Dec 24

Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes near Niland, CA

The Salton Sea is a truly fascinating and unique place.  The Salton Sea Mud volcanoes, also known as the Salton Sea Mud Pots, are an incredible natural phenomenon that contributes to the fascination of the area.

What is a Mud Volcano or a Mud Pot?

Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes

Mud Volcanoes are created from mud seeping from the earth.  Sometimes the drying mud will form volcanic cones, and the seeping mud may look like oozing lava.  Mud Volcanoes can be found only in areas where petroleum deposits and geothermal activity is present.  The mud volcano seepage can range from nearly freezing to hot.   Mud pots are the similar, but they might just be pools or mud that hasn’t formed a volcano.

No Trespassing Signs & Safety

Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes No Trespassing Sign

Before you visit Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes, you should be aware the volcanoes are on private property.  Since 2016 or so, there are signs on the road that warn “No Trespassing. Violators will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.”  While staying extensively in the area, I asked other visitors and locals if they had visited the area.  Approximately 1/3 had never heard of it, 1/3 were too scared to visit (scared to be shot or prosecuted), and 1/3 had explored the volcanoes, but done so respectfully and safely by not disturbing the volcanoes.  Do know that if you visit the mud volcanoes, you are in a geothermic zone, and there is much soft mud around, especially after a (rare) rainstorm.  This mud is extremely sticky and when wet it’s almost like quicksand.  You may lose a shoe!

What You Will See at the Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes

Salton Sea Mud Pots

The Salton Sea mud volcanoes are located in the geothermal area that surrounds the Salton Sea.  These particular volcanoes aren’t too high, perhaps 10 feet (3 meters) at the highest.  As it had rained about 10 days before my visit, the mud was dry enough to visit.  There was a bit of flowing “lava” mud, but you could see it was drying faster than it was flowing.  There were a couple colorful, bubbling pools and a makeshift trail to the top of one of the more active volcanoes.   The mud volcanoes overlook one of the Salton Sea Geothermal Plants. 

The Mud Bubbles

If you’re lucky, you will hear gurgling and see large (approx. 1 foot in diameter) mud bubbles forming and then exploding and spraying mud.

Salton Sea Mud Pots
Mud bubble ready to pop.
A mud bubble, mid POP!

Where are the Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes?

From Niland, you go south on Highway 111 and turn right onto McDonald Road.  McDonald is recommended as it is partially paved.  Then turn left on Davis Road and the volcanoes are immediately on your left.  They are on Davis Road between McDonald and West Schrimpf Road.  On Google Maps, the mud volcanoes are named “Davis-Schrimpf Seep Field”.  However, follow my instructions to avoid driving on gravel the whole way.

Mud Volcano Map. Source: Google Maps

What Else to See Near the Mud Volcanoes

Red Hill Marina

The mud volcanoes are very near Red Hill Marina (a defunct marina due to the recession of the Salton Sea).  From the marina, you can also the Sonny Bono National Wildlife Refuge where you can see many birds and talk to the biologists on staff.

Best Time to Visit the Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes

The best time to visit mud volcanoes is late November to late March.  My visit in December had sunny skies and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.  Spring and Fall is also pleasant but there are more insects.  Traveling in summer can be incredibly hot, with regular temperatures around 125 degrees Fahrenheit. I would not advise visiting shortly after a rain storm as the field will be incredibly muddy (sure, I get it that you’re here to see the mud but getting your shoes ruined isn’t fun!)

Salton See Mud Volcanoes – Where to Eat

If you’re in Niland, CA, you must eat at the Buckshot Restaurant.  This Mexican/American Restaurant has great breakfasts, burgers, and Mexican food.  For breakfast I recommend the breakfast burrito.  Don’t miss the salsa – they make several flavors in house and the verde salsa is so tasty.

Or you can head down to Calipatria to the south to eat at the Donut Shop – they have burgers, pizzas, Mexican food, and of course – donuts!

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

Salton Sea Mud Volcanoes – Where to Stay

There really isn’t anywhere recommended to stay in Niland, CA, unless you want to camp over in Slab City.  But there are a few places to stay within half an hour of the mud volcanoes:

  • 30 minutes south is Brawley.  There are several good motel choices in Brawley, where you have access to lots of restaurants as well.  (Check Rates and Availability)
  • 30 minutes to the north is the Fountain of Youth RV Spa.  You can tent, van, or RV camp at this all ages resort with 2 pools, 4 hot tubs, steam room, great showers, and loads of activities.  Highly recommended.  (Check Rates and Availability) 

Other Places in The World You Can See Mud Volcanoes

  • Azerbaijan.  These are becoming some of the most famous mud volcanoes in the world.  These volcanoes are located in an oil feed and the mud flows greasy.  Look at the photos here.
  • Colombia.   The mud volcano near Cartagena is so large you climb it via stairways and take a bath in the mud and even get a massage.  See me soaking in the mud here.
  • Kyrgyzstan.  I found these tiny mud volcanoes by accident when camping in western Kyrgyzstan.  But I almost saw myself get stuck in the mud.  Read about it here.

