Aug 08

Palouse Photography (A Palouse Road Trip with Photo Ops)

This Palouse Photography guide shows you some of the best photo spots in Washington state.  Come along for a full day of adventure in the Palouse region on the southeast corner of Washington. This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

Map It – Palouse Photography Map!

Palouse Photography Map
Credit: Google Maps

Start in Clarkston

This Palouse Photography Driving Trip starts in Clarkston, WA.  This medium sized city has lots of choice of accommodation (Check Rates and Availability).  Or you can stay across the state border in Lewiston, ID.  (Check Rates and Availability).  Aren’t these adjoined city names the cutest – Lewiston & Clarkston?  Stop at one of the supermarkets in Clarkston to pick up some drinks and snacks.  Also, if you’re planning on visiting the two state parks in this post, you might consider picking up a Washington State Annual Discover Pass.  They sell them at Walmart for $35.  On a day Palouse Falls state park is staffed, you can purchase for $30 cash there.

Snake River Canyon – Highway 194

Snake River Canyon, Highway 194

A famous activity in Clarkston is a full day boat ride south on the Snake River Canyon.  These trips cost in excess of $200 for the day.  Follow my advice and you can save hundreds – driving north along the Snake River Canyon might not be as exciting as a jet boat (depends on how fast you drive), but the views are just as nice.  There are many places to stop along the way to do some boating, fishing, swimming, or camping.

More Highway 194 Views

Highway 194 views

Eventually, the highway veers northwest and you leave the Snake River Canyon.  You head up a wildflower filled canyon up to the plateau of the Palouse.  There are lots of Palouse Photography opportunities along here – from barns, rolling hills, artwork, and old cars gathering dust.

Pullman For Lunch and Ice Cream

If it’s lunchtime, you should stop in Pullman for lunch.  This university town has a wide selection of cuisine.

For dessert, you must head over to Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe.  It has cheese and ice cream from the Washington State University creamery.

Your Own Palouse Photography Exploration

Palouse Barn

Now you have some free time.  You want to get to Steptoe Butte State Park by late afternoon, so you have a few hours to explore.  Any of the roads between Pullman to Colfax and north are great.  Choose your own adventure.

Detour: Palouse Falls

From Colfax, it’s a 1 hour and 15-minute drive each way to the magnificent Palouse Falls.  Any serious Palouse Photographer should also stop at #thatnwbus, a deserted, spray-painted school bus.  For more info, check out my post on the Best Time to Visit Palouse Falls.

End:  Steptoe Butte State Park

Steptoe Butte View

If you’ve seen any pictures of the Palouse, they are likely to have come from Steptoe Butte State Park.  No hiking required here – you can drive all the way to the top of this mountain, where there’s parking for several dozen cars.  You can’t miss this park, as it’s the highest hill in the Palouse – almost unnatural.  The best time for Palouse Photography is during the “magic hour” – an hour or two before sunset, and at sunset too.  If you’re lucky, there will by paragliders which will give you a photo opportunity.  A fantastic end to a great Palouse Road Trip.  Watch for deer as you descend the mountain.  The State Discover Pass is required for the Steptoe Butte State Park – $10 for day or $30 for year (slightly more if you purchase at a vendor like Walmart or Fred Meyer).

Palouse Photography – Best Time to Visit

I loved my trip in early June.  Everything was so great and there were some wildflowers and amazing sunsets.  If you want to see with the yellow wheat, it’s best to visit in late summer.

Where to Stay for your Palouse Driving Trip

Serious photographers want to stay in Colfax  or the town of Palouse so they can make multiple trips up the Steptoe Butte for various times of day such as sunrise and sunset.  Unfortunately, the State park does not offer camping, so Colfax and Palouse is your closest location (Check Rates and Availability).

Love road trips?  Check out this ultimate Washington Road Trip.

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Aug 02

Tips for Overnight Camping in Van (Softcore Van Camping)

In 2018, I took the step into light van camping.  So, I googled the phrase “Softcore Van Camping” and what did I find?  A bunch of P*0*R*N.  Yeah, I guess they were doin’ it in a van (I didn’t watch – it’s just a guess!  I swear!!).  Funny enough, if I googled “Hardcore Van Camping”, there were loads of posts about people who live full time in a van, decked it all out, and usually have their own youtube channel.  Well folks, hardcore van camping is not for me, so I decided to coin the phrase “Softcore Van Camping”.  Softcore van camping is van camping part time, primarily for touring purposes, and with some creature comforts.  It’s not saving every penny by staying on BLM land and pooping in a hole I dug myself.  So, ladies and gentlemen, let me introduce you to the ABCs and 123s of Softcore Van Camping… Tips for Overnight Camping in Van, and maybe we can get the google page one to have a little more innocent content 😊

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

Equipping Your Van

Tips for camping in van
My van set up

I am not handy at all, but it’s important to be comfortable as sometimes I will camp in the van for a week or more.  So, I recommend purchasing a comfortable mattress (a real one, not an inflatable), and setting the mattress on a platform off the floor will allow you to store stuff underneath and be more comfortable for sitting.  I designed and had my brother help me assemble a bed consisting of a sheet of plywood (Home Depot cut it to my 30 x 75 inch specifications), a 4×4, and three 2x4s to build a strength frame.  Then I bought this incredibly comfortable “narrow twin” memory foam mattress.  This is such a comfortable set up – for me the most important thing to be comfortable camping in a van.

Toilets

Some people have a toilet bucket with wood chips or kitty litter and freshener as a toilet, but with my small van, I just don’t want to take up this kind of space and be transporting human waste (yuck!)  This definitely falls into the definition of hardcore van camping.  On my camping, I will go a little out of my way, or even pay a little, to have the comfort of a real toilet – be it a flush toilet or pit toilet.  I do have a receptacle for emergencies, but I haven’t had to use it (yet).  I’m totally happy to pull off the side of the road if I have to, which was common on my trips to Ethiopia and Tibet.

Showers

A hardcore van camper will take baths in lakes and rivers.  Maybe they will have a $10 membership to Planet Fitness to use the showers there.  Or they have an inexpensive solar camp shower.  I had a more relaxing plan for my softcore van camping – purchasing a pass to a lovely local pool or a hot spring every two or three days.  This gave me a chance to have a shower, relax in a pool, then another shower and shampoo before setting off again.  My favorite was finding a lovely free campsite on a reservoir but going for a nice soak at Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs.  I was so relaxed and headed to the lake to watch the sunset and get a good sleep after the hot soak.

ABC = Always Be Charging

I promised you the 123s and ABCs of Softcore van camping, so I present to you the ABC = Always Be Charging.  It was a constant battle to keep my laptop, camera batteries, and phone charged.  Any chance you have to get power, do it.  I especially liked charging my camera battery in a wall socket while watching the films at the National Parks and Monuments, like Crater Lake.  I often charged my laptop at McDonalds (see my tip below).  If I start camping long term, I might buy this solar panel + lithium battery that can be charged by solar or regular plug in.

Staying Connected

Hardcore van campers spend loads on tech gear, solar generators, etc, but I’m not technically inclined.  But, I want to stay connected.  So, I find a library or café with wi-fi when needed.  The $1 any size coffee or soda at McDonalds is one of my favorite stops – enjoy a beverage, charge all my batteries, and use the free wi-fi

Finding a place to Camp

Some campgrounds are nearly as expensive as a hotel.  If traveling with a family or a big rig that needs hook-ups, this may be reasonable but for someone in a mini-van and need for little more than a pit toilet, I usually look for a free campground or a national site with a low fee.  I found some really great free campgrounds, including the one listed above near the hot springs or the free Sage Creek campground at Badlands National Park.  I found a secret free campsite less than a mile from Mount Rushmore, and had some amazing sunrises and sunsets while parked near fishing lakes in North and South Dakota.  If you’re daring enough, you might even try overnight camping at Walmart.

