission to enter Canada?)  Make sure you have your passport or enhanced drivers license.

Where to Eat in Hyder

Sadly, the Seafood School Bus was closed during my visit, but I had a very tasty and healthy pulled pork salad at the Glacier Inn Bar and Restaurant.  They have limited hours (kitchen had closed by 8, and if you still need dinner, some cafes in Stewart stay open later). 

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Where to Stay in Hyder, Alaska or Stewart

There are several motels in Hyder and Stewart (Check Rates and Availability).  For camping, there is the Runamok in Hyder and Rainy Creek in Stewart.  The showers at Rainy Creek were smoking hot!  For free camping, I found two spectacular places.  They don’t widely advertise, but you can camp anywhere along the road up to the Glacier, including the summit overlook which has toilets.  I slept up there on a very foggy night, hoping to wake up to the view of a glacier, but it took waiting until 8am to see the fog descend into the valley for a glacier view.  If you’re looking to get into Canada so you can get an early start the next day, there is the Clements Lake Rec Site, a peaceful little lake with space for a few small vans/RVs and tents.   I’m not sure I’d camp with a tent near Hyder.  Although I didn’t see any bears there, many other tourists I encountered had seen bears, including a mother and cubs.

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