Want to know more about the Salton Sea? Check out this Salton Sea Itinerary.

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Dec 20

Oahu North Shore Self-Drive Trip (from Honolulu or Waikiki)

In November, I was in Oahu, Hawaii on a cruise ship, so I had limited time to see as much as I could – from 8 am to 10 pm. Follow this Oahu north shore self-drive itinerary to see some of the highlights of this circle Oahu route, making a counterclockwise trip around the eastern half of Oahu.

Pick-Up Your Rental Car

There are many car rental offices around Honolulu and Waikiki.  There are many cars available at the airport,but renting from one of the offices in town may save money as there are no airport taxes added.  Make sure you understand the return rules – not all offices allow after hour returns. 

Nu’uanu Pali Lookout

Oahu lookout

Upon leaving Honolulu, you’re going to head up Highway 61 towards the east coast.  The first stop on this Oahu North Shore drive is Nu’uanu Pali Lookout. There is a $3 parking fee at this viewpoint.

Byodo-In Temple

Byodo-In Temple

Visit this Buddhist Temple at the foot of the mountain and the top of a vast cemetery.  The gardens and temple are peaceful (except when someone gongs the prayer bell). Amazing amounts of Koi fish in the ponds are happy to each any fish food you provide (sold in the gift shop).  Entry to the temple and grounds is $5 per person.

Mikolii (Chinaman’s Hat), view from Kualoa Regional Park

Chinaman's Hat Oahu

Pull into Kualoa Regional Park for a very good view of Mikolii Island, a rock formation also known as Chinaman’s Hat.  This park has free parking and has great picnic facilities and a beach with calm waters.  Perfect for a little swim or kayaking.

East Coast Beaches

Some of the most picturesque beaches on Oahu are on the east coast.  Stop and take pictures if you can find a place to safely pull off the highway.

Sunset Beach to Watch the Surfers

There are big waves at Sunset Beach, especially in the winter.  The World Cup of Surfing takes place there in late November to early December.

Laniakea Beach for Turtle Viewing

Laniakea Beach Turtle

When you see a bunch of cars parked in a no parking zone, you’ve arrived at Laniakea Beach.  Turtles swim and rest on the east side of the beach and there is often a turtle conservationist.  Don’t cross the red rope so you don’t stress the turtle (I’m so happy they do this so all the selfie folk don’t do their posing next to these creatures that can be more than 40 years old). 

Shave Ice

Matsumoto Shave Ice
Guava, Pineapple, and Coconut

If you google “Oahu Shave Ice” you will find that Matsumoto is the place to go to try this sugary treat.  The line may belong but it goes very quickly and you can chose from dozens of flavors and mixtures.  You can pay extra to get a scoop of ice cream in the bottom or sweetened condensed milk on top.  Matsumoto Shave Ice is located in the charming historical town of Haleiwa which also has plenty of shopping. 

Dole Pineapple Plantation

Pineapple bushes

The Dole Pineapple Plantation has a free garden where you can see tropical plants and different varieties of pineapple (did you know pineapples don’t grow on trees?)  You can have a very yummy Dole Whip (frozen pineapple dessert in a cup or a cone) for $6.  Loads of pineapple flavored goodies and trinkets in their shop but they are quite pricey.  You can also pay to do the pineapple maze or take the toy train tour. 

Walmart and/or Costco Run

Since you have wheels, make a trip to Walmart or Costco to pick up necessities and inexpensive Hawaiian gifts.  As we were on a cruise ship, we picked up macadamia nuts and $5 bottles of wine (we had no problem bringing on one bottle of wine per person at each port). This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

How Much Money Can You Save vs. an Oahu North Shore Tour?

Oahu North Shore tours are very expensive. The tours I could find ranged from $80 to $300 per person.  My rental car cost $38 (including a $5 after hour return fee for valet parking return) and I paid $12 for gas. 

How Much Time is Needed for Oahu North Shore Self-Drive Trip?

To do the North Shore Oahu itinerary above, you should plan at minimum 8 hours,and more if you want to make more stops or spend extensive time at any of the stops, or if you want to do one of these Oahu hikes.

Check out these other one-day itineraries for Cruise Ship passengers in Maui, Kauai, and Big Island.

Dec 13

What to Do on Big Island in One Day (Itinerary for Cruise Passengers and Others with Short Time)

If you’re on a cruise ship or just short on time, there are many things to do on the Big Island of Hawaii.  Here are tips on what to Do on Big Island Hawaii in One Day. Follow this one-day Hawaii Big Island Itinerary out of Hilo for a day of varied sites from a waterfall to lava to black sand beach. 

Pick-Up Your Rental Car

There are several car rental offices around Hilo. There are many cars available at the airport, but renting from one of the offices in town may save money as there are no airport taxes added.  Make sure you check the return rules – not all offices allow after hour returns.