Tips for overnight camping in van
Imagine waking up to sunrises like this – Sunrise at Missouri river in South Dakota

  1. Eating

Food in a can was is my friend.  If I get access to a kitchen, like at a hostel, I will boil a dozen eggs to last a few days.  I round this out with protein bars, raw vegetables, fruit, and flax seeds.  Not an exciting diet but healthy.  Every once in awhile I will splurge for a restaurant meal.  I think eventually I will purchase a cheap propane stove for cooking.

Splurge for a hotel when you need to

My final tips for overnight camping in van – After camping in freezing temps or rain or extreme heat, don’t feel bad if you need to stay a night in a cozy motel room with heat or A/C, wifi and cable.  It happens to any Softcore Van Camper!

Stay Organized

One of my top tips for van camping is to keep everything in the same place. It’s so frustrating to have to worry that you’ve lost something or spend minutes or hours searching for misplaced items. One time I couldn’t find my wallet… I searched for half an hour with no luck. I sped back to the restaurant I had visited the night before but on the drive, I remembered one spot I hadn’t checked – a pocket in my backpack that’s rarely used. Well, it was there but I probably had a few new grey hairs. I try to keep all my kitchen stuff in one place, and all my toiletries, etc.

Stay Safe

While van camping is generally safe, you can’t always stop the bad things from happening. Check out this post on solo van camping safety – this post has tips for solo or non-solo campers alike.

Check Out Some of My Favorite Van Camping Trips and Destinations:

John Day Fossil Beds in Oregon

Driving all the way across Montana on Highway 2

Camping by the Salton Sea in California

Softcore Van Camper
It’s hard to spring for a hotel when you get to camp here for free.

What do you think of these tips for overnight camping in van?  Have you tried van camping?  Do you want to?  Leave your comments below!

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Aug 01

An African Love Story (What Happened When She Got Home – Part 2)

This is part 2 of an African Love Story.  If you haven’t read it already, make sure you read Part 1 of this story entitled  “Dating an Ethiopian Man“.  The story how a woman name Jojo journeyed to Ethiopia and met the man of her dreams.

This is a really, really, really long story of what happened in the week after Jojo returned home.  If you want to read the summary and the lesson learned, hit control-F and enter “TL;DR” to go to the summary

JoJo was home for a week and she was excited to get a phone call from Getu.  That meant he had bought a smart phone.  She messaged him the next morning:

Jojo: Message me when you get Facebook messenger

Getu: I miss u I am waiting for you.

Jojo: Wow!  It works!  Great.  I miss you too.

***

Jojo was happy she could communicate with him.  She was looking at airfares for the next time she could see him but decided to wait a little bit.  A day later, she got a friend request and messenger invitation from Hannah.  She recognized the picture – this was Getu’s ex-girlfriend.  Jojo didn’t accept the friend request but she did see what was written in messenger:

Hannah: Hi.

Hannah: Hi sster getoniya wuzi my hazibad ok dote toki agen & donte sedni my hazebadc foto ok & facebook.

Jojo was uncertain what she was trying to write but it was clear when Jojo listened to a short voice mail she left…  “Scuzi… Getu my husband, you understand?  You no talk Getu.”

Jojo messaged back even though she knew who was writing: Who is this?

***

Jojo messaged Getu right away

Jojo: Your girlfriend tried to friend me on Facebook. I deleted the request.

Jojo: Are you married?

No response from Getu

Jojo:  Hannah says you are married and you lied to me.

Still no response

***

Jojo messaged Hannah:  I am sorry.  Getu told me he is not married.  I will not be with him.  Your husband is a cheater.

Jojo sent a picture of Getu and her.  Hannah sent 10 pictures back – pictures of him, pictures of her, and pictures of a sunrise.  None of the pictures were the two of them together.

Hannah: I was married before when i meet him he make me divorce i was feeling in love with him i didnt know he was a player and money person he make my life miserable don’t trust him we have a son if you don’t know.

Jojo: He told me about his son but only told me the mother of the son is married…not you.  He said he was breaking up with you because you lived in Italy and would not move to Ethiopia.

Hannah: OK

Jojo: I’m sorry.  He lied to me the whole time

Hannah: OK.  I work in Italy i buy the car for him we have ring

Take care ur self

Jojo: He said the car is his fathers. I saw the picture of the ring but he said it’s not a wedding ring.

Hannah: Yes we was together for 7 year

Hannah: I’AM SORRY TECAR IZ WIZMI &SON MOTHER MI OK AFTER 10 DY IGOTOO ETHOPIA

Hannah sends a picture of a flower and another picture of Getu.

Hannah sends a voicemail.  With an evil laugh she says “Getu loves me.  Getu hates you.  He crying.  He love me.”

***

Getu called Jojo but she missed the call

Getu:  Haw are you Jojo .to day I am in moyal no charge no net work

Jojo:  Ok.  Are you married?  Please tell me the truth.

Getu: No

Jojo:  Hannah sent me messages…Says you are married to her…You have a son together…She bought you the van

Getu:  I tell you before I have gerlferend no mereg

Jojo:  Yes, well then she is telling me lies.  Did she pay for the car?

Getu:  You don’t talk she ok

Jojo: Ok.  But can you answer some questions?

Getu:  I am tayerd NSW I am slip OK tomorrow I call u

Jojo:  Ok.  We need to talk tomorrow

Getu: Ok

***

Jojo decided to do some research.  Hannah had a public Facebook profile and she clearly had a daughter, around age eight, that was half Ethiopian and half Italian.  Hannah appeared to be married to an Italian guy who had to be in his 60’s.  The Italian guy’s profile has a picture of her as the cover picture and his status showed “Married”.  Jojo concluded that this woman had two “husbands” – her legal Italian husband named Giovanni, and her Ethiopian husband, Getu.

***

Jojo: Are you awake?

Getu: No bet the bed is not good naw in Ethiopia taim 9.34

Jojo: Can you talk?

Getu: In morning

Jojo: Ok

***

In the morning, Getu sends a picture of the sunrise, the same photo Hannah had sent a day earlier.  She has lost patience with Getu.  He’s obviously avoiding her messages.

Jojo:  Hannah sent me that photo.  I think she takes it when you were together.

Getu: Stil Naw She is etali

Jojo: Yes, but she sent me that photo yesterday.  When does she come to Ethiopia?

Getu: I do’t knaw

Jojo: She says she comes in 10 days

Getu: I doknaw

Jojo: Is she the mother of your son?

Getu: No jojo

Jojo: Does she pay for the car?

Getu: No

Jojo:  She said she works hard in Italy to pay for the car…And she comes to Ethiopia and sells the car in 10 days

Getu: No jojo

Jojo: She says many times you are husband and you buy rings

Getu:  Alls you writ is rong

Jojo: This is what she writes to me…How many years have you been with her?

Getu: No

Jojo:  How many years? 1? 2? 8?

Getu:  No years she stay three menthes her for menthes ther

Jojo:  But how many years are you with her?  When do you meet her?  She sent a voicemail laughing at me, saying you are crying and you are saying you love her and she is your wife.

Getu tried to call Jojo but the connection was bad.

***

A day later, Jojo woke up to a message from Hannah:  Askuzmi good morninig

Jojo:  Who is Giovanni?

Hannah: I was married giovani 8 year a go i went Ethiopia

Jojo meant to message to Getu but accidentally messaged Hannah: She answered that the Italian guy she divorced 8 years ago

Hannah: Yes.  Now am free

Jojo:  I thought you married to Getu?  That is not free

Hannah: Yes

Jojo: You can have Getu. I don’t need a driver from Ethiopia.

