West Coast Swing (Destination: Port Alberni and Pacific Rim National Park)

We used Port Alberni as our 3 night base for the west coast for several reasons.  First, the hotels were about $40 a night cheaper here than they were in Tofino.  Second, I had found great reviews for the Riverside Motel and found a great room in this remodeled single story motel.  Our room actually had two rooms and a kitchenette.  One room was the dining area and a queen bed and TV.  The second room was another queen bed and access to the bathroom.  This was a great set up since I was sharing rooms with my parents – we each got our own rooms!  In addition to the kitchenettes, we also had access to a grill and patio table and chairs outside.

While checking in, I inquired about getting a salmon dinner and the lady said that there was a local Salmon Festival going on about 3 blocks from the hotel!   So we walked over and had a full salmon dinner for about $10 with the locals.  We listened to some strangle live music, and saw a 66 pound salmon, which was the winner of the biggest fish contest.  That thing was huge!

The next day was our trip to Pacific Rim National Park.  The weather forecast showed clouds and rain all day and unfortunately was correct.  At some points it was dry, others sprinkling, and other times were downright pouring.  Despite the gloomy views we saw tide pools at low tide at Chesterman beach,

Did a couple short boardwalk hikes,

The next time I visit the Pacific Rim, I’ll go Camping in Tofino.  From Tofino we drove to Uclelet to visit the lighthouse

We drove back to Port Alberni and I dropped my parents at the German restaurant while I watched the black bears across the river from the quay.  I had read that bears often frequent this spot and I did see a bear come out of the wood, snatch a salmon out of the river, and retreat.

The next day, we went back to the quay and hung out with the local older guys that go there to shoot the breeze and watch the bears every morning.  There was more bear activity this day.  One bear walking solo and eventually 2 bears wrestling.  It’s amazing they see this every day in September.

We headed to the port for our all day ferry ride to Bamfield on the west coast.  We boarded the Francis Barkley ship for a 3 hour ride up the fjord.  Wildlife like bears and eagles were seen enroute.

This was a working ship so we dropped off mail and packages to floating homes and villages on the route.  This is the only floating post office in Canada:

We made another drop at this oyster farm:

Bamfield is the northern end of the southern part of Pacific Rim National Park, and the ending spot of a famous, wild hike.  We had 1.5 hours to do what we wanted so my mom and I hiked over Brady’s beach.  The sun was shining and the beach was beautiful.  There were some tidepools that contained purple and red urchins and orange and purple starfish.

Purple Urchin

Back in town, there was time to walk the boardwalk.  We saw the famous Bamfield cat houses

Bamfield Cat houses

And the famous 2 story outhouses.

The captain of the Francis Barkley had heard reports of whales in the area so as we left we sought out this humpback:

I spent quite a bit of time talking to a volunteer on the boat.  The local chamber of commerce has 2 volunteers on the boat each day in the summer.  I think I found my post-retirement gig!

Overall this day on the boat was great.  They have a kitchen and cook with reasonable prices on breakfasts, burgers, and drinks – even beer and wine.

We still had a little daylight left so we headed over to Stamp Falls to see the salmon ladder.  The falls weren’t very impressive but it was cool to see the 100’s of salmon working up the energy to head up the salmon ladder.

Best Time to Visit Butchart Gardens

When is the best time to visit Butchart Gardens? Each season has it’s pros and cons, and different flowers blooming at this world class garden.

What time of day is best to visit Butchart Gardens?

I particularly like the afternoon light, which is great for photography. I also like visiting the gardens at night as many parts of the garden are lit and there are typically less crowds. If possible visit both in day and night time.

Butchart Garden in Spring
Butchart Gardens blooming tree with snow

Spring

Butchart Garden in March 

March has the early blooming flowers like crocus and daffodils. There’s a chance for snow in March, and you can get a view like above, fresh snow in the green grass, with the beautiful blooming trees. Spring is the rainiest time to visit Butchart Garden, and you may even be so lucky or unlucky to see snow. You can get some amazing pictures of early spring flowers in the snow.

Butchart Garden in April

April is the best time to see tulips and the daffodils continue to bloom. If you really want to see some tulips in this region, catch the ferry over to Anacortes to visit the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival. April continues to be rainy.

Butchart Garden in May

May is warmer, but is usually rainy. The tulips are in bloom and the Rhododendrons are a real highlight – Butchart gardens has an extensive collection.