Rainbow Falls

Rainbow Falls Hawaii

Rainbow Falls is just a little bit west of Hilo town, and an easy drive.  The best chance to see a rainbow at Rainbow Falls is around 10 am to 11 am in the morning. Parking at Rainbow Falls State Park is free.

Volcanoes National Park

Volcanic feature at Volcanoes National Park

The Volcanoes National Park changed drastically in 2018.  The crater sunk in, becoming so large it is now reclassified as a caldera.  The Jaggar Museum is closed and has little chance of reopening at it’s current location.  You can still go to the visitor center, see the caldera from afar, and see some of the earlier lava flows.  Check at the visitor center for the latest conditions and road closures. 

Akatsuka Orchid Farm

Exotic Orchids

The Akatsuka Orchid Farm is a living museum of orchids.  There’s a great gift shop and you can buy orchids and have them shipped to the mainland.

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor’s Center

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Ice Cream (eat it before it melts!)

You can visit the factory for macadamia nuts – the toughest nut to crack.  The gift shop contains macadamia in multiple forms – sweet and savory.  The prices are quite reasonable compared to Walmart and much cheaper than buying at specialty shops.  The café sells huge macadamia nut ice cream cones for $6 or so.  This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you. 

Richardson’s Beach

Afternoon at Richardson’s Beach

Richardson’s Beach is a public black sand beach about 5 miles south of Hilo.  There is some snorkeling right off the beach.  Take your Snorkel Set.

How Much Time Needed to Complete this What to Do on Big Island in One Day Itinerary?

To do the Big Island itinerary above, you should plan around 5-6 hours, and more if you want to make more stops or spend extensive time at any of the stops.

How Much Money Can You Save vs. a Hawaii Big Island Tour?

Wild Orchid at Volcanoes National Park

Hawaii Big Island Tours from Hilo are moderately expensive.  The tours I could find ranged from $85 and more per person.  You can do this self-guided tour of the Big Island for much less.  My rental car cost $35 and $10 for gas.  Entry to Volcanoes National Park was free with my America the Beautiful pass, and all other attractions were free.

Get your Hawaiian Shirt before you go!

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Dec 08

Where to See Turtles in Maui – Wahikuli Wayside Park

Before I went on my cruise ship trip to Hawaii, I researched where to see Turtles in Maui.  I discovered a park that was within walking distance of Lahaina, where my cruise ship was to dock/tender.  Here are the details on how to snorkel with sea turtles on Maui for FREE and some ideas on what to do after your sea turtle snorkeling experience.

Sea Turtle at Wahikuli Park

Getting to Wahikuli Wayside Park, Maui

It’s super easy to find this park.  From the cruise ship & tender port in Lahaina, go one block inland to Front Street.  Take a left and walk about 35 minutes.  In the morning, this street has virtually no traffic and has shade on the east side of the street.  After 35 minutes you will come to the junction of Front Street and Highway 30. From here you will be able to see the Wahikuli Park.  Turn left and walk about 5 minutes to be at the south end of the park.  Another 5 minutes will bring you to the beach from where you will snorkel.   Alternatively,it’s possible to get to this park by Taxi, Uber, or the West Maui Islander public bus (route 28).

Getting Your Snorkel Gear

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.  If you don’t have your own snorkel gear, you can rent a set for $19 per day at Snorkel Bobs which is located on Front Street about half way on the walk to Wahikuli.  However, for just a few dollars more and buy your own Snorkel Set (See Prices at Amazon).  If you plan on carrying a few valuables (for example, when cruising, I needed to take my cruise card, ID,and a bit of money ashore), I recommend using a Watertight Valuables Holder, which you can wear as you snorkel so there’s no worry that your important stuff is stolen.

Where to See the Turtles at Wahikuli Wayside Park

Black Sand Beach at Wahikuli Park

The best place to snorkel at Wahikuli Wayside Park is from the small black sand beach at the northern end of the park. This is by far the easiest place to enter and exit the water.  Turtles can be found north or south of this beach in the reef and rocks.  I recommend you view the water from above and look for turtles raising their heads for breath before entering the water and give you the best chance to swim with turtles on Maui. Wahikuli Park is one of the best places to snorkel with turtles on Maui because the turtles are near the shore and there is very little current so it’s a safe place to swim.  As always, it is not advised to snorkel solo.

How to Snorkel With Turtles

Turtle going up for a breath

Sea Turtles are some of the friendliest creatures in the sea.  They don’t swim the other way when you approach.  In fact, they may even approach you.  It’s super easy to follow behind a friendly sea turtle.  They often swim at a pace, slow enough for you to follow closely. Stay a fair distance away, don’t touch, and especially don’t harass the sea turtle.  If you are caught, there will be high fines assessed.

Watch this video of my Sea Turtle Snorkeling Experience.