Hannah: Getu is My driver the car italian guy buy for me and am going to ethiopia december 10 i wil sale the car.

Jojo:  Hahaha

Hannah: You and Your friend are getu

Jojo: What?

Hannah: Are getu lover

Jojo: I don’t love him now

Hannah: Getu call me yesterday and tell me that two of you are in love with me 

(note from the author: it took me days to figure out what she was saying here, but she was saying that Getu told Hannah that both Jojo and her European friend Heidi were both in love with him, as he had friended both of them on Facebook, making Hannah suspicious)

Jojo: I don’t love him now

Hannah:  Ok   Where are you from?

Jojo: USA.  Do you have any picture of your son?

Hannah: No this is my new telphone when go to ethiopia i wil send you the picture of My baby

(note: what kind of mother who daily posts pictures of herself and her daughter has no pictures of her son?)

Jojo: Did you know Getu has a new phone?

Hannah: Yes.  I no

Jojo: Did you buy it?

Hannah proceeds to send random pictures to Jojo of African tribal people.  Jojo does not reply but the pictures amuse her.

***

A day later, Hannah writes again…

Hannah: Hi.  Good morning getu called me yesterday and told me you and your friend are too old i just want to collect money from them only

Hannah send the thumbs up symbol

Jojo: Ok. Soory.

Knowing that Hannah is at least partially lying, she sends another photo of her and Getu in the park.

An African Love Story

Hannah doesn’t like this so she sends a picture of Ethiopian Birr (the Ethiopian currency) to make her point that Getu only wanted money.

Jojo gets even more enraged.  She had been playing fairly nice, so she decided to be a bit mean…

Jojo: Hahahaha…guess he didn’t get any money.  How much money did you get from Giovanni? It must be lucrative to have a baby

 Hannah: Getu called me yesterday and told me that is me that he love that he just want to collect money from you and your friend so you have to be careful am telling you this because am woman too

Jojo:  Yes, he won’t get any money

Jojo: You must have got a lot of money from your old husband.

***

Jojo had enough and wanted to end the messages.  She clearly was never going to see Getu again so she decided to say goodbye to Getu and she tried to convince Hannah that she could have him.

***

Jojo sent screenshots of the money message to Getu

Jojo to Getu:  Goodbye

Getu: Ok

Jojo:  Have a good life.  Hannah loves you.

Getu: I also

Jojo: Don’t lie to tourists again and have relationships with them

Getu: Ok

***

Hannah:  Hello my ss 10q ino avertegi naw bet mi iforget my hazibadi ok.  You are my gud sester ok beta getu badi gayes.  Ani was ibirgi may kar &sell iforget getu ez tefi ok tker evin you

Hannah: Hi. Getu called me now and told me that your are 50 years old that you are too old for him

Jojo:  I am 44.   

Hannah: He really loves me I know that

Jojo: Good for you. You can have him. You can both lie to each other for the rest of your lives.

Hannah:  He was just 2 days with you so that will not continue!

Jojo:  Hahaha, is that what he told you?  We spent 16 days together.  We wnet in the car to.Hawassa where we spent 4 days. He took the bus to addis Ababa where he.spent my last 2 days in Ethiopia.

Hannah:  I know that your good person! And I know that he lied to you and to me too so I don’t want him either with just a taxi driver I had enough money to live my life .

Jojo:  He took me dancing in Arba Minch and we see your frienfs and also see your friend st the kake on Sunday afternoon.  He called me his wife. He said we would live in Hawassa.  But i don’t want him. I have a lot of money but i don’t want to share any with him.  He is a liar. You can have him if he loves you.

Hannah:  No.  Thank you very much he is a liar . he told me that he was drunk and slept with you and you dash him and you work with him that you bring tourist to him.  I don’t have any with him

Jojo:  But je loves you, and you are married, and you have son together. Stay together for the son.

Hannah:  I’m really sorry to disturb you ! Your so kind person and I learned a lot about him thank you for everything , I wanted to go to Ethiopia be of him but no more for him . I was there 2 months ago and we were living together but he leid to you and he lied to about you now so I will stay far from him !

Jojo:  Please do it for your son. I didn’t know he was married so forget about me.

Hannah:  Thank you very much my family is important to me

Jojo:  Stay with him and don’t sell the car.  I.don’t talk to him again, I sent him a message : goodbye.

Hannah:  Your are a good person thank you please send me another picture ask evidence so that when i go to police i use to collect all my property that is with him even my house

Jojo:  I don’t have any more.   (author note:  Jojo lied, she had many pictures of herself with Getu)

Hannah:  Thank you very much you are a good person he is calling me now but I listing to him any more because he is a liar and bad person nothing good is coming from him

Hannah:  Good morning you are beset he call me she is old I don’t like you getu false boy

Jojo:  He tells me he loves you. I don’t talk to him again.  Here is my last message…he says he loves you…i told him to have a good life with you.

Hannah:  Thank you very much for your kindness! I highly appreciate your honest about the information!! Warmly thanks

Jojo:  He loves you, don’t divorce him . I don’t even talk with him on phone for many days and never again

Hannah:  Thank you very very very much you are good peorsen &my good sster ok by

 Jojo had enough of this conversation and she decided not to write back and considered blocking Hannah.

***

A day later, Hannah makes contact again.

Hannah:  Hi.  Great babye!!!   Ok bet sedim your oiture i miss you my aer

Hannah:

Hannah:  U know I love you right?

Hannah:

Hannah called Jojo but Jojo didn’t answer.

Hannah: Hey how are you, I am sure that you are doing great. But that guy is crazy and mad dog still he is writing me message and photos even with out clothes. And he is talking about I love you still now he is talking that I can’t be be with others without you I think he is not normal man. But you don’t keep me silent even if I will come to Ethiopia please talk to me we should have to solve it no need of talking to him.

Hannah:  You are a good girl but I am angry for what he told me about you. He said to me that I need only money and and as he hate you. Really I am not jealous about your love but even I finished my money. But you please as much as possible talk to me because you are a good person even you don’t have any problem. I am living in Italy now I have also Italian passport after I will go to Ethiopia I will come to America please say hi to me. Thanks

Hannah:  Still day and night he is calling me day and night even I don’t wanna go to Ethiopia cause my daughter is in Ethiopia that is why I have to see my daughter. I am sure that one day we will meet at America even you will show me your country.

Please don’t give him even your friends telephone number he said that as your friend also loved him and also she said that I will send you money. Please take care for your self and your money he is money lover.

Jojo had enough and immediately blocked Hannah.

***

Jojo remained a Facebook friend with Getu.  A couple weeks later, he started posting pictures of Hannah.  And that was that.

TL;DR – An African Love Story Summary

A few days after she returned, Jojo got a message from a woman claiming to be Getu’s wife.  They messaged back and forth.  “Wife” claimed son was hers and Getu said he hated Jojo and only was with her “to extract money”.   Hannah sent random gifs and even a dirty picture of Getu.  Jojo had to block her when Hannah started sending love notes and saying she wanted to visit her in the USA.

What Jojo Learned

Jojo was sad that she hadn’t met the love of her life, but she was happy she didn’t get more involved in this mess.  Jojo had good memories of her time with Getu.  She had experienced a side of Ethiopian culture she wouldn’t have seen as just a tourist.  She tried many Ethiopian foods that most tourists wouldn’t dare to try.  She hadn’t sent him money or spent over $1,000 on airfare to visit him again.

