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Oct 04

A Fun Day on Riverboat Discovery and Gold Dredge 8 in Fairbanks, Alaska

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Culture, Unique Experiences

Ask anyone to name some things that Alaska is famous for, and you might think glaciers or mountains or hunting. But a couple things that are part of the history and future of Alaska are gold mining and sled dogs. While there are multiple opportunities around the state to learn about sled dogs and gold mining, doing both the Riverboat Discovery and Gold Dredge No. 8, you will not only learn about these, but also learn a bit about Alaskan history and culture. I did both Riverboat Discovery and Gold Dredge No. 8 in the same day and had lots of fun. Here’s the story of my day.

Riverboat Discovery

Riverboat Discovery is a 3-hour adventure on a huge riverboat, the “Discovery III” on the Chena River. It’s a family run business that involves exposure to history and culture of the Chena River area.

Insider Tip: it’s worth arriving a little early. You can look around their huge gift shop, see Susan Butcher’s sled, drink free coffee, and have your photo taken in the “Alaska at 40 below”. A room that’s kept at Alaska winter temperatures. I went in wearing shorts and a T-shirt and didn’t stay more than a couple seconds. If you don’t have time before the boat departs, you can do these things after your cruise.

Witness a Sea Plane Take Off and Landing

You will probably see Sea Planes all around Alaska. If you’re lucky, you might even get to ride in one. While I didn’t ride in any planes, I did get to witness a close-up take off and landing. The captain of the Discovery III chatted with the pilot and got answers to some Sea Plane FAQ’s.

Susan Butcher’s Sled Dogs

The Riverboat Discovery swings by the Trail Breaker Kennel on the banks of the Chena River to see sled dogs in training. This is the kennel of the late 4-time Iditarod Sled Dog Race winner, Susan Butcher, and her husband. From the boat we viewed the dogs, puppies, and saw the dogs run.

How sled dogs are trained in the summer (no snow, sleds)

The Confluence of the Chena and Tanana Rivers

It is said that 99 glaciers feed into the Tanana River. The Riverboat Discovery makes it to the confluence of the Chena before turning back. The guide will tell you the story of why and how Fairbanks was settled.

Athabascan Village

The Athabascan Village gives you a chance to get off the riverboat. The big group is separated into smaller groups and you go around to different spots in the village to learn about aspects of Athabascan (Native Alaskan) culture and history – from smoking salmon to fur trapping and uses. Then you have some free time to either walk around the village or learn more about sled dogs or Athabascan life. I went to the talk given by the sled dog trainer. You can also see Caribou/Reindeer up close!

Riverboat Discovery Treats

Don’t miss your chance to get treats on the boat – a blueberry donut and coffee in the morning, and smoked salmon dip after visiting the village.

Driving to the Gold Dredge 8

It’s possible to do both the Riverboat Discovery and the Gold Dredge 8 on the same date, but note they are on opposite sides of town. The drive from Riverboat Discovery to the gold dredge takes 15-20 minutes. If you’re doing the drive on the Wednesday or Saturday, you can stop into the Fairbanks Farmers Market (aka Tanana Valley Farmers Market) like I did. The market is on College Road, which is not far off the route between the two attractions. Several food vendors are on site so you can pick up a quick lunch.

Gold Dredge Number 8

The Gold Dredge No. 8 tour is a two-hour experience that includes a train ride, education about the gold mining practices at the start of the 20^th century, a chance to visit the inside of a gold dredge, panning for gold, turning your gold into jewelry, and a talk about the Alaskan oil pipeline.

Insider Tip: arrive early (before the tour buses arrive). You can hop in the front car so you have front row seats for the live music before the tour and the guide during the tour. But if you don’t end up in the front, don’t fear as there are video monitors throughout the train.

Gold Panning

I’ve probably driven or rode past 100’s of places to gold pan in my life in places such as South Dakota and Montana, but never had I ever done gold panning – until now! The entrance to the Gold Dredge Number 8 includes gold panning – they show you how to pan for gold and they give you a bag of “pay dirt”. There’s a pan and troughs of water for everyone. Gold is much heavier than sand or gravel so as you pan, the gold settles to the bottom of the pan if you do it right. The panning place has lots of assistants so if you need a little help, they will show or do it for you. When you’ve found your gold (you’re guaranteed to find some), you can place it in the provided plastic container, similar to the plastic containers that film used to come in. Alternatively, you can buy a locket to display your gold.

A flash in the pan… the gold from my pay dirt!

Next, everyone goes into the museum, gift, and jewelry shop. There’s free cookies and hot drinks. You have some spare time to get your gold weighed and valued (my gold was worth $16!), have it converted into jewelry, and time to shop and visit inside the Gold Dredge. After free time, you board the train to return to the parking lot where there is one more thing to do…

Learn About the Alaskan Pipeline

One visible bit of the Alaskan Pipeline is just between the train and the parking lot at the gold dredge. The guide will share some interesting facts about the pipeline (do you know why some of the pipeline is below ground and some is above?) which concludes this excellent tour.

Where to Stay in Fairbanks

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Fairbanks has a wide selection of hotels and motels. It’s a very drivable city so any place in or around the city would be a good choice. (Check Rates and Availability in Fairbanks)

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Alaska, Dogs, Fairbanks, Gold, Gold Rush, History, USA
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Sep 29

Anchorage to Whittier, Alaska (A Day Trip Via the Whittier Tunnel)

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery

Whittier, Alaska is a strange place. With history as a portage for native people and fur traders, the village started as a military base in world war 2 and is only reachable by boat or car/train via a tunnel. I wasn’t originally planning on visiting Whittier as it involved yet another dead-end drive , it involved the paying of a toll, and I had already visited other beautiful Alaskan coastal towns like Hyder, Haines, Valdez, Seward, and Homer; but a friend from Anchorage said it’s such a beautiful place – I should visit whether I’m taking a glacier cruise or not. The glacier cruises were pricey at nearly $200. So skipping a cruise, I still found plenty of great things to see and do on my day trip from Anchorage to Whittier, AK.