Summer

Summer has the best weather but it’s the busiest time to visit. Try to avoid visiting when there is a cruise ship in the port of Victoria, sometimes they visit in the day and sometimes in the evening (departing at midnight)

Summer Concerts and Fireworks

Butchart Garden Fireworks show
Unique fireworks show at Butchart Gardens

If you want something more than roaming around the gardens, the best day of the week to visit Butchart Gardens is a Saturday in the Summer. The gardens feature a free concert, followed by free fireworks show, followed by an organ concert. You can also see the gardens lit up after dark. Insider tips: Arrive early as traffic gets really heavy before the show. Set up your chairs for the fireworks in the afternoon, then go get your picnic dinner for the concert. When the concert is done, head over to your spot for the fireworks.

Butchart Gardens in June

June has the longest days and weather getting warmer. There are often rainy days but many sunny days too. Peonies and Fuchsia are blooming and of course the roses are in bloom in June!

Butchart Gardens in July

The summer flowers are in full bloom and July has some of the sunniest days of the year. All the extra options are available in Butchart Garden including boat rides and concerts. If you can, visit on a Saturday to catch the amazing fireworks show.

Butchart Gardens in August

August is similar to July, with all the extra activities from concerts to fireworks. Expect sunny days and perfect weather.

Fall

Butchart Gardens in September

September is a great time to see the late summer flowers like daisies. By mid-September, you will see the start of fall colors in the trees. The Japanese Maples are especially pretty.

Black Eyed Susans welcome the beginning of fall.

Winter

Butchart Gardens in December

In December, the gardens are opened for the celebration of Christmas. Butchart Gardens features carolers, skating, and lots of twinkling lights.

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Where to Stay when Visiting Butchart Gardens

The best place to stay is downtown Victoria, BC where you can walk to many restaurants, bars, and attractions. Check Rates and Availability in Victoria.

How to Get to Butchart Gardens from Victoria

The cheapest way to get to Butchart Gardens is to take Bus #75 which runs from downtown Victoria to Butchart Gardens. Alternatively you can take one of many tours and shuttles, ask at your hotel.

Is Butchart Gardens Worth It?

Butchart Gardens is one of the nicest gardens in the world. It’s a definite must if you are in Victoria. But, I highly recommend it as a day trip from the city of Vancouver as part of a Vancouver itinerary.

Exploring Vancouver Island

There are so many things to do on Vancouver Island beyond Victoria and Butchart Gardens, some recommended activities:

When do you think is the best time to go to Butchart Gardens? Click on the image to save to pinterest:

Best Time to Visit Butchart Gardens

How to Spend a Long Layover in Mexico City

On the way back from Cuba, we had a 9 hour long layover in Mexico City.  With this length of layover, it’s very worth a trip into the city. Here are the details on how to spend a long layover in Mexico City.

Getting From the Airport to Mexico City

It is possible to catch the subway to the center of the city, but I highly recommend taking the blue metro bus.  The cost is 30 pesos (about $1.50 each way).  We were told to buy the tickets at the airport on a non-refundable 20 peso metro card but it appeared we would have been able to pay cash on the bus.

The bus was nearly empty and we drove by many full bus stops but the locals were all waiting for the 5 peso buses.  We got off near the Post Office, but there are several other stops one could use.  If a person wanted to get off and enter at the same spot, the Belle Artes would be a reasonable place.

Post Ofifice

We first stopped at the magnificent Post Office.  Christmas season was near so they were putting up a fanciful tree.  It felt so weird to see this decadence after 2 weeks in Cuba.  The Christmas trees there looked like throw aways.

Mexico City Post Office Christmas

Belle Artes museum

We went over to the Belle Artes museum but the line was crazy long so we decided to head over to the Zocalo.

Yeah, after seeing that line I wanted to run too!

Churches of Mexico City

We walked down the pedestrian shopping street and had our own food tour of Mexico city.  We stopped into a church where the nuns were selling homemade flan.

Street Food

I had a passion fruit popcicle at the ice cream shop and we stopped at the most amazing taco restaurant at address 7 near the Zocalo.  The line was 30 people long so you knew it had to be good.  The line moved fast and for $1 I had 2 small tacos with unlimited toppings – sauces and pickled vegetables.

The Zocalo

We walked around the Zocalo and they were setting up for Christmas season here.  The giant Christmas tree was obviously sponsored by Coca-Cola, with ornaments in the shape of bottle tops and others with the Coke polar bear.

It seemed like some day of the dead displays were coming down in time for Christmas.