***

A foreign woman in Ethiopia and an Ethiopian man doesn’t seem super common – Jojo only noticed two such couples while traveling around the entire country, and one was clearly a Rastafarian from Shashamane.  Jojo had been to other places where traveling woman and local man relationships have been much more prevalent so she thought her relationship with Getu was special.

Jojo spoke to another woman who had been dating an Ethiopian Man and there were some common aspects.  Some of these actions may be innocent, but they may also be red flags you’re falling for a love scam:

  1. He moves really quick – he holds your hand and kisses you on the day you meet
  2. He tells you he’s in love with you in after a few days
  3. He is younger and better looking than you
  4. He says he wants to be with you forever and suggests you should move to Ethiopia
  5. The Orthodox faith is important in Ethiopia and it is customary to wear crosses and pray every time they go past a church.  He acts very religious too, and this helps convince you that he is a Christian man and certainly isn’t a liar or cheat.
  6. He constantly pays for meals and drinks – he seems to have an unending amount of money. But he happily accepts money if you slip it to him to pay.  It’s important for men to pay in their culture.
  7. He drinks beer daily, but says he doesn’t normally drink.
  8. He has Facebook pictures with women – local or tourists – and maybe even a ring that looks suspiciously like a wedding ring but he explains it’s just a plain ring.
  9. He introduces you to his family after a short period of time. This is usually in his family home, so you can see how modest they live.
  10. He tells you one thing and then the story changes later. This could be for unimportant things.  For example, Jojo was originally told his parents were visiting his sister in the US, but later he told her they had returned 2 months prior.  Jojo may have misunderstood but there were other benign stories where similar discrepancies appeared.

Have you dated an Ethiopian Man?  Or have your own African Love Story?  Leave your comments below.

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Jul 25

Dating an Ethiopian Man (An African Love Story – Part 1)

The following is a story about dating an Ethiopian man.  Names and some details have been changed to protect the innocent/guilty.

Once upon a time, there was a woman traveler named Jojo.  Jojo was a single woman who had been around the world a few times but always looking for her next adventure.  Jojo had met Heidi, a European woman, on a traveler companion site on the internet and they agreed to travel to southern Ethiopia together.

The two women caught the bus to Arba Minch, the major city in the south.  The bus stop was chaos.  People lining up to grab bags, several tuk tuk taxi drivers trying to coax tourists and locals alike into their rides.  The girls were waiting patiently as Jojo was approached by an Ethiopian man named Alex.  Alex  offered his guiding services and agreed to show them a budget hotel nearby and tell them what they could do on a tour.  He seemed nice and knowledgeable, so the girls agreed to hire him for the next four days.

The next day, Jojo and Heidi met Alex at the appointed time and got in a huge van with a driver named Getu.  Jojo hopped into the front seat and noticed Getu right away.  Over the day she noticed how quiet and shy he was but his smile and laugh melted her heart.

They spent the day driving to the Omo Valley and stopped to photograph animals and people.  They stopped at a market with beautiful Hamar people that maintain their incredible customs.  They continued to drive to Turmi, a small town of a few hundred people that served as a commercial center for many Hamar tribes.  They checked into 4 rooms at a little guesthouse with cement block rooms and an outhouse.

They all went for dinner and Alex led a lively conversation.  When he suggested going barhopping, Jojo and Heidi jumped at the chance to check out the Saturday night nightlife of this little town.  They drank beers and danced.  Jojo noticed Getu shake his head “no” when a gorgeous Ethiopian woman asked him to dance.  Later it dawned on her that this might have been a prostitute.

The four dancers decided to check out another bar so Getu and Jojo set off to the next bar.  As they walked quietly down the middle of the wide main street, Getu took Jojo’s hand.  Jojo was surprised but didn’t take her hand away.  They walked a bit farther and turned around to see if Alex and Heidi were going to join them when Getu leaned over and gave Jojo a kiss.  The kiss was magic – standing in the middle of the wide gravel road with the dark sky sparkling with stars and a chorus of frogs chirping all around them.  From this moment, Getu and Jojo would be inseparable… Jojo started dating an Ethiopian man.

Getu was upfront about a couple things.  One is that he had an 8-year old son.  Another is that he had a girlfriend for 3 years, but she had been living in Italy and was not moving back to Ethiopia so he said that they were breaking up.

The next two days were a flurry of activity – visiting tribes and markets throughout the Omo Valley, and enjoying great meals, company, and nightlife.  Heidi and Jojo were having such a fun time, they agreed to extend their fun tour to eight days, traveling to the markets, villages and game parks of the Omo Valley.

Dating an Ethiopian Man

They returned to Arba Minch and Jojo contemplated her next move.  With the tour over, she bought a bus ticket for the day after tomorrow and prepared to spend her last day with Getu.  The guys took the ladies to the disco that night and Jojo danced with Getu, swaying and singing the words of Ed Sheeran’s “Shape of You” and meaning every word.  Getu taught Jojo how to dance Tigray style (a style practiced in northeast Ethiopia) and they were all smiles as they shrugged their shoulders to the beat of the Tigrayan music.  Later that night, Getu said “I love you” for the first time, and Jojo learned the Amharic words “ewadi sha-low” meaning “I love you”.

The next day, Getu and Alex offered to take the women for a relaxing day at the park, so they bought some wine and honey wine and headed to the lake.  The lake was busy on Sunday – lots of locals go there to drink beers and chew khat, a mild drug.  They were pleasantly surprised to see a wedding party arrive and the guys told the girls about wedding customs.  All four were sad they were parting ways the next day – Jojo was heading to the far northwest to meet friends in a few days and Heidi was on her way to the northeast of Ethiopia.  Jojo went to the bush to find a toilet and when she returned, Alex, Heidi, and Getu had devised a plan – Jojo would stay in Arba Minch and ride around with Getu as he drove van for the next few days – this would allow him to work and her to spend more time with him.  Jojo agreed to stay, as her friends weren’t going to arrive for several days.

Later that afternoon, Getu had to pick up some laundry so he took Jojo to his family home.  He introduced Jojo to his mother and explained that his father was on a business trip to Addis Ababa.

Getu and Jojo met with Heidi and Alex for their last night.  There were lots of tears that night – Jojo said goodbye to Heidi with hopes they would meet again.

Dating an Ethiopian Man

Jojo met Getu the next morning thinking they would be driving back to Jinka with a van full of locals but he suggested a different idea – they would head north to Hawassa.  Hawassa was a lakeside city and Getu had previously lived there when he was playing football.  Getu had previously told Jojo that his father was the owner of the van so there was no problem for him to take it for a few days.

Getu picked up a bunch of Ethiopian tourists in Arba Minch as Jojo occupied the front seat and they headed to Hawassa.  It was pouring rain when they arrived in Hawassa, but the next four days were sunny bliss.  The next four days would also be some of the most romantic days of Jojo’s life.  They spent the days walking around town and sitting by the lake enjoying the wildlife.  One morning he took her to the fish market.  At night, they would go to the lake for sunset.  Getu introduced Jojo as his wife everywhere they visited, and she didn’t mind.  Jojo thought the Ethiopian women were so pretty and she commented “konjo”, the word she had learned for “beautiful”.  Getu looked her in the eyes and said “you konjo” and gave her a delicate kiss.

They spent much time talking about their lives and looking pictures of their family and friends on their Facebook accounts.  They spent time talking about their future – maybe Jojo could move to Ethiopia and live in this lovely city of Hawassa.  They made tentative plans for Jojo to return in April for Ethiopian Easter and to celebrate both of their birthdays as they were only 8 days apart.