Anchorage to Whittier Drive

Driving from Anchorage to Whittier is only 61 miles, but it could take well over an hour depending if you hit the Whittier Tunnel schedule at the right time. From Anchorage you will head south and east, passing the gorgeous Beluga Point and Girdwood, finally turning east towards Whittier in Portage, AK.

Anchorage to Homer Driving — Beluga Point views

Taking the Whittier Tunnel

The Whittier Tunnel, also called the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, is a single lane 2.5 mile long tunnel, shared by cars, trucks, RVs, and trains. The Whittier Tunnel tolls start at $13 for a car and prices raise from there for larger vehicles with more axles. Generally, the tunnel is open for entry for 15 minutes each way, once each hour. The tunnel is closed overnight. So do check the schedule before you go, as you may have to wait up to 45 minutes if you arrive at the wrong time. If you do get stuck on the west side, you can check out the US parks visitor center at the Portage Glacier lake. While you can no longer see the glacier, they have exhibits and toilets.

The Whittier Barracks

At a population of only around 200 people, Whittier is a really small town. The town is dominated by two huge WWII barracks. One is in use as the main living and shopping center of the town. The other is a hulking abandoned building. It’s not possible to visit this dangerous abandoned building, it’s heavily fenced and lots of “no trespassing” signs. For a great opportunity to visit abandoned buildings, there’s no place more fascinating than Pripyat city in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.

Glacier Viewing From Whittier Without a Cruise

One of the main reasons to go from Anchorage to Whittier is to take a glacier cruise, but with parking and taxes, this can cost upwards of $200 for a 7-hour tour. The glacier and wildlife cruises in Valdez and Seward tend to be better value, with free parking and longer time on the sea. There are several glacier views you can see from Whittier town and from viewpoints along Shotgun Cove Trail Road to the east of town.

Byron Glacier Hike

Either on your way to or from Whittier, you should definitely stop to do the Byron Glacier Hike, just a couple miles west of the western entrance to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. This flat, easy hike has great views and ends at the snow bank below the Byron Glacier – there was still melting snow during my visit in early August.

Anchorage to Whittier, Alaska — Byron Glacier

Staying Longer Than a Day? Where to Stay in Whittier

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There are only a couple places to stay in Whittier, and none are available on booking. There is one municipal campground, they don’t look friendly on free camping on the Whittier side of the tunnel. Another alternative is to stay in Girdwood, with nearly as nice views as Whittier, you’re not “stuck” by the tunnel. (Check Rates and Availability in Girdwood).

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Alaska, Glacier, Ocean, Scenic Drives, Scenic Roads

Sep 27

Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Architecture, Culture, Scenery

One of the nicest surprises in driving from Anchorage to Homer was discovering the Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula. I knew nothing of these churches before I went to Alaska, but it was great to visit the history and architecture of these churches. These are the best Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula:

Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Kenai town

The old town of Kenai, northwest of Soldotna, is home to the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the oldest Orthodox Church in Alaska. If you visit during opening hours, you can shop at the small gift shop next door.

Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik

The Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik for sure has the most dramatic setting of all of the Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula, with the Mount Iliamna Volcano looming in the background and a military and and an Orthodox cemetery surrounding the church. The priest was on site so I got a chance to look around when I visited in the morning.

Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church interior

Church of Saint Nicholas in Nikolaevsk Russian Village

The most Russian of all of the towns in Kenai is Nikolaevsk. Don’t miss a visit to the Church of Saint Nicolas, and if you can, don’t miss visiting the interior. There are actually two churches on the site at Nikolaevsk, with one being actively built, with it’s huge onion dome on the ground during my visit.

While in Nikolaevsk, if you’re in the mood for Russian Food, head over to the Samovar Café or Borscht, Russian Tea, or just taking some photos with Nina, the café proprietor. Another great reason to visit Nikolaevsk is to see the blanket of Fireweed that covers the hills around town.

All Saints Orthodox Church in Homer

In Homer, you can take the very scenic Skyline Drive to find the All Saints Orthodox Church hidden in the hills above Homer. The church was unlocked so I got a chance to look inside, and this had the most beautiful interior of the four churches I visited.

Tips for Visiting the Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula

For the highest chance to look inside the churches, visit during normal daylight hours, say 10-4. All the churches accept donations, consider donating to help preserve and run these wooden churches. Dress modestly – you should cover your shoulders and not wear shorts in Orthodox Churches.

Best Places to Stay When Visiting the Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula

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Staying north of the churches – Soldotna – largest town on Kenai with all the major conveniences, great for day tripping to Kenai old town or K-beach Check Rates and Availability in Soldotna.

Staying south of the churches – Homer – the end of the road with fantastic views. Check Rates and Availability in Homer.

See Posts on Other Orthodox Churches I’ve Visited Around the World:

St. Basil’s in Moscow

Church on the Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg, Russia In my opinion, this may be the most beautiful orthodox churches in the world

Siberia, Russia

Tashkent, Uzbekistan

Tigray Churches in northeastern Ethiopia

Stepantsminda, Georgia

Echmiadzin, Armenia (the Vatican City of Armenia)

Geghard, Armenia

Many churches in Kyiv, Ukraine

Orthodox church in Chernobyl

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Sep 22

Anchorage to Homer Driving (Driving the Sterling Highway and What to Do)

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Wildlife

Anchorage to Homer Driving takes just over 4 hours for 222 miles if you drive straight through, but why would you want to? There are so many things to see on the drive from Anchorage to Homer, on the so called Sterling Highway. These are my favorite things to do on the drive from Anchorage to Homer, Alaska.