Cathedral

The local cathedral was beautiful.  Gold plating, lots of worshipers.

Aztec Shaman

Behind the cathedral was this Aztec shaman who could clear you aura for a fee.

We ate another snack that was basically a giant single tortilla chip with toppings.  So spicy and so good.

Mexico City Sears Department Store – Best View in Mexico City

We walked back to the Belle Arte Museum and the line was even longer.  There was a multi-storied Sears department store opposite the museum so we headed up the escalators to the top floor where we had an amazing view of the museum.  There was a coffee shop there but all the outside seats were full so we decided to head back to the airport.

At the airport, I had time to check out the Aeromexico lounge on my Priority Pass.  There was a wall full of refrigerators with almost any drink you wanted… Mexican cokes, juices, flavored coconut water, and a variety of Mexican beers.  The bar served wine, mixed drinks, and fancy coffees.  There was a buffet of food but it was kind of weird stuff and we had eaten so much on our informal food tour of the city.  The lounge also had free wifi that wasn’t available in the rest of the airport so I got to make a skype call to family since I had been disconnected for 2 weeks.  This was a good end to a good trip.

I had traded money in Havana and had about $25 in Mexican pesos, but found that I was left with more than $10 at the end of the day despite our food tour of the Mexican capital.

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Going Dutch (Destination: Galle)

Galle, Sri Lanka was just a short distance by bus from Mirissa.  It’s a walled Dutch city with some interesting historical sites and definitely worth a stop.

After an amazing lunch at the locals market, we walked around the town to see the main sites such as the lighthouse:

Mosque that was formerly a church:

City walls:

Old Dutch church:

Train station:

We caught the train along the coast to Colombo.

I Colombo we switched trains to Negombo where we enjoyed our last evening before our flights home.

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Life’s a Beach (Destination: Mirissa)

Mirissa was a tourist town on the south end of Sri Lanka.  It had a nice wide beach, nearly a Km long, and lots of guesthouses, hostels, bars, and restaurants along the beach.

Both Carl and I decided it wasn’t our scene so we set off on foot to find a better place.  We headed north to check out the port and then saw a sign to the “Secret Beach”.  We walked thru a neighborhood where several kids were yelling “give me pen” until we found the cute little beach with cold beers and a nice view.  We were hooked and we spent the rest of the afternoon here. Thinking about visiting this beach? Check out this Secret Beach Guide.

For dinner that night, Doug’s driver had given us the tip to eat at the Weligama Bay Villas hotel that was just a little further from Secret Beach so we headed over with plenty of daylight in time to see the WBV’s private beach – everything that Mirissa Beach is not.

The Weligama Bay Villas restaurant was on a peninsula that housed a lighthouse.  I sipped a beer as the sun went down.  And then our dinner arrived… fish masala and a crab curry.  The food was great and atmosphere was even better.  And then the bill came – $17 total for two large beers and 2 entrees – what a steal.  I can’t imagine what something like this would cost in Hawaii.

The next day we set out with Raja and the Whales in search of Blue Whales, the world’s largest whales.  It wasn’t long until some of the people that avoided the free seasickness pills were puking in the ocean – it wasn’t very pleasant.

Finally, after a couple hours the captain heard news of some whales so we sped towards the location.  There were lots of boats there and eventually we were amongst the last 2 boats.  We discovered that blue whales aren’t that interesting to watch, they spout and show their backs but we didn’t see any breaching or whale tails.

The total whale watching trip was way longer than it was supposed to be since we had to go so far.  It was an exhausting day.  With our couple hours of daylight left we went back to Secret Beach and then caught the sunset on the way back to Mirissa.

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Bundala National Park (Going to the Birds)

There are many wildlife parks in Sri Lanka and each one seems to have it’s own specialty.  Some have lots of elephants, some have a small chance to see leopards, and others have birds.  The most famous park on the southern coast is Yala, but I had read that it’s a zoo with dozens of jeeps driving around to get the best view of wildlife, so we decided to go to Bundala National Park which was famous for birds but also was known to have larger animals.

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Where I stayed

We organized our tour thru e-mails with the owner of Lagoon Inn, and we couldn’t have been happier with this place.  This place is a great value with great views.  We were the only guests at the Inn and the owner’s wife cooked us a wonderful noodle lunch and since we had over an hour until our Bundala National Park Jeep Safari, we walked to the edge of the lagoon and watched all of the amazing birds and vehicles trying to cross the flooded road.  Book it here.