Sadly, it soon was time to say goodbye.  Jojo needed to meet some friends in a northern city for some touring around the northern circuit of Ethiopia.  Getu drove her to the airport.  The goodbye was difficult.  Jojo cried very hard but she entered the airport hoping to see him again.  The security guard was concerned by her teary eyes, but Jojo convinced her she was OK.

Jojo spent a couple weeks traveling around the north with her friends but called Getu daily and missed him dearly.  She mentioned him to a few Ethiopians, such as guesthouse owners and guides and they often asked “Are you sure he’s not married?”  Apparently, it is not common for a 37-year old Ethiopian Man to be single.

Jojo wanted to see him again before she left.  The airfare tickets to return to Arba Minch were expensive and would only allow her another day with him when she got a great idea – he could take the bus up to Addis Ababa for her last two days in Ethiopia.  He said yes immediately when she suggested the idea and she was elated.

So, they enjoyed two more days together and she introduced him to her friends from home.  Saying goodbye a second time was easier but she still felt sad leaving Ethiopia and Getu behind and heading to Djibouti for another week of vacation before going home.

He called her and left a message the night she arrived home.  He had purchased a smart phone, so they could use messenger and call.  His previous phone was a cheapie with no wi-fi features.  She started looking at airfare to Ethiopia for April because she was determined to see her love again.  She was Googling things like “Dating an Ethiopian Man” and “Marrying an Ethiopian Man”.  Most of the info she found online was about dating and marrying Ethiopian women.

What do you think?  Should Jojo have seen any red flags?

Read the shocking conclusion to Dating an Ethiopian Man.

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Jul 24

Best Time to Visit Palouse Falls and ThatNWBus

I’ve been fortunate to visit Palouse Falls on several occasions over the last 12 years.  If I had to pick the best time to visit Palouse Falls Washington, I would say spring.  When visiting Palouse Falls, don’t forget to visit That Northwest Bus, aka ThatNWBus. Read this guide for other tips in visiting Palouse Falls.

What is Palouse Falls?

Best Time to Visit Palouse Falls

Palouse Falls is the official state waterfall of Washington State.  Up until 10 years ago, it was a remote state park outpost but due to Instagram and state promotions (cover of visitor’s guides and naming it the official waterfall in 2014), Palouse Falls State Park is growing in popularity.

Palouse Falls Location

Map credit: Google Maps

Palouse Falls is in the southeast part of Washington State.  The weather east of the Cascade Mountain range is typically sunny (they proudly advertise 300+ days of sun) but have extreme temperatures – both hot and cold.

Best Time to Visit Palouse Falls – the seasons.

Late Spring Wildflowers at Palouse Falls State Park
  • Winter can be blustery cold. But, this also means the spray of the falls will freeze and present a fantastic winter view.  I haven’t visited at this time, but hope to this coming winter.
  • Spring is arguably the best time to visit Palouse Falls. The weather is mild, and the falls are at their highest volume.  The surrounding basalt canyon is turning green with plant life.  The grasslands around the falls bloom with wildflowers.
  • Summer has clear blue skies, and still some wildflowers, but it can be very hot – it’s not uncommon to have temperatures higher than 100 degrees Fahrenheit, at feels 5 degrees hotter than that due to humidity.
  • Fall is another great mild time to visit, but it’s generally drier during the fall. There are sometimes fire warnings in the area due to dry conditions.

Other Things to Know about Palouse Falls

Palouse Falls Danger Sign
  • The viewpoint of the falls are very close to the parking lot, very little hiking required
  • On summer weekends, there’s now a snack truck serving hot dogs and Hawaiian Ice.
  • There have been a few Palouse Falls deaths in the previous years, and there are warning signs all over the place. These deaths occur from people hiking on the cliffs around the falls and swimming.  Both of these activities are discouraged by park signs and staff.
  • Entry to the state park is $10 per day or $30 for an annual state Discovery Pass. If staff is on hand, they sell these passes, but cash only.  If you’re thinking about purchasing an annual pass, it’s $5 cheaper here than buying if from one of the authorized pass dealers like Walmart or Fred Meyer.
  • Cool fact: in 2009, someone ran a kayak over the falls to be the highest kayak drop over a waterfall.
  • The waterfall is surrounded by a Basalt canyon.
I call the Basalt formation the Shark Fin

Check out Palouse River Canyon

Palouse River Canyon

It’s possible to do an 8-mile hike along the Palouse River Canyon.  But be prepared – there are falling dangers all along this trail and it’s not for the faint-hearted.

 Don’t forget to visit ThatNWBus

ThatNWBus #thatnwbus
Who the heck is Amanda?

Until early 2018, there was a deserted school bus near Palouse Falls, In 2018, it was moved to the Northeast corner of the intersection of Highways 26 and 261 on the north end of Washtucna, WA.  Until recently, you could still see the original school bus yellow paint, but now it’s been completely spray painted inside and out.  It’s an instagrammer’s dream – don’t forget you hashtag – #thatnwbus!

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 Best Time to Visit Palouse Falls – Lodging Near Palouse Falls and Where to Stay

The area around Palouse Falls is very remote.  The closest town with any selection of hotels is the charming town of Dayton, WA which is located 45 minutes south of Palouse Falls.  Dayton is a great stopping point if you’re on your way to the wine regions of Walla Walla.   Stay at the excellent Weinhard Hotel in downtown Dayton (Check Rates and Availability).

If you’re tent camping, it’s possible to spend the night at Palouse Falls for a camping fee of only $10.  However, if tent camping, you MUST sleep in a tent.  Anyone caught sleeping in a vehicle is subject to a huge fine.  Alternatively, there are a bunch of free campsites along the Snake River north of Starbuck, WA.

Do you agree that Spring is the best time to visit Palouse Falls?  Leave your comments below…

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Jul 17

Best Time to Visit Badlands National Park + Free Badlands National Park Camping

Badlands National Park is such a wonderful spot in South Dakota.  Did you know there is now free Badlands National Park Camping?  Here’s the best time to visit Badlands National Park and the story of my night at the free campground along with pictures to inspire your trip to the Badlands.

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All photos in this post taken by Lumix Superzoom fz80 camera.

Best Time to Visit Badlands National Park

The best time to visit Badlands National Park is late August through September, with the couple weeks after labor day, when all the kids are back in school, being my favorite time. In July – early August the park is very hot – often in excess of 100 degrees. The park and it’s campgrouds are extra busy in early August since many motorcyclists are on their way to and from the Sturgis Rally. While I like the temperature in the Spring, it’s much more common to get heavy rainstorms and even hail. Read below for the story of a massive thunderstorm to shut down the campgrounds when I visited in May of one year. June is another good time to visit because the park is green after all the rainfall of the Spring.

The “Other Campground”

There are two campgrounds in Badlands National Park.  Cedar Pass campground is near the Badlands visitor center on the east side of the park is now run by a concessionaire.  This one is appropriate if you need RV hookups, flushing toilets, and a convenience store nearby.  If you’re relatively self-sufficient, you can head over to… 

Sage Creek Campground – Free Badlands National Park Camping 

Free Badlands National Park Camping
The view from my campsite. Yes, those are bison in the distance.

Sage Creek Campground is located on the far west of the park.  Once you leave the road that connects Wall Drug to the more visited east side of the Park, the road turns into gravel.  The Badlands formations become sparser and the grasslands dominate.  You will see many Bison grazing in the west part of the park.

Eventually you’ll get to the turn off to the only free camping at Badlands National Park (other than areas in the grasslands just outside the entrance).  This is Sage Creek Campground.  There is no water, but there are two pit toilets.  There’s also a few picnic table, some under shade pavilions.  Prairie dogs live on the outskirts and you will probably see bison too.