Beluga Point

Drive straight south from Anchorage and it doesn’t take long before you find yourself driving along the ocean front, on the Turnagain Arm. There are some great places to pull off the side of the road for spectacular views, and Beluga Point is one of the best. One of the best times of day to stop at Beluga Point is when the bore tide comes in, a big wave that comes in over the mud flats. This is a phenomenon that only happens in a few dozen places in the world. And yes, it is also possible to see Beluga Whales from Beluga Point if you’re lucky.

Girdwood Glaciers

As you continue your drive to Homer, take a look on your left and see lots of hanging glaciers near Girdwood. One of the best attractions in Girdwood is taking a cable car to have a walk in the mountains.

Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

Please skip the Alaska Zoo in Anchorage and instead visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. This animal park consists of animals that were once held as pets, or injured, or animals they plan to release into the wild to repopulate endangered species. The wildlife center has most of the major wild animals of Alaska, most everything except the Arctic animals like Polar Bears and Walrus. But they have moose, bear, bison, caribou, foxes, porcupines, lynx, and more.

Anchorage to Homer Driving Detour: Take the Toll Tunnel to Whittier

There are no other toll highways in Alaska, except the Alaska Marine Highway, but it’s worth the $13 to take the toll tunnel to Whittier. You go thru a tunnel to a very unique town build on limited buildable land. There are many glaciers to see on this highway and you can even hike up to the Byron Glacier or take a boat over to the Portage Glacier.

Turnagain Pass

Before you turn west towards Homer, you’ll drive up over the Turnagain Pass, which has some nice hikes. Make sure you stop at the lake at the junction of Highway 1 and Highway 9, the views are to die for.

Reflective lake at the junction of Alaska highways 1 and 9.

Cooper Landing

Cooper Landing is a mecca for fishing. Cooper Landing is also the home to some great little roadhouses along the Sterling Highway.

Skilak Wildlife Recreation Area

If you’re willing to do a little driving on gravel road, you can take the 18-mile scenic detour through Skilak Wildlife Recreation Area. Hidden Lake is a good place to see bears. There are some great campgrounds on this road, a few of them are free!

Kenai River

The Kenai River is one of the world’s best rivers for Salmon fishing. Visit in July and you’re like to see people fishing with dip nets. On a sunny day, the river can be a brilliant blue due to the glacial silt.

Anchorage to Homer Driving Detour: Kenai Town, Kenai Flats, and K-Beach Road

Once you get to Soldotna, it’s worth taking a detour to Kenai Town via the flats and then heading down K-Beach Road before rejoining the Sterling Highway. The Kenai Flats and K-Beach road are some of the best places on Kenai Peninsula for spotting wildlife. I saw a couple Caribou with HUGE antlers feeding along the road. I continued watching them and following them as they were making their way up the road. Then I turned and spotted a great big moose just chilling in a nearby pond. I didn’t know where to look!

Views of Mount Redoubt and Mount Iliamna Volcanoes

The western coast of Kenai has amazing views of several volcanoes, of which Mount Redoubt and Mount Iliamna dominate the skyline. You can’t miss the great big grassy field with lots of parking, a short walk, and unobstructed views of these two volcanoes. A must stop on any drive from Anchorage to Homer or vice versa.

Ninilchik

Ninilchik is a coastal town with one of the nicest Russian Orthodox churches on the peninsula, with a photogenic cemetery and views of the mountains. This small town is also home of the annual Salmonfest music festival.

Whisky Gulch

For the best free campground on the Kenai Peninsula, look no further than Whisky Gulch. Park yourself right on the ocean for views of the volcanoes and awesome sunsets!

Anchorage to Homer Driving Detour: Nikolaevsk Russian Village

On of the locals in Anchor Point told me about the Russian Village, otherwise I never would have known about this place. Take North Fork Road until you reach Nikolaevsk where you can see the two Orthodox Churches and have some Russian Tea and food at Samovar Cafe.

Insider tip: if you want to see lots of Fireweed and it’s July, there’s no better place than Nikolaevsk. The hills around this village are awash with Fireweed in the middle of summer – so gorgeous!

Things to do in Homer – Homer Spit

The top thing to do in Homer, Alaska is to drive out to the Spit, a long, sand peninsula on the tip of the Kenai peninsula. The spit is home to halibut and salmon fishing charters, seafood restaurants, Grizzly Bear float plane tours, and the Alaska Marine Highway ferry terminal. Drive all the way to the end to visit a small park and have views of the glaciers on Halibut Cove.

Things to do in Homer – Skyline Drive and All Saints Orthodox Church

If you have your own transportation, make sure you head up to the viewpoint on Skyline Drive. It’s the best place to see the sound, the Homer Spit, town, Beluga Lake, glaciers, and more. You will be amazed at how busy the Homer Spit looks from above.

Glacier view from Skyline Drive in Homer

Where to Stay when Driving Anchorage to Homer

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Places that you might want to stay include:

Girdwood – small town at the base of the mountains. Check Rates and Availability in Girdwood.

Soldotna – largest town on Kenai with all the major conveniences, great for day tripping to Kenai town or K-beach Check Rates and Availability in Soldotna.

Homer – the end of the road with fantastic views. Check Rates and Availability in Homer.

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Alaska, Churches, Glacier, Glaciers, Kenai Peninsula, Russian Orthodox Church, USA, Volcano, Wildlife, Zoo

Sep 19

Best Things to Do in Seward, Alaska

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Culture, Scenery, Wildlife

As part of my 2-month trip to Alaska, I spent three full days in Seward, Alaska. Seward is the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park. Unfortunately, it rained two of the three days, but I still found plenty of things to do in Seward, AK.

Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center

Most of this National Park in inaccessible to automobile traffic, but you can visit the visitor center located on the west end of the Seward Harbor. They have a really good film and some interesting historical photos of the glaciers.

Do a Wildlife and Glacier Cruise to Kenai Fjords National Park

A top activity, and one of the more expensive ones, is to do a wildlife and glacier Cruise. There are two major cruise companies here, both with great reviews, but the reviews slightly gave an edge to Kenai Fjords Tours so I went we them and have no regrets. Luckily, I got to do this on the one sunny day in Seward. I enjoyed the weather, views, animals – including sea otters, Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, Puffins, and Orcas jumping out of the ocean! There were also views of glaciers including time enjoying the view and calving at the Northwestern Glacier. The cruise included breakfast and lunch so it was a great day out! They offer several cruises of varying lengths, the Northwestern Glacier is their longest tour and I enjoyed the extra time on the water. The glaciers are retreating quickly – go there soon if you want to see them. Read about my awesome time on the Kenai Fjords Northwestern Glacier Tour.

Visit the Alaska Sealife Center

The Alaska Sealife Center is the premier attraction in Seward. They have Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, many types of sea birds, and many types of fish from the Alaska region. There’s a small theater with various sea and sea life films that loop all day. There are also multiple life shows where a biologist explains and feeds the animals. The entry fee was $32 with tax, but the ticket allows you to come back throughout the day so you can see any of the live programs you want. Especially for a rainy day, it’s a decent attraction.

Watch 2 @ 2 Films at the Library/Museum

At 2:00 in the afternoon, they show two movies at the library – one about the Iditarod trail, the historical trail that starts in Seward. I only knew of the dog race but this gives you the historical origins. The other film is about the 1964 world’s second strongest earthquake on record. Seward had devastating tsunami and fires, and this film interviews some of the people that were there on that day.

Go Hiking – From Easy Walks to Serious Hikes

There’s a foot race each year to race to the top of Mount Marathon but if you want something easier, there is a really pleasant walk along the waterfront, which is part of the historic Iditarod trail.

Watch the Sea Otters

Seward is one of the best places in the state to view Sea Otters from the shore. A great place to view them are near the city tenting campground, near the children’s playground.

Check out the Exit Glacier

The Exit Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the state, and part of the Kenai Fjords National Park. It’s about a 10 mile drive plus a one hour hike to get to the glacier and if you’re not up for hiking, there are a couple of great viewpoints from the road.

Hit a Dive Bar

One of the best things to do in Seward is visit one of the dive bars, like the Pit on the outskirts and the Yukon Bar in the heart of downtown. They have cheap drinks and you might be sitting next to a fisherman.

Where to Stay in Seward

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Since Seward is a frequent passenger cruise terminus, there are lots of hotel rooms in town, as well as B&Bs. Most hotels are concentrated near the harbor, the departure place for the wildlife and glacier cruises, or the downtown area, home of the Alaska Sealife Center. But Seward is quite small so it is possible to walk between the harbor or downtown, or catch a shuttle. (Check Rates and Availability in Seward). If you’re camping, most people camp at one of the municipal sites, many of them right on the water. There are multiple municipal campsites that stretch from the harbor to the Sealife Center.

Alaska, Dive Bars, Hiking, National Park, Sea Otters, Seal, Seward, USA, USA National Parks

Sep 07

Kenai Fjords Tours Northwestern Tour (Wildlife + Glaciers = Fun)

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Wildlife

Kenai Fjords Tours in Seward, Alaska has multiple boats and multiple tours that visit Kenai Fjords National Park and surrounding areas. Their longest tour is the Kenai Fjords Tours Northwestern Tour. I arrived into Seward, Alaska on a Thursday morning at 7:40 am since I had been camping at the Turnagain pass and the cold temps had awakened me early. I pulled into the offices of Kenai Fjords Tours, inquiring about tours for the upcoming days. There are two major Wildlife and Glacier cruise companies out of Seward, both highly rated, but I had heard several recommendations in for Kenai Fjords Tours.

The girl at the welcome desk was friendly and helped provide advice. She looked at the weather forecast and saw today was to be beautiful with rain the following two days so that settled it! I booked it on the spot and quickly scrambled to move my car over to the free long-term lot provided by Kenai Fjords Tours and packed all my warm clothes for the day.

If you can afford it, please do a wildlife and glacier cruise from Seward – it was the highlight of my 3-night stay in this cute coastal town. This post contains affiliate links. This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.

Kenai Fjords Tours Northwestern Tour Start – Breakfast

We boarded the boat about ½ hour before departure and the first thing I noticed was the smell of cinnamon rolls. Shortly after departure, they announced we should come down to the kitchen to get our included small breakfast – a fresh mini cinnamon roll, yogurt, and juice. Coffee wasn’t included with this cruise, but I had purchased the souvenir cup for $8 that gave me all the coffee, tea, hot cocoa, and fountain soda that I cared to drink. With a 9 hour tour, it was nice to have unlimited hot drinks!

Puffins & Other Sea Birds

I had seen a few puffins during my glacier and wildlife cruise in Valdez, but there were so many puffins on the Northwestern Glacier tour! There were also Auks and Murres, the northern hemisphere birds that are most like the penguin.

Water Mammals

We had several opportunities to view water mammals that include Sea Otter, Harbor Seals, and Steller Sea Lions. All these animals are amusing to watch.