Other Things Under the Sea

Slate Pencil Urchin

The reef at Wahikuli Wayside Park doesn’t rival some of the reefs I’ve seen in the tropics around the world in Indonesia, Philippines, etc., but it does have some nice fish and colorful urchins (photo of a Slate Pencil Urchin).

Other Amenities at Wahikuli Wayside Park

Picnic facilities and view at Wahikuli Park

Wahikuli Park has two public restrooms with showers available.  There are grills and covered picnic tables with incredible views of Lanai.  The sunsets here must be divine.

What to do After Swimming with Turtles

If you still want some more snorkeling, you might want to swim at Baby Beach on the walk back to Lahaina.  This is a good spot to see more fish, but be aware that it is impossible to snorkel here at low tide as it is too shallow. Back in Lahaina, you should try a Hawaiian Shave Ice from Ululani’s.  The Passion Orange Guava flavor was very tasty!

If you have more time in Maui, check out this Maui Packing List and these other Maui Hawaii activities.

Do you have any other suggestions on where to see turtles in Maui?  Please comment below.

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Dec 03

What to See in Kauai in One Day (Kauai One Day Itinerary)

If you’re on a cruise ship or just short on time, there are many things to do on Kauai, Hawaii.  While helicopter rides look amazing, they are not friendly to the budget and aren’t the safest activity (I met a guy on my cruise ship that had a neck brace due to an accident on a Kauai helicopter).  This one day Kauai itinerary can be done for only the cost of the rental car and gas.  My rental cost for an intermediate sized car was $34 and gas was $11.  Here’s a Kauai one day itinerary of what to see in Kauai in one day.   Most of these activities are accessible to people of most physical abilities.

Pick Up Your Rental Car

There are two places where you can rent a car if you’re on a cruise ship.  Most people catch one of the free shuttles to the airport where there are several rental car companies.  I rented from Enterprise Rental Car at the Marriott Hotel in Nawiliwili, which was only a quick 20 minute walk from where the ship docks.

 Hanapepe Swinging Bridge

Hanapepe is a cute little town with shops and eateries.  If you stop early, you might have the historic Swinging (Suspension) Bridge to yourself.  There is a small bakery with coffee across the street from the bridge entry if you haven’t had breakfast.

 Highway 550

The street signs say the way to Waimea Canyon is via highway 553.  It is true this is the bus route, but if you have a rental car, you can take the much more scenic highway 550 with views of the end of the canyon.  You drive among the tall grass with views of the coastline and the edge of Waimea Canyon.  Part way up the hill, you will see some red hill and probably a few cars parked.  On the left- hand side is a small waterfall in the red hills.  If you climb over the road barrier, you can hike around these hills and get up close to the waterfall.

 Koke’e  State Park Viewpoints

If the weather looks clear, head straight up through Waimea Canyon State Park and enter Koke’e State Park for incredible views of the Napali Coast.  I recommend you do this early as it is common for this area to be cloudy, or on clear days become cloudier as the day progresses.  Make sure you go to both lookouts – Kalalua and Puu O Kila.  These views are more commonly clouded or fogged over than Waimea canyon so go there first.  Also, the parking lots in Koke’e are also trailheads so the parking lots seem to fill faster than the viewpoints in Waimea Canyon State Park.  Koke’e State Park and parking at the viewpoints are free!

 Waimea Viewpoints

Waimea Canyon Kauai

There are a couple established viewpoints of the Waimea Canyon with large parking lots.  The bus tours generally only visit the “Waimea Canyon Lookout” but if you have a car it’s possible to visit the other stops.  Some of the best views were found in roadside pull outs so stop at a few and find your favorite view.  Waimea Canyon State Park and parking at the viewpoints are free!  There are toilets at the main lookouts.

 JoJo’s Shave Ice

Back in Waimea town, on highway 50 just east of the intersection of 550 and 50 is JoJo’s Shave Ice.  They make their own syrups with cane sugar.  They sell in two sizes – regular and the Big Kahuna.  I was shocked when the Big Kahuna arrived and was a foot high!  You can choose one of their combos or make your own combo.  Don’t forget to add a scoop of macadamia nut ice cream.

 Spouting Horn

Spouting Horn

Spouting Horn is a famous blowhole on the southern coast of Kauai, southwest of Koloa.  It blows every few minutes.  There are souvenir shops and restrooms available at Spouting Horn., and someone claimed some of the best priced souvenirs can be found here.  Spouting Horn and parking are free!

Costco

If you have a Costco Card, you can fill your gas tank at Costco, where the gas is $1.00 per gallon cheaper than most other gas stations on Kauai.  The nearby Costco store also has a wide selection of Hawaii special products such as Macadamia Nut Chocolates and Hawaiian shirts.  The prices are moderately better than those found at Walmart and ABC stores.  The best buy is the resealable packages of Mauna Loa Chocolates – these are usually around $11 for 10 ounces and at Costco you get 28 ounces for a similar price (although limited flavors).