This camp is great for those tent camping or boondocking (camping in a vehicle without hook-ups).  There’s even space for horses.  Unlike many national park campgrounds where you have your own pullout, picnic table, and fire ring, this camp has cars and RVs parked on the side of the road, and tents set up on the lawn.  Due to the tight spaces, this is a super social campground, I had the chance to meet several campers here.

If you get to camp early enough, you can kill some time by taking one of the footpaths in the hills surrounding camp.

The BIG Storm

Sage Creek Campground
The storm approaching. You can see the bathroom facilities and other campers in the background.

It was a beautiful sunny day during my visit to the Badlands, but it was getting darker as I approached the campground in late afternoon.  By evening, the most ominous cloud was forming to the southwest.  I set up my camp chair with some friendly campers with some wine and we watched it come closer and then start to sprinkle.  Everyone retreated to their RVs or cars or vans or tents.  And it rained, and rained and rained all night long.  The rain stopped by morning, but when I stepped outside the van, my flip flop smooshed into 2 inches of mud.  The road, the lawn, all the earth was soft and muddy.  I was so glad I wasn’t on the ground in a tent.

I met some people at Devils Tower a few days later and they said most of the main campground was closed due to flooding the next night, so the free Sage Creek Campground isn’t the only one exposed to crazy rainstorms.

Like tent camping but hate to be on the ground?  Check out this combination tent & cot (aptly called a “cot tent”.  Before I started van camping this was my go-to tent.

Is Sage Creek Really Free?

It’s free, but you should self register.

Yes.  It was when I visited in mid-May 2018.  However, as of June the park reports overcrowding due to popularity, so this may be changing soon which is sad, because this one of a few drive-in free National Park campgrounds in the US.  Back country camping is always an option.

 Badlands National Park Photos – Photos to Inspire Your Trip

There was so much to see on the scenic drive Badlands National Park…

If you visit in late spring, watch for wildflowers.

Badlands National Park Wildflowers
Badlands National Park Yellow Hills

So many of the Badlands are the same color, but in the central part are these colorful formations, reminiscent of the magnificent Painted Hills in Oregon.

Baby animals are the cutest.

Best Time to Visit Badlands National Park
Mother and Baby Bighorn Sheep

Or are these tiny burrowing owls cuter?  The one in the hole looks surprised.

Badlands National Park Burrowing Owls

Bison roam the western part of the park, including the Sage Creek Campground.

Bison
Bison, looking constipated

I’d never seen an American Badger in the wild, until I saw this guy in the western part of the park.  It was incredible waiting for a minute, seeing dirt being pushed from the hole, and then the badger would take a peek, and see me, and go back in.

Badlands National Park American Badger

 Best Time to Visit Badlands National Park

The best time to visit is the Spring and the Fall.  Summer is a bit too hot for me.  Winter is especially cold.  Be aware that Spring can bring big storms, like the night I had in Sage Creek campground.

Badlands National Park Hotels – Alternatives to Free Camping at Badlands National Park

 Not a camper?  The closest hotels near Badlands National Park are in Wall, South Dakota (Check Rates and Availability).  Here you can also visit the famous Wall Drug.

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Jul 12

Best Free Things to Do in the Black Hills

There are 100’s of attractions in the Black Hills, South Dakota trying to separate you from your money during your Black Hills vacation.  This has become a midwest tourism mecca since it is near Mount Rushmore.  A few things are worth it.  But there are also a few free things to do in the Black Hills.  While all these locations are technically free, most of them rely on donations and purchases in their shops and cafes.  Please give them your patronage.  These are the best free things to do in the Black Hills:

Mount Rushmore

Mount Rushmore is arguably the most famous site in the Black Hills.   Although it costs $10 to park at the site, there is no entry fee and the visitor center and programs there are all free.  If you’re willing to walk, there is a parking lot less than 1 mile west of the monument and you can walk in to save the $10.  Alternatively, there are some places where the monument can be viewed for free, including in the turn out between Keystone and the park, and from the tunnels on the Iron Mountain Road.  See more info on photographing & the best viewpoints of Mount Rushmore.

Free Things to Do in Rapid City SD – Free Rapid City Attractions

 Fort Hayes

Fort Hayes, South Dakota

Fort Hayes was a set for the movie Dances with Wolves.  Now it’s a Chuckwagon Show and gift shop.  There’s a fee for the dinner and show, but you can walk around the set for free.  If you arrive before 11 am, you can have all you can eat pancakes for 99 cents.  Coffee, juice, or sausage is extra.

 Chapel in the Hills

Chapel in the HIlls roof

Chapel in the Hills is a Lutheran church that’s a replica of an actual Stave church in Norway.  The surrounding gardens are beautiful, and you can take a short hike on the meditation trail behind the church.  Make sure you visit the grass roofed gift shop to buy Norwegian items.  Chapel in the Hills is located on the west outskirts of Rapid City.

 Storybook Park

This park is only open from Memorial weekend to Labor Day weekend.  A theme park dedicated to children’s tales, it appears the target audience of this park are young children.  The park is located between downtown Rapid City and the Chapel in the Hills.

 Dinosaur Park

Dinosaur Park, Rapid City

This park is unmissable as you can see the Apatosaurus on top of the hill from many points in Rapid City.  Several dinosaurs overlook the city, and there are nice views of the city and west from here.  The park is on the list of National Register of Historic Places.  Gift shop is jam packed and you can buy inexpensive hot dogs, ice cream cones, and other snacks.

 Geology Museum

Geology Museum Rapid City

If you like fossils and rocks, this is a great stop, located on the campus of the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology, just a bit east from downtown Rapid City.  Have the kids pick up the scavenger hunt.  I loved the florescent rocks that glow under black light.  You can purchase rocks from South Dakota and beyond at the giftshop.

Free Things to Do Near Mount Rushmore – Free Black Hills Attractions

 Cascade Falls South Dakota (not the more famous one in NY)

Cascade Falls

If you’d like a free soak, you can go to Cascade Falls, located about 10 miles south of Hot Springs.  It may be one of the smallest waterfalls in South Dakota!  Although the water here is not warm, it’s very clean spring water.   It would feel especially nice on a hot day.  You can also stop at the Cascade Springs, the origin of the water, which is located about a mile north.  This is a real hidden gem in the Black Hills.  Get there before it is Instagram (too) famous.

 Prairie Berry Winery

Prairieberry Winery Red Ass

Where I live, it’s unheard of to get a free wine tasting.  Most are $10 now.  So, I was surprised when I went in the Prairie Berry Winery in Hill City, SD and they told me I could try 6 wines for free!  If you like sweeter wines or fruit wines, you’ll especially like this place, but they have a few dry wines.  Their specialty wine is the Red Ass wine – 90% rhubarb and 10% raspberry.  They also have a restaurant and deli if you want a picnic with your wine.

Spearfish Hatchery

Spearfish Hatchery

One of the nicest hatcheries I’ve ever visited.  Includes a historical museum and gardens.  Make sure you don’t miss the underground viewing area and feed the fish.

 Spearfish Canyon Waterfalls

The Spearfish Canyon drive is one of the most scenic drives in the Black Hills.  There’s free parking if you want to do the short hikes at Roughlock Falls or Bridal Veil Falls.

 Lead Museum

Open Mine in Lead South Dakota

Check out the incredible view of the open gold mine in Lead, SD.  The museum contains interesting info on the days of gold mining as well as information about how this area has been re-purposed and re-branded as the Sanford Underground Research Facility.  Watch the short videos to learn more about dark matter and neutrino research – if it’s not completely over your head!  They have some cool stuff in the gift shop.