The Northwestern Glacier

We saw several glaciers along the way, but the highlight was getting up close to the Northwestern Glacier. I am sad to report that this glacier is only a tidal glacier (one ending in the ocean) by a small bit… it is retreating so it will only be a few years until it is a hanging glacier, one that hangs above. But, being that it’s still a tidal glacier, it was exciting to see it calving into the ocean. Unlike the Columbia Glacier in Valdez, there were few icebergs at the Northwestern Glacier.

Lunch

After visiting the glacier, it’s time for lunch – a wrap, chips, and granola bar. And before you get back to port, fresh baked cookies!

Other Scenery

The whole day is packed with scenery, and it was a gorgeous day at that. Curiously, in the morning as we left, there was a cloud at the top of each peak that looked like steam from a volcano. We also got right under a high waterfall for great photo opportunities.

Orcas & Whales

The highlight for me was watching a pod of Orcas. The captain got a message that more than an hour prior, there were Orcas out in open water. We deviated course to get there and for awhile searched in rough waves in vain. But then we saw one, and another, and another. A young one breached several time. This was better than the lazy Orcas I saw in Port McNeill, BC a couple years ago. We also heard there were humpbacks in the area, but our time was short. We did, however, get to see a flip of a whale tale, or fluke, before we went back to port.

Tips for Kenai Fjords Tours

If you want to spend any significant time outdoors, pack warm clothes, even on a seemingly warm and sunny day. I recommend you have long pants, sweatshirt, windbreaking jacket, hat that will cover your ears, neck wrap or buff, and gloved (the cheap stretchy ones are fine).

There is a 10% discount if you book online. As I made a last minute booking, I obviously wasn’t booking online, but I asked about the discount and they gave it to me! Score, as this saves around $20 off the price.

Where to Stay in Seward

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Alaska, Kenai Fjords National Park, Kenai Peninsula, Orcas, Pufins, Sea Lions, Seal, Seward, USA, USA National Parks, Wildlife

Sep 04

A Day at Kennecott Copper Mine and the Root Glacier

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Unique Experiences

Kennecott Copper is a business that still exists today, thanks to profit of $100 million earned from copper mining at the Kennecott Copper Mine in Alaska, now part of Wrangell St. Elias National Park. I spent a day in the McCarthy and Kennecott area, enjoying a Kennecott Copper Mill Tour and a hike to and walk on the Root Glacier. This post contains affiliate links. This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.

Fun Facts about Wrangell St. Elias National Park

It’s one of the newest National Parks, only established in 1980
Has a single glacier bigger than Rhode Island!
Has 9 of the 16 highest peaks in North America
Highest coastal mountain range in the world.
The park land is a mix of private, state of Alaska, native, National reserve, and National Park, due to grandfathering of land
There is no entry fee or passes required to visit this national park. There is, however, admission fees for various tours, rafting, and glacier tours in this particular national park.
The Copper Mill and other buildings are part of Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark.

Getting to Kennecott

Getting to Kennecott involves traversing a long, dead-end road (much like most roads in Alaska). The first half of the road is good and paved to the hamlet of Chitina. The second half is a mostly gravel road to a footbridge just short of McCarthy. How bad is the road to McCarthy? It’s many miles of washboard gravel. Much of the road was built on an old railroad track and it’s said that each time there is maintenance/grating done, old spikes from the railroad surface and it’s possible to get some busted tires. While I didn’t have any flat tires, I met a couple in a rental car that had a non-repairable flat at the McCarthy footbridge. I didn’t mind this grated drive so much going in but it got really old on the return drive!

Insider tip: before setting off on the gravel part, stop into the Ranger’s Station at Chitina. They have a CD that describes points of interest between Chitina and McCarthy.

Parking at McCarthy – Wrangell St. Elias National Park

You cannot drive all the way to the village of McCarthy or Kennecott. If bringing your own vehicle, you must park before a footbridge and either walk or take the shuttle to Kennecott. The lot closest to the footbridge charges $10 a day, but if you’re willing to walk a quarter mile, there are some lots further up that are free for day use or $5 for overnight.

Kennecott Shuttle Bus

It costs $15 for the round-trip shuttle bus ride from either the footbridge or McCarthy. The ride is only 5 miles each way. I considered the walk, but the trail/road doesn’t seem very scenic and there’s a fair amount of traffic on the dusty road (shuttles + shuttles for the tour companies and hotel at Kennecott).

Kennecott Copper Mill Tour

The Kennecott Copper Mill is one of the largest wooden buildings in the USA. It’s 14 stories high and at over 100 years old, it’s decaying rapidly, although the parks service is doing what they can to preserve it. A concessionaire runs the mill tour and it’s $28 for a 2-hour tour to places that are only reachable by the tour. While some buildings are open to any visitor of the national park, you must take this tour to visit the interior of the mill, the floor of the powerhouse, and the ammonium leaching building. I figure the mill is deteriorating so fast, it will eventually be inaccessible to the public, so it was worth the visit now.

Root Glacier

The Root Glacier is a newer glacier, and it’s white/blue ice merges with the larger, dirt covered Kennecott Glacier about 2.5 miles up from the Kennecott Mill area. The 5-mile round trip hike is pretty easy but I recommend bringing bear spray – there were two fresh piles of bear scat on the trail.

Can You Walk on Root Glacier Without a Tour?

Yes, you can walk on Root Glacier without a tour! This is one of only a couple glaciers you can still walk on in the state of Alaska. Most of the more road-accessible glaciers, like the Worthington Glacier on the road to Valdez, have retreated so much it’s no longer possible to walk on them. But glaciers are slippery and dangerous, so don’t venture out too far without a guide, and don’t get anywhere near a crevasse or water draining into a hole (someone called this the “blue hole of death” as you will die if you fall in one and they won’t find your body until the glacier melts). I also recommend you have Hiking Poles and Crampons or micro-spikes on your shoes or boots. It’s nearly impossible to walk on a glacier without these. Insider tip – bring this gear with you, crampons bought in Alaska will cost 3x what you will pay online.