 Return Your Car & Walk the Beach

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.  Upon returning your car, if you still have some free time before your deadline to board the ship, spend the time at the beach at the Marriott, one of the best beaches in Kauai.   A great way to end the day if you only have one day in Kauai.  Don’t forget your Snorkel Set.

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What to see in Kauai in one day

Nov 29

The Two Best Free Travel Apps that work when disconnected from Data or Wi-fi that will change the way you Travel

Are you a techie?  I’m not. At all.  I only got my first smart phone about 7 years ago.  Previously when I traveled, I relied on paper maps, Lonely Planet Guides, memory, and intuition to get around a new place.  But technology has made traveling life better.  Here is my early Christmas present to you – two FREE applications you can install on your smart phone that will make your traveling life so much easier.  They help you organize your trip, eliminate worry, and even save money. The two best free travel apps are Maps Me and TripIt…

With these travel apps you will enjoy more sunsets and rainbows

Best Travel App #1:  Maps Me (or “Maps dot me”)

Maps Me is a disconnected map app where you can download individual regional maps and use offline.  It uses GPS to pinpoint your location.  Map pins are crowd-sourced.  Every accommodation on booking.com, even apartments can be found on Maps Me, so it’s great to know you can find your accommodation even though you don’t have data, wi-fi, or a paper map.

Examples of use on my recent trip in the Balkans:

  • The app allows you to bookmark places, so I would map and bookmark places I was planning to go later in the day, and those places were easy to retrieve from the bookmarks.
  • We arrived at a Monastery far in the country with not a huge amount of local currency, thinking we could use Euros or credit cards to pay for part of our stay. But the cost of staying in the Monastery rooms, transportation, and three meals was more than we expected, and we thought we’d run out of money.  Google maps was showing the closest ATM was over 12 miles away.  me showed there was an ATM in the parking lot of the monastery.
  • We reserved an apartment on booking.com and followed the pinpoint to exactly the front door.
  • When arriving in a new town, we could map the distance and the elevation gain to our destination and decide if we could walk or if a taxi or bus was needed. In many cities, we found the walk was less than half an hour, and we saved much money by walking instead of catching a cab.
  • When riding in a taxi, we could make sure the driver was taking us directly to our route rather than for an expensive ride.
  • When riding a bus from city to city, we could watch our progress and know when we arrived at our destination. Previously, I’d need to sit on the right side of the bus and have close watch on the mile markers, or ask the driver or another passenger if we had arrived in my final destination at every bus station.  I feel I can relax much more on long bus rides with this app.
  • Many hiking trails are on the map – not only hikes in national parks, but also lesser known hikes.

Disclaimer about GPS and Maps me – since the GPS is reliant on satellite, there are times the app won’t find your location.  For example, if you are in a large building or in and out of railway tunnels.

Best Travel App #2: TripIt (by Concur)

TripIt is an app that stores your calendar entries and details of certain bookings.  All you need to do is download the app, set up an account, and forward your transportation and accommodation bookings to plans@tripit.com.  Then you can open your app and you will find all of your bookings in chronological order (no more sifting through old emails to find your booking details).

TripIt allows you to share your trip with other people – so you can share your itinerary with travel partners.  For safety, you could also share with a friend or family member at home.

Once you’ve sent your plans to the app, you can view many details offline.  Details viewable offline include:

  • Booking numbers
  • Flight, train, bus times
  • Hotel details – address, phone number, check-in and check-out time (how great is it to sleep in or have a bit of a walk around the town and be able to confirm the checkout time)
  • Rental car details
  • Booking prices – this has been handy, on occasion a hotel has tried to charge a higher rate than promised at the time of booking.

Booking Tips

Both of these best free travel apps are very compatible with booking.com, a website to see reviews and to book hotels, apartments, and hostels.  I like this booking site and have found if you set up an account, you are eligible for “genius” discounts.  We saved 10% off the rack rate at several places we stayed in the Balkans from this discount.

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.  If you enjoyed this information, I would be grateful if you consider booking your accommodation at this affiliate link for booking.com.  (Even better, bookmark it for use later 😊)

Still have an old flip phone or looking for an upgrade?  Shop at Amazon now:

Nov 19

How to Get to Sarajevo Bobsled Track

There is a fair amount of outdated info online about how to get to the Olympic bobsled in Sarajevo, and in 2018, the track is more accessible than ever!  Use these tips on how to get to Sarajevo Bobsled track…

A Bit of Olympic Bobsled History

Sarajevo Olympic Bobsled Track

The bobsled and luge track was built for the 1984 Olympic Winter games.  During the war in the early 1990’s, Serbian snipers sometimes hid behind and inside the bobsled track and shot at the Bosniaks below.  Today, it’s Instagram famous in part because of its “abandoned” status and graffiti, and training is done on the track in summer months.