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Free Things to Do in the Black Hills – Where to Stay 

There are loads of towns to stay in the Black Hills.  The Black Hills are pretty spread out, so it depends on what sights you want to hit.  Here are some cities I recommend:

Are there any other must-do free things in the Black Hills or near Mount Rushmore I missed on my list?   Please leave your comments about things to do on a Black Hills Vacation below.


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Jul 06

Best Time to Photograph Mount Rushmore + Best Viewpoints of Mount Rushmore

Mt Rushmore is probably the most photographed site located in South Dakota.  This is a guide to the best time to photograph Mount Rushmore, as well as some of the best viewpoints of Mount Rushmore. Note: all photographs on this page are unedited and uncropped to give you an idea of what the lighting is like at different points in the day. If you see pictures online of lit up faces with the sunset in the back, it is heavily photoshopped.

 Best Time to Photograph Mount Rushmore:

Morning

Best Time to Photograph Mount Rushmore
Morning View of Mount Rushmore

If you only have time for one visit, you should visit in the morning as this is the time the east facing presidents are lit.  It is the best time of day to visit Mount Rushmore to get your shots of the faces. At sunrise, the faces can have a pink glow.  I was told the monument was not open until 6am, but when I visited around that time, the gates to the parking lot were open so I suspect parking is free before 6am and the monument can be visited.  In early morning, there’s a sharp shadow on Theodore Roosevelt but the other faces are bright.  This shadow shrinks throughout the morning.  By 9am, the tourist groups start arriving and it can get quite busy.

Afternoon

Afternoon View of Mount Rustmore

As the afternoon goes on, the faces get darker as the sun goes behind the mountain. 

Sunset

Sunset view, the hill on the right is Mount Rushmore

I was looking forward to sunset but was quite disappointed.  There’s no light on the presidents’ faces and the mountain is too high to get a good view of the sunset.  I even drove to watch the sunset from a higher point on Iron Mountain Highway, but it wasn’t the best view. 

Night

Pictures of Mount Rushmore at Night
Mount Rushmore at Night

This is my second favorite time to visit.  The monument is awash with white light after dark.  I like the Mount Rushmore photos best just before it gets completely dark.  From Memorial Day weekend through September, there’s a nightly Mount Rushmore lighting ceremony.  It’s very patriotic.  There’s a video shown in the amphitheater, and then they turn on the lights. This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

Best Viewpoints of Mount Rushmore – the best Mt Rushmore Pictures

There is no Mount Rushmore entry fee, but there is a $10 parking fee.  The good news is that this pass is good for one year, tied to your license plate number, so you can visit at different times during the day to get the best Mt Rushmore pictures – all of your Instagram and family Mount Rushmore photos. 

With the $10 Mount Rushmore Parking Fee:

  • The Mount Rushmore Visitor Center – take the stairs or elevator down to the visitor center. There’s a movie and plethora of other information about the history of the area, the rock, and the construction.  Floor to Ceiling windows give one of the most close, direct views and there’s a plaza outside.
  • Avenue of Flags – as you approach the monument from the parking lot, you can take shots of the faces between the 50 flags. There is a plan to redesign this area.
The Avenue of Flags at Night
  • Presidential Trail – This is an easy to moderate trail down to the rock fall under the monument. A chance to get up-nose shots.
  • Amphitheater – the further down in the seating, the more up-nose shots you can get.
View from the Amphitheater
  • Near the Artists’ Studio – there’s a viewing terrace just up from the studio that has a nice view of the monument with framing by trees. 
Mount Rushmore framed by trees

Without paying a Parking Fee:

  • The pull out between the town of Keystone and the entrance – there are a few spots on the way up to the monument. It’s not possible to park on the opposite side of the road at this spot so stop on the way up.
  • The Profile – one of my favorite views – the profile of George Washington. You can access this spot from a pull out and small parking lot less than one mile west of the main entrance.  A couple favorite times to shoot – at nighttime, it’s lit.  At sunset, the face is dark, but the rock on the backside of Mount Rushmore has a sunset glow.
George Washington Profile at Dusk
  • Iron Mountain Road – Road Tunnels. There are several tunnels on Iron Mountain road and two of them have great views of Mt. Rushmore.  There’s a couple parking spots near each on the southern end of the tunnel so you can stop to get pictures of the mountain framed by the tunnel.
Mount Rushmore framed by tunnel
  • Iron Mountain Road – Norbeck Pass. At the very top of the pass is a great, if a bit distant, viewpoint.
View of Mount Rushmore from Norbeck Pass
  • Iron Mountain Road – Meadow.  As you drive towards Custer State Park from Norbeck Pass, you will see a meadow on your left with the last grand view of Mount Rushmore as you descend the road to Custer Park. 
View of Mount Rushmore from Iron Mountain Road meadow

Where to Stay When Visiting Mount Rushmore

The closest place to stay is the town of Keystone, SD.  There’s a large choice of hotels and lots of shops and restaurants.  Especially handy if you’re staying for the lighting ceremony and if you want to visit the National Monument at various points in the day.  Check Rates and Availability Now.

Do you know of any secret spots to photograph Mount Rushmore?  What’s your favorite view of Mt Rushmore?  Leave your thoughts in the comments below.  And check out these free things to do in the Black Hills.

Best Time of Year to Visit Mount Rushmore

The best time to visit is the shoulder seasons – like May-June and September-October. Not that the lighting show doesn’t start until the weekend of Labor Day. Mount Rushmore is busiest in early August when the annual Sturgis motorcycle rally takes place, it’s best to avoid in the days before and after the rally as hotels are full and the best sights are very busy.

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Jul 03

What is Wall Drug? (333 Billboards outside Wall Drug, SD)

What is Wall Drug?  It’s a drug store and restaurant and gift shop mall and tourist trap on I-90 just outside Badlands National Park in the little town of Wall, South Dakota.  For many of us, it’s a reminder of our childhood – long car trips on I-90 out west.  It’s the capital of KITSCH!

The Billboards

What is Wall DrugDepending on your route, you will likely see 100’s of Billboards extoling the virtue of Wall Drug:  Free Ice Water.  5 cent coffee.  All Roads Lead to Wall Drug, Wall Drug, as featured on the Today Show.  336 miles to Wall Drug.  Have you dug Wall Drug?

The billboards are predictably, located on I-90 starting 100’s of miles before Wall Drug, but I also saw signs in the middle of Wyoming on roads not headed directly towards Wall Drug.  There are also international signs! One could only guess how many signs are out there.  How many billboards does wall drug have?  It’s sort of like guessing how many gum balls are in a jar.  My guess – 333 Billboards outside Wall Drug!      Edit:  So I chatted with the PR folks at Wall Drug and they said officially there are 300 paid billboards for Wall Drug.  But there are many other billboards that aren’t official.  So now you know!

 The History

Wall Drug opened around the time of the depression, in a poor little town.  But it also opened around the time that Mt. Rushmore was completed.  This was a lucky break.  They had the genius idea to put up billboards and offer free ice water to travelers on the dusty roads.  This drew in the tourists on their way to Rushmore who bought ice cream cones or other goods, leading to the huge growth of the store.  Many more billboards were added after this, to spread the word.  You can read the full story in a brochure in the café.

 Main Street

Wall Drug is located on Main Street of Wall, SD among a few other businesses that have sprung up to attract visitors.  There’s loads of parking on main street, and a big gravel parking lot just a block away (follow the signs). 

The Café

Biscuits and GravyAfter a night of camping in the pouring rain in the Badlands and waking up in 2 inches of mud, I was ready for a hot breakfast and coffee.  The café opened at 8am and I ordered the special of biscuits and gravy with a cup of 5 cent coffee.  I was amazed by the large number of apparent locals skipping breakfast and sipping 5 cent coffee as they spread the town gossip.  No money made on them.  I found the prices reasonable to a little high for the middle of South Dakota. 