Would you walk on this? Leave your comments below.

Where to Eat in Kennecott

There are a couple places to eat up at Kennecott. The restaurant in the Kennicott Glacier Lodge is highly recommended. If you can visit at dinner time, they have a fixed menu. Lunch is ala carte. There’s also the Meatza food truck that had some interesting offerings – the special was pan fried mac and cheese with reindeer sausage.

Where to Stay in Kennecott

Due to the length of time to drive out to McCarthy and Kennecott, most people spend 1-2 nights in the area. Many people camp near the footbridge, or stay in McCarthy (Check Rates and Availability) but it’s possible to stay overnight at one of the inns in Kennecott.

Aug 30

Best Things to do in Valdez, Alaska and why it’s my favorite town in Alaska.

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Wildlife

On my roadtrip to Alaska, I spent about 4 weeks in the state, and I have to say that Valdez was my favorite city (town). And driving around and talking to other tourists, any of them that had been to Valdez also said it was their favorite. I will never forget the first time I drove into Valdez during the early morning, with the sun shining but fog on the sea, and Sea Lions and Sea Otters swimming about as silver salmon are jumping and Bald Eagles are searching for breakfast in the mud flats. These are the best things to do in Valdez.

Driving to Valdez, Alaska

Unless you’re visiting McCarthy and Kennecott area of Wrangell St. Elias National Park, you will find that the driving to Valdez, AK will take you 117 miles out of your way than anywhere else in Alaska. At the junction of Highways 1 and 4, the Glenn and Richardson highways, you will continue the Richardson Highway to the oil pipeline terminus of Valdez, AK. This is one of the best drives in the state of Alaska. The highlights of the drive include the Worthington Glacier and magnificent waterfalls in Keystone Canyon.

Sunset view after 10 pm as I was driving into Valdez

Worthington Glacier

This retreating glacier creates a picture postcard view as you come around the bend of the Richardson Highway. There’s a state-run park to visit the glacier, including a hike to the base or even above the glacier. Parking is $5 and there’s no camping, although it is possible to boondock camp to the west of the glacier on one of the many pull outs with incredible views of Thompson Pass.

Waterfalls

Valdez is famous for its waterfalls, and two of the most spectacular ones can be seen from the Richardson Highway as you drive through Keystone Canyon on your way to Valdez – Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls. Both falls have an area you can pull off the highway to get great photos.

A Cruise to the Columbia Glacier

If you can afford it, the one of the best things to do in Valdez is a Glacier Cruise. There are two very highly recommended wildlife and glacier cruise companies in the town of Valdez, and based on taking several glacier cruises around Alaska, I think these companies offer the best value. Read here about my day out on the Lu-Lu Belle boat to view sea birds, wildlife, and the incredible Columbia Glacier.

Columbia Glacier – so massive you can’t get it all in one shot

Valdez Glacier & Iceberg Lake

The namesake glacier of Valdez is retreating, and is now barely visible from the town. You can take the airport road, paved half way but keep on going on the gravel to the informal recreation area at a lake with small icebergs floating until they finally get captured by the current of the Valdez Glacier creek and they float out towards the Prince William Sound.

Solomon Gulch Salmon Hatchery

A great free activity is a vist to the Solomon Gulch Hatchery. There’s a self-guided tour but the real highlight is the wildlife. During my visit in mid July, the gates to the stream weren’t open yet, so there were 1000’s of salmon swarming to swim up the stream. And several Steller Sea Lions and Sea Otters were taking the advantage to pick them off one by one. If you visit later in the season, it’s possible to sea Black and Brown (Coastal Grizzly) Bears catching salmon as well. Insider tip: visit at high tide, this is when you can see the Sea Lions and Sea Otters out hunting.

Another Insider tip: there’s a hike nearby the hatchery that goes up to Solomon Lake, where the hatchery waters originate but I had met several people who said to not do that hike – unless you solely want to do it for exercise. It was difficult and without the same great views you get from driving around.

So many salmon as Solomon Gulch Hatchery

Sea Lions hunting salmon, if you look carefully, you will see the Sea Lion in the background has one in his mouth.

Valdez Museum & Annex

The local museum is a nice collection of historical artifacts and art. It’s an especially good thing to visit if you happen to be in Valdez on a rainy day. Insider tip: Make sure you watch the video about the 1964 earthquake and make sure you visit the so called “Annex” near the ferry port which has a scale replica of the town prior to the earthquake.

Valdez Old Town and Cemetery

There isn’t much left of Valdez Old Town – the town prior to the 1964 earthquake. The 1964 earthquake has been the world’s second strongest recorded earthquake at 9.2 on the Richter Scale. The old town area was deemed to be unstable so the entire town was moved to the current location. All that remains now is a few slabs. You can pick up a map of old town at the Valdez Museum. Not far from the Old Town is a cemetery. There are a few Russian graves here, but the reason to stop is to see the carved marble bear, with real bear teeth.

See the Rabbits!

There are loads of feral rabbits around Valdez. They started as some pets that got loose or released and they multiplied. You can see them all around town and even at the harbor. They come in all domestic rabbit colors – white, brown, black and everything in between.

Kayaking

There are a couple companies in town that will take you kayaking, in the harbor, at Columbia Glacier, or even in the iceberg lake of Valdez Glacier. I was tempted to buy an inflatable kayak to bring on my trip to Alaska, but ultimately decided there wasn’t enough room in my Ford Transit Connect Camper Van, but seeing this calm lake, made me so wish I had a kayak to paddle around. Would have been a once in a lifetime chance to paddle with icebergs for free! Insider tip: bring your own Inflatable Kayak or SUP but be careful – a fall into the icy water could cause immediate hypothermia. If you’re not experienced, it’s best to go with one of the adventure companies. Especially stay away from the glacier and any icebergs that might calve – these 3 people found out the hard way in 2019.