The Bundala National Park Safari Tour

At 2pm, the guide for our afternoon safari picked us up at the Lagoon Inn and we set off for the Bundala National Park headquarters where we had to pay Bundala National Park entrance fee.  The total of the jeep and fees was about $30 per person for a four hour tour and it was well worth it.  We saw a total of 3 other jeeps the entire afternoon so it really felt like we had the park to ourselves.

Animals we saw included elephants:

Monkeys (two types):

Deer:

Buffaloes:

Monitor Lizards:

Crocodiles:

Rabbits:

Sea Turtles:

And many, many birds – the famous Bundala National Park Birds…

This guy bit off more than he can chew:

This was really a Bundala National Park Birdwatching tour more than anything.  The most amazing were the peacocks that roamed all over the park.  The males were putting on a show for us:

In addition, we saw a boar and mongoose that I couldn’t capture on film.


Dinner and Nightfall

We went back to the Lagoon Inn and had a great Rice and Curry dinner with many curries and ice cream for dessert.  We didn’t ask the price of the meals but when we paid the bill for our abundant lunch and dinner next day, we were only charged $6 each.

After dinner, we sat out back and watched the fireflies in the garden until the bugs got too wicked.  I retreated to my room to hid under the mosquito net.  This translucent little gecko in my room didn’t bother me much.

The next day, we went to the lagoon and it was even more flooded today and the morning tours to the park were cancelled – so lucky we had gone yesterday.

The owner of Lagoon Inn showed us where to catch the local bus so we caught 2 buses from Bundala National Park to Mirissa.

Tea Time (Destination: Haputale)

The town of Ella is THE place for backpackers to stay.  Similarly, Nuwara Eliya is THE place for the package and luxury crowd.  The village of Haputale is half way between, literally and figuratively.

Hapatale is situated in the center of lots of tea fields.  Our guesthouse had this view the first morning:

There is a mosque as well as this cool Hindu temple.

On our first day, Carl and I met our friend Doug that was staying in the fancy place in town and we drove to Ella.  We did the hike to the top of Little Adam’s Peak.  This hike is very easy, but you can make it a little harder by scrambling to some of the viewpoint around the hill. This is the one of the best areas for trekking in Sri Lanka.

We stopped into a resort for a beer and to watch the lizards.  They guide told us these where chameleons but I suspect they’re just lizards.

We stopped in town for a nice lunch in a very backpacker-y café. There was an ad to take a cooking class there, and it’s one of the best things to do in Ella. After lunch, we were driven back to Hapatale as Doug and his driver were headed to the beach for a couple days.

Carl and I caught a moto taxi out to St. Benedict’s Monastery- Asisham.  The gardens were lovely and you could tour a few rooms and buy tropical fruit jams made by the monks.  There was an eerie fog over the Monastery, made for interesting scenery.

By the time we got back to town, the fog had lifted a bit so we went walking in the fields below ABC Guesthouse.

The next morning, we got up early to catch a tuk-tuk up to Lipton’s seat for the sunrise.  This is one of the highest points in a large tea plantation and the site of Mr Lipton’s favorite view.  The problem about the weather in this area is that the mornings are clear-ish or cloudy but by afternoon it’s either foggy, rainy, or both!  But this morning we were lucky and got to see a sunrise and a rainbow.

There were only a few other groups up there for sunset and they all took their tuk-tuks back, but we walked down the hill thru the plantations and workers and small Tamil villages.

As you walk down, there are sayings by Mr. Lipton painted on plaques throughout the tea fields.

Our final Haputale destination was the Dambatenne Tea Factory, a working tea production factory under the Lipton brand and a couple hours walk down the hill from Lipton’s Seat.  To tour the facility, you pay $2 and you are required to wear booties, a lab coat, and a hairnet.

The tea process was interesting but the most interesting part is they just pile dried tea on the floor and sweep it into piles before it eventually gets bagged up.  From the factory, you can ride the bus back to Haputale town with the factory workers.

Our next stop would be a national park on the south coast of Sri Lanka.  Research said we’d have to take 3 different buses to get there so we decided to pay the owner of ABC guesthouse to drive there.  He kindly stopped at the Ravana Ella Falls for a nice view and a cold drink.

Sri Lanka Tea Train (Choo Choo with a view view)

One of the famous activities in Sri Lanka is the Sri Lanka Tea Train thru the hill country and tea plantations.  It’s one of the best things to do when touring or backpacking in Sri Lanka.