Shops

Wall Drug MallThere is no shortage of shops at Wall Drug.  You might be surprised what you can find from western wear to gems to shot glasses to books.   Get your South Dakota Stickers and South Dakota Magnets here.

The Chapel

The folks that started Wall Drug were Catholic and the mall includes a quiet chapel.

The Backyard

Jackalope Wall DrugThe backyard is filled with all kinds of kitschy stuff – like a plastic Mt Rushmore, a cymbal playing ape, and a great big jackalope.  Great for your Instagram shots. 

T-Rex

T-Rex Wall DrugThere were several billboards that mentioned the T-Rex feature.  This guy resides in the back building and eats every 12 minutes.    Reminds me of Jurassic Park.

The $$$

Zoltar Wall DrugEnticed by the 5-cent coffee, I headed into Wall Drug and I left about $12 poorer (but with a new refrigerator magnet and a belly full of biscuits).  You need to keep an eye on your friends or family members if they are shop-a-holics, there’s loads of stuff to buy. 

Where to Stay

There are several hotels in Wall, SD (Check Rates and Availability).  This is a great gateway to the Badlands National Park, which is worth a day of your vacation.

 

If making your way through Wall, SD, make sure you don’t miss visiting the incredible Badlands National Park.  

What is Wall Drug to you?  Have you been to Wall Drug?  What’s your favorite thing about it?

Want a reminder of your youth?  Check out the myriad Wall Drug memorabilia available:


 

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Jun 25

Best Time to Visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park + Wildlife You Can See (Bison, Bighorns, and Bird Mating Dances)

Theodore Roosevelt National Park (or some as some people call “Teddy Roosevelt National Park”) is arguably the best destination in North Dakota.  With amazing rock formations and wildlife, it’s one of my new favorite national parks and on my early May weekend visit, found it was easy to get away from it all.

This post contains affiliate links.  If you found this information useful, consider using the links to support this website which earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.

All photos in this post taken by Lumix Superzoom fz80 camera.

Best Time to Visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park

The best time to visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park is between late Spring and early Fall.  Look at these advantages of visiting Theodore Roosevelt National Park:

  • Winter isn’t the best time.  Roads, if open, can be icy and it can be very cold and windy.
  • Spring is a great time to visit.  Temperatures are a little cooler.  There’s lots of space in the campgrounds, although the water isn’t turned on but that means you can camp for half price!  Wildlife abounds and if you’re lucky you can see the Grouse mating dance (see later in this post).  Kids aren’t out of school so it’s especially a quiet time to visit.
  • Summer is also good.  It may be very, very hot (exceeding 100 degrees), but temperatures may be reasonable too.  If you want to take advantage of all the things on offer around the Roosevelt National Park, summer is the time to visit.  The Park ranger programs are in full swing and when visiting the South Unit, you can attend the spectacular Medora Musical.
  • Fall is similar to Spring, smaller crowds and cooler temperatures. 

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Wildlife

The park is split in two parts – the South Unit and the less visited North Unit.  It’s worth visiting both units.  For me, the wildlife was really a highlight, so now I present the Animals of Theodore Roosevelt National Park – Where to See Theodore Roosevelt National Park Wildlife: 

Western Meadowlark

Western Meadowlark

This colorful songbird can be found all over the western USA.  The park is a great place to spot them.  Not only pretty, these birds have an incredible song. 

Wild Turkey

Wild Turkey

This is another bird common in the western US.  These birds can be seen roaming both the North and South Units. 

Sharp Tailed Grouse

My favorite of the birds in Theodore National Park was the Sharp Tailed Grouse, a bird that was new to me.  I saw a few of these in the day, but the best show was at sunrise.  Spring is the mating season, and they hang out in a mating space, called a “Grouse Lek”.  The males show of their fluffy tails and purple pouches on their necks, while they run around with their feet moving like jackhammers and wings outspread.  I’ve never seen anything like this and it was incredible.  Watch this video I took of the male grouse beating his little feet. 

Wild Horses

Best Time to Visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park

It’s possible to spot the famous Theodore Roosevelt National Park wild horses, or feral horses, but only in the South Unit.

Mule Deer

There are loads of Mule Deer from the Dakotas to Montana.  You need to be careful while driving, especially at dusk.  Driving in Theodore National Park is no exception.  These deer can be found in both units. 

Pronghorn Deer

I can imagine this park was the inspiration to “where the deer and the antelope play…”.  Pronghorns, aka American Antelope are the most graceful animals.  One of my favorite.  They can be seen throughout the park and all over Montana, Wyoming, and the Dakotas. 

Bison – aka Buffalo

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Wildlife

Bison, often called Buffalo are abundant in the park.  It’s amazing there used to be 60 million of these in the North American plains.  It’s great we have parks like Theodore Roosevelt National Park and Yellowstone where Bison can roam.  Bison can be seen in both units, but I saw larger herds in the north. 

Bighorn Sheep

Consider yourself lucky if you get to see the Bighorn Sheep in Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  They live in the cliffs of the north unit and sometimes hang out on the ridge near the park road.  Most of the folks I met hadn’t seen them, but I saw two groups of them late one afternoon. 

Coyote

Coyote in grass

The Coyotes and Foxes like to hide, but I saw this guy from a far distance (think a football field away) early one morning.   This picture would make an maddening puzzle, wouldn’t it?

Prairie Dogs!

Prairie Dogs

Prairie Dogs are fun animals.  Kids and adults alike will love watching their antics.  These animals are not dogs, but actually rodents.  There are several Prairie Dog towns in each unit, but the ones in the north unit require hiking.  There are a couple towns next to the main road in the south unit.  The towns are indicated on the maps provided at entry to the park. 

Burrowing Owls – aka False Prairie Dogs

Burrowing Owl

OK, these owls are not actually called False Prairie Dogs, but that’s my name for them, as that’s the trick to seeing them.  The Owls live in holes near the Prairie Dogs, and the owls are the same height as an upright prairie dog.   And they’re as cute as a button.  Every time I stopped at a Prairie Dog town, I kept my eyes open to see if Burrowing Owls were nearby.

Where To Stay –

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Camping

Both the north and south units have campgrounds.  I prefer the less hectic campground in the north unit.   Both are $14 in season and $7 if you visit out of season (when the water is off and there is only pit toilet).

Camping Near Theodore National Park

Alternatively to staying in the park, the CCC campground is just south of the entrance to the north unit and costs only $6 per night.  There are also free places to camp in the National Grasslands between the two units but you will need to be self sufficient (no toilets).

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Lodging:

Medora is the natural choice, located next to the South Unit entrance.  There are only a couple hotels and they can be pricey in season (Check Rates and Availability).  If looking for a wider range of hotels, Dickinson is less than 15-mile detour on the road from the South to North Unit (Check Rates and Availability in Dickinson).  There are no hotels near the North Unit, unless you go much further north.  Williston is a good choice (Check Rates and Availability in Williston).

Also see:  What to do with one day in Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Check out one of my other favorite sites to view wildlife in North America – Grizzly Bear viewing in British Columbia.

Have you seen another animals and wildlife in Theodore National Park?  What’s your favorite National Park for wildlife?  Leave your comments below.

Make sure you check out the other fun things to do in North Dakota!

Not only does TRNP have fauna, but it has great flora too!  Wildflowers abound if you visit at the right time, but it was early in the season (May) so the best flowers were the lovely Prairie Crocus.  Check this one out:

Prairie Crocus Theodore Roosevelt National Park


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See the amazing wildlife of Theodore Roosevelt National Park... Bison, Bighorns, and mating Birds.