How to Get to Sarajevo Bobsled Track Method #1 – Hiking

The only free way to visit the bobsled and luge track is to hike.  If you’re planning to hike, make sure you download the free “maps.me” app and then the maps.me Bosnia map.  This map works by satellite position and works even if you don’t have data on your phone.  This map is super helpful in guiding your way to the Bobsled track because the map includes trails.  The name of the location on that map is “Sarajevo Olympic Bobsleigh Track”.   There are several blogs online that warn of robberies on this hike, but the locals claim this doesn’t happen.  Regardless, if you’re planning to hike, don’t take all of your valuables with you.  The track is several hundred meter elevation gain, so best to do if you’re fit.

How to Get to Sarajevo Bobsled Track Method #2 – Cable Car

Sarajevo Cable Car

The Sarajevo cable car is the newest and best way to avoid the uphill hike and give you sweeping views of Sarajevo.  The Sarajevo cable car only opened in April 2018 and costs 7 BAM (3.50 Euro) to go to the top.  From the top, there is not good signage to come down to the bobsled track, so I recommend again to download the maps.me app listed above.   Since hiking the bobsled takes you 1.3 km back to town, there is only need to take the cable car one-way.    On your way back to town, I recommend stopping at the Sarajevsko Brewery (attached to the brewery museum).  A cool beer hall serving the freshest beer in Bosnia.

How to Get to Sarajevo Bobsled Track Method #3 – Tour

Another easy way to see the bobsled track is to do a tour, and this gives you a chance to learn some more Sarajevo history and visit other historic sites.  I recommend the 4-hour afternoon tour at 1:00pm with Enes at BH Spirit Tours.  The tour name is Sarajevo under the siege – 1425 Days.  The cost is 60 BAM (30 Euros) and this includes transportation from the center of town, entrance to the Tunnel of Hope museum (normally 10 BAM), and guide.  Places visited on this tour includes:

  • Tunnel of Hope – watch some videos on what it was like to transport in the small tunnel under the UN controlled airport at the time of the siege, then get to walk a (very short) restored bit of the tunnel.
  • City viewpoint on Trebević Olympic mountain
  • Old Jewish Cemetery – the second largest Jewish Cemetery in Europe after Prague. You can still see bullet holes in some of the gravestones.
  • And of course the Olympic Bobsled track. The tour bus dropped us very close to the top of the bobsleigh and luge track, where we hiked down a good portion of the track and had time to take photos.

Olympic Bobsled Sarajevo – Where to Stay

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It’s best to stay in the center of the city, the cable car, tour, and trail head for the hike is very accessible from the center of town.  (Check Rates and Availability at booking).

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Nov 13

Lukomir Bosnia (the highest village in the hills above Sarajevo)

If you’re spending some time in Sarajevo and have a spare day, I highly recommend a day or overnight trip to Lukomir Mountain Village in Bosnia (pronounced Luke – oh – meer).  This village is on the back side of Bjelasnica Mountain, about a 2-hour drive from the capital of Sarajevo. You can do it on your own or take a Lukomir Tour.

Lukomir Hiking 
Lukimor Hiking

There are several trails out of Lukomir, in addition to hiking along the main road.  You are likely to encounter more sheep than people on the trail!  I recommend bringing Hiking Poles for this hike!  It’s a bit steep in places and hiking poles help stability and balance.

 The Lukomir Village

Lukomir Mountain Village

The ethnic village is so remote, it is said this is the only Bosnian village that was unaffected by the Serbians in the 1990’s war on Bosnia.  The population is only around 50 and none of the residents stay over the winter as there is too much snow and it is impossible to travel to neighboring village for food, medical treatment, etc.

 Exploring the Village

Lukomir Stecci

Make sure you save some time to walk around the village.  Walk around the houses, play with the cats, and be amused by the stray chickens.   From the village facing towards the canyon, make sure you head up the hill past the cemetery to see the stecak grave stones (Stecci) from pre-Ottoman era.  This particular grave is the most famous of the 60,000 graves in Bosnia, as it is remote, has a carving of a cross, and overlooks an incredible view.

Pop into the Mosque

You are welcome to visit the mosque as long as you remove your shoes.

 Have a Burek and some Bosnian Coffee

There’s a small restaurant at the entrance to the village.  Here you can eat some of the best Burek (bread pie) in Bosnia and Herzegovina, made from local ingredients.  They also serve Bosnian Coffee and other drinks.

Make sure you order ahead if you want to eat.

 A Toilet with a View

Lukomir Toilet
Toilet with a view

When you visit Lukomir, you must go to the toilet on the outskirts of the Lukomir village.  It’s said to be the bathroom with the best view in all of Europe.  Be aware it is a squat toilet and isn’t the most fresh toilet I’ve used.

 How to Get to Lukomir

Lukomir is not currently accessible by public transportation.  This is both a blessing and a curse.  It makes getting to Lukomir much more difficult for budget travelers (although it is possible to get a ride to a nearby town, but it is still quite a hike), but it also keeps the town more untouched.  I met a number of people in Sarajevo and none of them have visited Lukomir even though it is couple hour drive for them.  This keeps the town and trails having few tourists and remaining relatively unspoiled.