Valdez Harbor

Unlike some of the other harbor towns of Alaska, Valdez has plenty of free parking around, with 48 hours of free parking! The harbor is very pleasant with lots of places to sit or stand and watch the views of mountains or ships coming or going. If you’re lucky, you might spot a Sea Otter having fun in the harbor. Insider tip: If you’re camping and in need of a shower, $4 will get you a 12 minute shower. Make sure you go to the new harbor bathrooms, located in the new part of the small boat harbor – brand new, spacious, clean, and private.

Peter Pan Cannery

You can visit the shop of the Peter Pan Cannery, the largest cannery in Valdez. They have fresh fish and seafood as well as canned salmon, snacks, and Peter Pan merchandise.

Catch a Movie at the Civic Center Cinema

I like visiting small town cinemas. Sure, they’re not IMAX megaplexes, but they’re cheap and it’s fun to check out a new theater. The Valdez movie theater happens to be located in the Civic Center. I didn’t get a chance to go to a movie on this trip because I was busy doing all the other fun things to do in Valdez, but the cinema is a good evening or rainy day activity in Valdez.

Where to stay in Valdez

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Most people camp in Valdez, there are several RV campgrounds and boondocking sights around. In fact, Valdez is home to some of my favorite free places to camp in Alaska. The city run Valdez Glacier Campground has lots of spots and hot showers included for $20 a spot. But there are also a couple of nice hotels around town if you’re not camping (Check Rates and Availability of Hotels and Motels in Valdez).

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Alaska, Boating, Glacier, Glaciers, Harbor, Kayaking, Rabbits, Salmon, Sea Lions, Sea Otters, USA, wateralls, Waterfall, Wildlife

Aug 25

A Day out on the Lu-Lu Belle – The Best Valdez Glacier Cruise

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Unique Experiences, Wildlife

One of my best day trips ever was a Columbia Glacier tour with Lu-Lu Belle Glacier Wildlife Cruises out of the port town of Valdez, Alaska. The tours are promised to be 7 or more hours, and our tour clocked in at over 9 hours! For many tourists, this is the best Valdez glacier cruise, or maybe even the best wildlife and glacier cruise in the state of Alaska.

The Lu-Lu Belle

The Lu-Lu Belle is a beautiful custom-made wooden ship with only 40 passengers. There’s lots of room to sprawl out – on the front, back, inside or on the upper deck or even in the comfortable and very warm Captain’s wheelhouse. The boat is available for private booking but most days is used for a Valdez Glacier Cruise to Columbia Glacier.

A Foggy Start

The morning was quite cloudy and foggy and I was hoping the fog would lift by our relatively late Valdez glacier cruise 11 am departure time. But to my dismay, we sailed out of port with clouds and fog all around us and only occasional peeks at the various peaks around us. The captain saw a group of Sea Otters sleeping in the distance and approached them, commenting “I better be careful, it’s foggy and I might be getting too close to the oil terminal”.

Hunted by the Coast Guard

Well, a few minutes later, a Coast Guard boat approached us with flashing lights going. It seems that in the fog we drifted into the imaginary line that surrounds the Oil Pipeline Terminal in Valdez (this is the pipeline that starts in Prudhoe Bay. The oil is stored in huge drums in Valdez and then loaded onto tanker ships). We were let off with a warning but it added some excitement to our trip!

Waterfalls

There are a couple beautiful waterfalls on the way from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. We had nice views despite the fog. But not much later, the clouds and fog began to lift…

Water Spout

Captain Fred told us to look for the white markings of a puffin as he inched us further and further into a cove. But it was a trick! Inside this cove was a natural waterspout. He had us looking high when we should have been looking low. His boat maneuvering skills are excellent.

Wildlife Galore

We saw so many Sea Otters and Stellar Sea Lions on this Columbia Glacier tour! Sea Otters are such amazing creatures and so cute! Fun fact: a group of Sea Otters is called a “raft” of Sea Otters. We saw a few puffins, but not as many as I saw on my wildlife cruise from Seward.

See Local Fishing Practices

We pulled over to a fishing boat to watch them pull in their net full of salmon (look carefully at this photo to see the fish). They utilize a method that uses a larger ship and a dinghy that expands the net. A pole is used to keep the fish from escaping the net. The captain thanked the fishing boat guys by giving them a ziploc bag of fresh brownies.

Dall’s Porpoise

They occasionally encounter Humpback whales or Orcas in the Prince William Sound, but we didn’t see either of these. We did, however, see a group of Dall’s Porpoises. As we approached, I was lucky to be standing on the bow of the ship, because one of the porpoises swam along with the front of the ship.

Approaching the Glacier – Icebergs Ahead!

There were icebergs everywhere as we crept up the fjord/valley towards the Columbia Glacier. Some were the size of a loaf of bread, but others were the size of cars and larger (and consider 90% of an iceberg is below the surface). Lots of the flatter icebergs were inhabited by Sea Otters. Once the boat got too close, they jumped in the water. The captain would regularly announce the water depth and how close we were to the glacier – we seemed close but he was still announcing 3 or 4 miles away.

The Columbia Glacier

The Columbia Glacier is a tidewater type of glacier and is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world. Therefore, a high activity of calving, or having chunks fall off into the sea. We heard several cracks and saw some new icebergs being formed.

How Long will the Columbia Glacier Continue to Reach the Sea?