The Sri Lanka Tea Train leaves from this great train station at Peradeniya Junction outside of Kandy.

We “splurged” by buying the first class tickets for the Raj car.  The cost was a whopping $17 for a full day ride, and it included meals.

Despite the “first class” moniker, the seats were worn, and the air conditioning unit above my seat was emitting a constant drip.  So it wasn’t long until I grabbed one of the few bench seat on the open part of the car.  Minutes later they served a curry chicken meal with a cup of water.  Not bad for train food.

I enjoyed sitting in the open air car.  The temperature was nice, the air was fresh, the scenery was gorgeous, and it was fun to wave at the locals as we went by.   At mid afternoon, the train attendants came by with hot tea.  How great to sip my tea and watch the tea plantations go by.

Besides us, and a family from Australia who were originally from Sri Lanka, the train car was completely full of Chinese tourists.  Almost all of them slept the entire ride.

Eventually, our friend Doug boarded the train at N.E. – just in time for the rain, cold and dark.  There weren’t may people on the train.  Most had gotten off.  So we hung out in the car portion of the train, had our sandwich and dessert (included in the price of the ticket), and watch a movie in the local language.

The train ride was one of my highlights of Sri Lanka.

If you want to see what it’s like to ride one of the lower classes and on a sunny day (it was cloudy and rainy the day we did it) check out this other blog on taking the train from Kandy to Ella.

Kandy’s Sweet, Destination: Kandy

Leaving the Cultural Triangle, we made our what thru the spice plantations.  We stopped at one where we got a free tour to see, taste, and smell lots of lovely plants and spices.  And then given a chance to purchase some overpriced spices ourselves.

As we continued to Kandy there were some interesting things to see.

In Kandy we parked the car so we could see the major sites.  We had a very cheap lunch at a diner recommended by our drivers.

The Temple of the Tooth is a temple that houses the tooth of Buddha.  This tooth has been thru a lot to get here, including being smuggled in a woman’s hairdo.

That evening, we went to a packed cultural show that had dancing, acrobats and fire walking!

By 9 pm, the driver dropped off Carl and I at our cute guesthouse in the hills of Kandy and we said goodbye to Cindy who had a flight very early in the morning.

The botanical gardens was just a walk down the hill from our guesthouse.  There were some great trees at this park.

The gardens had some wildlife too.

And the flowers were colorful, especially the orchid house.

Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa (Sri Lanka Cultural Triangle)

The Sri Lanka Cultural Triangle is a must visit on any trip to Sri Lanka.  I was traveling with 3 friends for the first part of the trip so after arrival in Columbo, and a stay in Negombo for the night, we headed off to the the Cultural Triangle the next morning.

But before the ancient sites, of course we had to stop for King coconut water by the side of the road:

Dambula

Our next stop was the temples at Dambula

There are lots of monkeys there.

The cave temples are great.

Sigiriya

By afternoon we got to Sigiriya.  The most popular site is the UNESCO city on the top of this big rock.

We started the climb up many steps and saw these famous fresco paintings in a cave.

At the half-way point, there is a place to rest and there is the official “foot” of the mountain.

The stairs take you farther up and finally you have some great views at the top.  See here for more tips for climbing Sigiriya Rock.

Polonnaruwa

The next day we were driven to the second point of the Cultural Triangle, Polonnaruwa.

This place is most famous for it’s carvings.

We saw these mongooses running around the site.

Plants were taking over some of the site.

There were frescos too.

On the drive back to Sigiriya, we saw this guy on the road.

And then a little later we came to a clearing and saw lots of Elephants.  What a surprise and treat!

There are lots of stands selling ripe mangoes for pennies by the road.  If you have your own transportation it’s worth a stop.

Later that night, us girls went to the spa for an Ayurveda massage.  It was a nice place but way more expensive that it should have been in Sri Lanka but we were there to treat ourselves since it was Thanksgiving night.  The steam and massage were OK, but the Ayurveda oil was not pleasant.  The drip, drip, drip on my forehead was annoying and uncomfortable and then they came in and massaged all the oil in my hair.  It took weeks for all that oil to wash out!

But at least we enjoyed our Thanksgiving dinner and guesthouse gardens the next morning.

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Where To Stay in Sigiriya

Lal’s Homestay   Really great meals made by Lal’s wife.  Book it now at booking.com.

We chose to get private transportation for this part of the trip, but did you know Sri Lanka is great for backpacking?  Check out this backpacking guide.