So, the best options are to take a Lukomir tour or rent a car.

For a Lukomir Tour, I recommend Green Visions, as they offer the cheapest tour I could find per person at 45 Euros (90 BAM), but also includes a great English speaking guide and lunch.

If you’re taking a rental car, note that some rental cars in Bosnia forbid driving on gravel road and Lukomir is accessed via a long gravel road.  Ignoring these restrictions, driving to Lukomir is doable in a non-4×4 car if driven slowly.

Lukomir – Where to Stay 

This post contains affiliate links.  This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.  There are several, very highly rated places to stay in Lukomir (Check Rates and Availability).  Here you can stay in one of the traditional stone houses which have been converted to a Lukimor Guest House.  Make sure you make reservations, especially on busy weekends.

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Nov 08

Montenegro to Serbia Train (Bar to Belgrade Train)

After the break-up of Yugoslavia, many of the trains in the Balkans ceased running.  However, one of the most spectacular train rides in the world is still doable and takes you across two countries.  Here are the details and some tips for riding the Montenegro to Serbia Train (aka Bar to Belgrade Train).

My Baby Takes the Morning Train

Although it’s possible to do this trip on the night train, I highly recommend the west to east ride during the day time for the best views.  The train leaves Bar, Montenegro at 8:20 am, passes thru the Montenegrin capital of Podricaka a bit later and then heads towards Serbia, going all the way to Belgrade via various Serbian cities.  We rode the train as far as Ucize, Serbia and arrived late afternoon, about 30 minutes after the scheduled arrival time.

Bar Train Station

 Montenegro to Serbia Train Cost

We purchased our tickets the day before but the train on a mid-week day in October was quite empty so it would have been OK to purchase the morning of.  The cost from Bar to Uzice, Serbia was just under 15 Euro and included a seat reservation in a private car with 6 seats.  There was one newer car with many non-reservable seats, but it seemed most of the locals were in the reservable cars.  Also, if you like to take pictures, the windows in the reservable cars did open while the windows in the open seating did not.

Reserved Seats on Bar to Belgrade Train

 The Views, Those Amazing Views

Lake Skadar, as seen from the train

The first part of the trip out of Bar goes by the Adriatic sea coastline and then inland to cross the northern end of Lake Skadar(one of the largest lakes in Europe).  Beyond the coast, nearly the entire country of Montenegro is comprised of rugged limestone mountains and the Montenegro to Serbia Train will give you grandiose views of mountains, valleys, dammed lakes, and green rivers.  Once you get closer to Serbia, the hills become rolling and greener.

 Tunnels

The Montenegro to Serbia Train goes through 100’s of tunnels.  A fun game is to count them.  If I had one complaint about the ride is that it would be nice to have fewer tunnels and more views.

 Immigration

The train stopped for 20-30 minutes on both the Montenegro and Serbia sides of the border.  Not on the border itself, but in the closest cities to the border.  If you are a foreigner, your passport will be taken and stamped and you will get the passport back after the train has departed.

 A Bosnian Passage

Surprise!  The train snakes thru Bosnia for awhile.  Watch for the “Welcome to Bosnia” sign with spray paint crossing out the text offensive to one of the sides (You’ll notice in several Balkan countries where multiple spellings often have one crossed out – for example the Cyrillic text was often crossed out in Bosnia).

 More Insider Tips for the Bar to Belgrade Train

  • There is no dining car!!! And the stops are quite short and not ample time to purchase food.  There were no drinks available for purchase in Montenegro but someone selling drinks on the Serbian side.  So, I suggest you bring water, drinks, and food for your ride.
  • The best of the views (both the coastline and mountains) are on the left side of the train (the side that will face west & north for the duration of the ride).
  • If you like time lapse videos, attach your Go Pro to the window on the left side of the train.

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Where to Stay in Bar, Montenegro

We had the cutest little apartment that was across the street from the Train station and only a couple blocks from the bus station.  Nice kitchen, bathroom, and a little seating area out front.  It’s a 20-30 minute walk from the town or an inexpensive taxi ride.  The name is Apartment Ines (Check Rates and Availability)

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Nov 04

Sleeping at Heathrow Airport – A regrettable night

Unfortunately, I am writing this post while I’m sitting wide awake in the middle of the night in London Heathrow.  As I start this post, it’s 2:53 am at my original destination (Bulgaria) and 0:53 am in London.  I’m so tired, and really wish I were sleeping at Heathrow Airport right now but instead I’m writing about this awful night.  A more appropriate name for this post would be “Not Sleeping at Heathrow Airport” or “Staying Overnight at Heathrow Airport”

Decisions, Decisions

Once upon a time, I purchased flights to the Balkans by using Frequent Flier miles.  Now, rather than give us more direct flights with shorter connection times, my friend and I end up with awful connections and long layovers – the longest being a 12-hour layover in London from 8:30 pm to 8:40 am.  We discussed whether it was worth leaving the airport or not, perhaps go into the city, or hit a nearby pub, or book a hotel, but I’m a frugal traveler and I thought we could spend some time in the lounges that were open until 11 pm and then again starting at 4:30 am, and just find some quiet corner of Heathrow airport to get a few hours of sleep in between.