Captain Fred indicated where the Columbia Glacier reached when he first took tourists to the Columbia Glacier and it has retreated by MILES. Looking at the Columbia Glacier today, you can see the mountains and valley behind, it may not be that many more years before Columbia no longer reaches the sea and is considered a hanging glacier.

Should You Book the Lu-Lu Belle in Advance?

If you want to guarantee a spot, you should book in advance. When I arrived into Valdez, they only had room on the tour the next day, with the next four days after that being totally booked. If Lu-Lu Belle is full, you can try at the larger Stan Stevens tours, an alternative Valdez Glacier Cruise which does up to two tours daily to the Columbia or Meares Glaciers on larger boats.

Lu-Lu Belle Review

Wow! What can I say? The Lu-Lu Belle was a true highlight on my trip to Alaska. Captain Fred has been doing the trips for 20 years and clearly loves his job and loves giving the passengers a good time. While Lu Lu Belle doesn’t provide lunch on their tour, they do have a reasonably priced snack bar with chili, nachos, hot dogs, popcorn, fresh baked muffins and brownies, and more. I couldn’t pass up having a hot coffee for $1.25 after visiting the glacier. At $145 for a 9 hour tour, this is one of the best valued wildlife and glacier tours in the state of Alaska. As a bonus, for free the crew will take your picture at the glacier and they have Santa Hats and “Merry Christmas” signs if you want to use your photo as your Christmas card.

Where to stay in Valdez

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Most people camp in Valdez, there are several RV campgrounds and boondocking sights around. But there are also a couple of nice hotels around town, I especially like near the harbor. (Check Rates and Availability).

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Alaska, Big Fish, Birding, Birds, Cruising, Glacier, Glaciers, Icebergs, Sea Otters, USA, Valdez
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Aug 18

Deadman Lake Campground and Lakeview Campground (Two Incredible Free Campgrounds in Alaska)

By thehotflashpacker@gmail.com in Scenery, Van Camping, Wildlife

When I was in Hyder, Alaska on the far southeast panhandle, I met some really nice people at the top of Salmon Glacier. I shared some tips on Driving the Cassiar Highway route south and they shared some great tips on visiting Alaska. One tip they said was to make sure I camped at Deadman Lake Campground or Lakeview Campground in the Teltin National Wildlife Refuge. This was one of the nicest campgrounds on my trip and in the morning, I even got to canoe on the Deadman Lake for free! These two campgrounds are the best kept secret in Alaska – neither campground was full in my July visit.

Deadman Lake Campground

Deadman Lake Campground is on the Alaska Highway, about halfway between Tok, AK and the Alaska/Yukon border. The address is technically Northway, AK. This campground is free (although donations are accepted) and there is even free firewood, as long as there is no fire ban (like there was on my visit). There are 15 shaded spots on a loop road and a couple very clean pit toilets thanks to an awesome camp host on site.

Sittin’ on the Dock at Deadman Lake

Deadman Lake has a floating dock and it seemed the other campers were staying around their spots, but I took the opportunity to bring my captain’s chair out to sit on the dock and enjoy the breeze. I had heard that Alaska was horrendous for mosquitoes but besides a very buggy night near Barkerville, BC, I had been pretty lucky to avoid mosquitoes on this trip. Deadman Lake, especially in the breeze, had very few bugs. I didn’t even need bug spray. But it was later in the night when things go really magical at Deadman Lake, as the sun was setting, the lake was so calm, and the wolves were howling.

Deadman Lake Canoes

If Deadman Lake Campground isn’t already so great, it get’s even better – there are FREE Canoes to take out on the lake. Six canoes (including one smaller canoe for a single person), paddles, and life jackets are down by the lake for anyone to use. It’s best to use these when it’s not too windy, the lake is most calm in the morning.

Rumor was that some teenagers had purposely sunk the canoes so there were talks of taking them away, but for now, there are free canoes to use!

Lakeview Campground

Deadman Lake has a sister campground only about 7 miles to the north on Yarger Lake called Lakeview Campground. Like Deadman Lake, the camp is free, with pit toilets and free firewood. This campground has a short trail with a hide to watch birds on the north end of Yarger Lake. Although I didn’t spend the night there, I had a nice picnic lunch at the shore of the lake.

This could be your spot at Lakeview Campground

In the bird hide at Yarger Lake, Lakeview Campground

Not camping?

This post contains affiliate links. This website earns a small commission for items purchased through these links with no additional cost to you.

Even if you’re not camping at Deadman Lake Campground or Lakeview Campground in Teltin National Wildlife Refure, you can still picnic, walk the trails in the refuge, and use the free canoes! Then book a place in nearby Tok, AK (Check Rates and Availability) Tok is a hub for the east part of the state and has reasonably priced gas a groceries.

Are you traveling to Alaska? The Alaska Milepost Guidebook is a necessity!

Check out my list of favorite free campgrounds in Alaska.

Alaska, Camping, free camping, free stuff, Lakes, Van Camping

A Fun Day on Riverboat Discovery and Gold Dredge 8 in Fairbanks, Alaska

Anchorage to Whittier, Alaska (A Day Trip Via the Whittier Tunnel)

Russian Orthodox Churches on Kenai Peninsula

Anchorage to Homer Driving (Driving the Sterling Highway and What to Do)

Best Things to Do in Seward, Alaska

Kenai Fjords Tours Northwestern Tour (Wildlife + Glaciers = Fun)

A Day at Kennecott Copper Mine and the Root Glacier

Best Things to do in Valdez, Alaska and why it’s my favorite town in Alaska.

A Day out on the Lu-Lu Belle – The Best Valdez Glacier Cruise

Deadman Lake Campground and Lakeview Campground (Two Incredible Free Campgrounds in Alaska)

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