 Arrival at Heathrow Airport

Our arrival was right on time.  There was only one other guy on our transfer to Terminal 3, so we knew the airport was going to be quiet.  There was no line at security, so we breezed through.  Despite these quick movements, it was 9:30 by the time we arrived in Terminal 3.

 Lounges Denied

I have Priority Pass, a free perk of my Chase Sapphire Reserve Card.  The Priority Pass grants me access to nearly 1000 premium airline lounges around the world.  I had previously done some research and found two of the free lounges were to be open until 10:30 pm, so I figured we’d have time for a quick bite and some wine before trying to sleep.  But when we arrived at both lounges at 9:30 pm, they both had stopped serving any food, and were basically cleaning up for the night and wouldn’t allow up access.

 Finding Our “Bed” for the Night

The last time I was in Heathrow (7 weeks prior, when I was headed towards the Balkans), I had scoped out a few benches that didn’t have arm-rests.  We found a couple such benches in Gate 3 of Terminal 3.  It wasn’t the best spot, as the people movers (automated walkways) were screeching constantly.  But, I put on some music to drown out the screeches.

 No wi-fi

On top of all of our troubles so far in the night, the Heathrow wi-fi wasn’t working.  It didn’t matter what device I was using, it gave us an error message of “Your cookie settings are wrong”.  Life is rough without wi-fi, so it was time to go to bed.

 Awoken and Corralled like Cattle

Just as I fell asleep, a woman awoke us and told us we’d have to move to Gate 7.  We arrived in the brightly lit Gate 7 a little before 11 pm as other sleepy travelers were gathering from their previous places of slumber.  In all, there were about 35 overnight transit passengers looking for shelter and they tried to find one of the benches without arm-rests so they could stretch out a bit. 

Sleeping at Heathrow Airport

A Moment of Silence

At 11:10, we were interrupted by 3 announcements to observe a moment of silence for those lost in the wars – ironic is breaking our silence to tell us to observe silence.  

The Interrogations Begin

I awoke again around midnight when I heard someone abruptly asking for passports.  A woman and man with “Border Protection” uniforms were waking everyone to check their papers.  The woman looked at my American passport and moved on.  But she questioned those with third world passports – Why are you here?  Where are you going?  She asked a Turkish guy why he flew to UK one day and returning to Turkey the next day.  I didn’t hear the answer.  Another guy quietly walked the room and took a count of everyone there.  

They Tried to Freeze Us Out

I tried to sleep in Heathrow on the 4th of November, so it was fairly chilly outside but I swear they turned off the heat.  As the night passed, Gate 7 got considerably cooler.  I had to put on all of the clothes I packed in my carry-on. 

The Snoring, Oh the Snoring

Sleeping beauty (that’s me!)

I’m a light sleeper and it doesn’t take much to keep me awake.  Snoring is one of my pet peeves – I cannot sleep thru loud snoring.  But there was a chorus of snorers at Gate 7 sleeping in Heathrow.  There was lots of other noise including a group of IT geeks from the US that talked all thru the night, coughing, and pacing.

Wake Up Call

At 4:40 am, the security guard started yelling.  Everybody up!  If you’re going to terminals 4 or 5 get on the bus there, if you’re going to Terminal 3, you must go back to the waiting area.  It was then I discovered this was the place for staying overnight at Heathrow Airport for all Terminals.  A Heathrow cleaner ran around the room waving her broom and yelling “Good Morning, Good Morning”.  Everyone cleared out in 5 minutes, and end to a surreal night.

The Aftermath

In total, I got about an hour of sleep.  Now I’m sitting in the comfortable No. 1 Lounge enjoying a free breakfast, juice, and coffee (thanks Priority Pass!).  Hope you enjoyed this story.

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My Advice for Sleeping at Heathrow

If you can afford to get a hotel, don’t try to sleep at Heathrow.   In other words, don’t be “penny wise and sound sleep foolish”!   If you have a much shorter connection time or can’t afford a hotel, make sure you bring the following to make your sleep more comfortable:

If you’ve read this post and decided sleeping at Heathrow airport is not for you, check these rates and availability for hotels near Heathrow.

If Anyone From Heathrow Airport Is Reading This

Yes, you do provide an area with a water fountain, vending machines, toilets, and charging station – thanks for that!  And due to all the nooks and crannies of the airport, it’s reasonable and safe to consolidate all the overnighters into one protected space.  But why do treat the folks that are stuck with bad connection times in such poor conditions?  Could you not keep the area at a more comfortable temperature?  How about dim the lights, just a little bit?

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